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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 11:32 AM
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Rear End Questions

Quick back story, we recently had a large amount of snow out here in the hills, I'm guessing around 2 feet worth. Due to this, and the fact that I am the only one of my friends with a truck with reliable 4 wheel squeal I had many opportunities to get the tires spinning.

Should the rear end lock both tires together after one has spun a bit? I do have the limited slip rear end so I believe thats what should happen. How about the front end? They should still spin independently, correct?

Thanks, Baatzy
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 12:02 PM
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Based on the year of your truck, yours is probably like mine and worn out, besides the Ford clutch plate limited slips are not known to be very tight anyway. Probably due for a rebuild or better yet an upgrade.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 12:20 PM
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That's kind of what I was thinking. I've got play in my driveline somewhere, and from what I can tell its coming from the rear end.

What are the recommendations for upgrades? Is there a "lock on command" type rear end a guy could get? Do the newer electronic diffs in the SD's operate that way.....

I do a lot of on the highway driving for school, yet often get in the mud when I'm home on the farm so I would like something that is practical for both.

THanks,

Baatzy
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 12:53 PM
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lots of locking diff. options air locker is one option,but you will need a onboard compressor.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Baatzy
That's kind of what I was thinking. I've got play in my driveline somewhere, and from what I can tell its coming from the rear end.

What are the recommendations for upgrades? Is there a "lock on command" type rear end a guy could get? Do the newer electronic diffs in the SD's operate that way.....

I do a lot of on the highway driving for school, yet often get in the mud when I'm home on the farm so I would like something that is practical for both.

THanks,

Baatzy
Just an assumption but when in school, money is probably tight?

Not abnormal for LS rear ends, especially worn ones, to allow your wheels to spins slightly different when one side is unweighted.

Your fronts, as independent, will both do their own thing.

If it's that noticeable and bothers you, just repair the existing, replacing your clutch plates.

Not a big deal and Much cheaper way if necessary.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 04:02 PM
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I wouldn't mind doing the clutch plates, but is there a cheap option to care of the slop in the rear end? I have no way to actually measure the gears, but I know with the tires in the air they will spin an inch to inch and a half either way before everything grabs and holds the tires still. If I can't take care of the slop I do not want to fix the clutch plates because every time I get on the pedal or left off the truck has a lurch to it, this is terribly annoying because it happens all the time, especially with my 6 speed.

My second option is looking for a good "on command" locking type axle but I have no experience with these so I don't know what works and what doesn't.

Thanks

Baatzy
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 06:44 PM
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If your talking about rotation slop at the tire that is normal. If you go with something like an Air Locker you are looking at a grand ($1000) not counting labor. I am partial to the Detroit Eaton Truetrac, no clutches to wear out, and that is a about $500 plus labor. I say labor because it sounds like you don't know how to set up gears. A good diff guy can rebuild yours, as there are tricks to making them better and that, like said would be the least expensive way.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 08:06 PM
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Thanks guys, I've been researching for a bit. Haven't found anything that quite satisfies me yet. I'll have to look into rebuilding my rear end, but I should do some testing to find where my slop is coming from for sure. Maybe once the snow all melts....

How difficult would working on a rear end be? I am fairly mechanically inclined, and wouldn't mind learning, but I've only got so much time I can dedicate between work and school.

Thanks for the input

Baatzy
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 08:20 PM
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Does the tag say LS? Jack up the rear axle so both wheels are off the ground. With the trans in neutral, turn a rear wheel. Do they both turn the same direction? If you put it in gear and turn a rear wheel, if you can, do they turn different directions? They should both turn the same way, if it is LS. May sure it has the right oil with the right amount of friction modifier. Do a search on here for friction modifier and you will find lots on this subject. I would do this first thing. Good luck.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Baatzy
How difficult would working on a rear end be? I am fairly mechanically inclined, and wouldn't mind learning, but I've only got so much time I can dedicate between work and school.

Thanks for the input

Baatzy
a GREAT write-up...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ferential.html
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 11:10 PM
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For that "let off, back on" slop, try greasing the splines in the slip joint in the drive shaft.

Very common "feel", and known cure.

Ford has some special, hi-zoot Teflon grease for it, aqua-marine in color.

Read: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-grease.html

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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 10:07 AM
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I think I have the same problem. Have 150000 miles on truck know with no desire to trade or sell it. Had the rear end rebuilt at 95000 miles. I am not sure what the mechanic did. It roared some then eased off. Then I found out my limited slip isn't working. Not sure if the mechanic used the friction additive. If not is it worth adding it now? I seemed to get more from this web site on how to fix my truck more than the manuals. And forget going to a garage to get questions. I hope our problems are easy to fix.

Thanks

Steve
 
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 09:28 AM
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xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, please ignore. Wrong forum.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 12:14 PM
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Thanks for the links, I think for now I will have to try the greasing. I changed my tranny, transfer case and rear end fluids about 2 weeks ago. I thought I added enough of the additive but I'm not sure. I will probably be redoing the changes soon because both tranny and transfer case fluids looked pretty tough when I drained them and I noticed that I put 85-140 in instead of 75-140 for the rear end. I shouldn't have blindly listened to the O'reilly's guy when he said "This one is good." Oh well.

I'd like to upgrade to electronic or air lockers but for now I need to hunt down a power loss I thought I'd taken care of.

Thanks again,

Baatzy
 
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 02:28 PM
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As long as the gear oil you put in the rear differential was SYNTHETIC, I suspect the small difference in viscosity won't "amount to a hill of beans".

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