Disassemlbing tailgate
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Disassemlbing tailgate
You don't really have to "disassemble" it - just pull the access panel from the inside (if you have carpet, remove that first) and look inside. If your glass won't go down, you're lucky because it's in the way when you open the t/g. I used to have a bunch of pics online, but the site dumped 'em last weekend.
Use a 12V test light and the Haynes wiring diagrams to find out where the power stops. If you find the round 4-pin connector just inside the L frame rail at the back bumper, you should have ground on the 2 purple wires (P/LG & P/LB) and 12V at all times to the Bk/Wh wire. With the key on, one of the purple wires should go hot (12V) when you operate the dash switch.
Use a 12V test light and the Haynes wiring diagrams to find out where the power stops. If you find the round 4-pin connector just inside the L frame rail at the back bumper, you should have ground on the 2 purple wires (P/LG & P/LB) and 12V at all times to the Bk/Wh wire. With the key on, one of the purple wires should go hot (12V) when you operate the dash switch.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: stafford VA
Disassemlbing tailgate
the access panel is off. but the wires are everywhere. the glass is down so most of the wires i cant reach(im a bigger guy) is there a way to take it even more apart so i can fix the wires?
Tim
Tim
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Disassemlbing tailgate
Unfortunately, no the acess panel is the only way into the "guts" of the T-gate. If you can get the window to go UP once the gate is open and SUPPORT THE GLASS, there is a LOT more room to vaneuver in there.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Disassemlbing tailgate
If you reach behind the center divider, you should feel a rod running straight down. Make sure it's pushed all the way down, and MAKE REALLY SURE the glass is NOT still in the groove of the camper shell, then pull the handle and open the t/g. That should make it a lot easier to work on.
If you can pull the 4 nuts that hold the glass on its tracks, you can pull it out of the way.
Whaddaya mean: "the wires are everywhere"? Someone ransacked the t/g wiring and spread them out all over inside it?
If you can pull the 4 nuts that hold the glass on its tracks, you can pull it out of the way.
Whaddaya mean: "the wires are everywhere"? Someone ransacked the t/g wiring and spread them out all over inside it?
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: stafford VA
Disassemlbing tailgate
wires are everywhere----theres like 4 connectors connected.
1. window motor
2. r side latch
3. left side latch
4. defrost
basicall theres wires coming off those but they lead to nowhere.
In theory if i unbolt the window from the regulator i should be able to just push it up right?
Thanks
Tim
1. window motor
2. r side latch
3. left side latch
4. defrost
basicall theres wires coming off those but they lead to nowhere.
In theory if i unbolt the window from the regulator i should be able to just push it up right?
Thanks
Tim
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: stafford VA
Disassemlbing tailgate
Thanks for the help guys....i got it to work....kinda. bassically when i said the wires were a mess, 2 of the wires were the power for the the motor. so we(me and a brother) hooked up a battery charger nd clipped it on. up it went. to bring it down, we reversed it. ghetto but it worked.
as i said, thank yous for the help.
Tim
as i said, thank yous for the help.
Tim
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Disassemlbing tailgate
If the switch in the t/g wouldn't operate it, then the problem is most likely that the driver's latch isn't closing fully, which is where the safety interlock switch is. To test, roll the glass down, open the t/g, then close the driver's latch by hand - BOTH parts. Then see if either switch works. If it does, put the glass back down and use the inside handle to open the latch, and get a T-50 bit to reset the strike bolt ~1/16" rearward.
If it's not the interlock, then it's the dash switch. That's where the motor has to ground thru regardless of which switch you use.
If it was a power problem (a blown fuse), then one of the switches would work.
If it's not the interlock, then it's the dash switch. That's where the motor has to ground thru regardless of which switch you use.
If it was a power problem (a blown fuse), then one of the switches would work.
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