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Getting ready to rewire my 78 and would like to get around butt connectors on everything. Can you buy the factory crimp connectors for the ignition switch, headlight switch and wiper switch? If so, which crimp tool would work the best?
I bought the EZ wire kit and it's set up for GM stuff. Worst case scenario I guess I could use a GM ignition switch. I'd love to hear your ideas on the best way to go about this.
Thanks Mike. I'm ordering the stuff to do this right now. I've got a Klein Tools Crimper with open barrel jaws coming. I need to order the open barrel fittings and I'm not sure these are the right ones. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-bm100/overview/
Ford is notorious for using special, odd fittings for their wire terminals. That's a picture of a couple of them that are used in the A/C system wiring.
There are a lot of the male and female spade terminals used in the wiring harness though. While some different blade widths are used, 1/4" is probably the most common. That's what the brass one in the picture is.
It looks like the one you're looking at covers from 12-18 ga which is good.
They also have the little locking tabs that locks them in the plastic shell.
I realize that there is an allure of making things appear factory fresh, but as any car electronics enthusiast will tell you, solder and shrink wrap is better then any crimped connection.
I realize that there is an allure of making things appear factory fresh, but as any car electronics enthusiast will tell you, solder and shrink wrap is better then any crimped connection.
You don't have this luxury when interfacing to actual components, like spade terminals on the back of an ignition switch. In these instances, open-barrel crimp terminals are more than adequate. There's nothing to be gained by soldering on top of the closed crimp, if that's what you meant. That can hurt more than it helps in some instances.
Furthermore, soldering is not an end-all solution. There are many instances where crimping is actually superior (like battery cables) because it can withstand vibration and leverage better than a soldered connection.
The OP specifically referenced "getting around butt end connectors". Obviously there are examples where crimps are necessary, but in a splice, solder/shrink is a better choice.
Trying to get around soldering as well. I appreciate your opinions on it which is why I asked. I really would like to find a source for the open barrel connectors. Anybody got one? I'll need them for the wiper switch, headlight switch, ignition, steering column and gauge cluster.
Those places have almost always had whatever sort of strange terminal end I need for automotive stuff....although Waytek seems to have gone all Obamacare on me for tonight.
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