Question on soldering practices/methods
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,403
Likes: 4
From: Charlestown, RI
As far as Scotch Locks having some sort of use, I agree. I used them when I installed my trans temp gauge, when I had to tap into constant power, key on power (both at the radio harness), and parking lights. I used them because they were the easiest solution, and being inside the cab and behind the dash, there's little chance of them failing. I did, however, wrap them with electrical tape, so they don't open up.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
From: SE WI
I very much dislike Scotch Locks as well. Had some issues with them 19 years ago, and haven't used them since.
Get some wire strippers like these:
And you shouldn't need to use Scotch Locks at all. These will open up a stripped spot to tap into a wire. Probably need the liquid electrical tape in an out-of-the-cab application, but inside the cab electrical tape should be fine.
Get some wire strippers like these:
And you shouldn't need to use Scotch Locks at all. These will open up a stripped spot to tap into a wire. Probably need the liquid electrical tape in an out-of-the-cab application, but inside the cab electrical tape should be fine.
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 64
Likes: 1
From: boonies, central TEXAS
No need for special tools
I wouldn't worry about getting a special tool unless I had to tap into lines a lot. I do the same thing with normal wire strippers. Just make a cut in the casing and push it back a little. I'm afraid I still follow my practice of joining, flux, soldering, and heat shrinking. Doesn't matter the location. The only time I use wire nuts is for non stranded wire. Maybe you can get away with easier methods, but I always know that I can depend on a soldered connection.
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
They make a shrink connector with the solder built in it. I don't know if they are new, or if I just hadn't seen them before.
I was pretty skeptical when I first saw them, but they actually work pretty well. Just slide one over one wire, make your connection, slide the little solder ring to the middle of your connection and heat with a heat gun.
The heat shrink tube is clear and heavy duty, it shrinks first then a few seconds later the solder melts into the connection. Quick and easy.
You do need a heat gun, and the connectors were kind of expensive. Good for hard to reach areas though.
Napa has them.
I was pretty skeptical when I first saw them, but they actually work pretty well. Just slide one over one wire, make your connection, slide the little solder ring to the middle of your connection and heat with a heat gun.
The heat shrink tube is clear and heavy duty, it shrinks first then a few seconds later the solder melts into the connection. Quick and easy.
You do need a heat gun, and the connectors were kind of expensive. Good for hard to reach areas though.
Napa has them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
I wouldn't worry about getting a special tool unless I had to tap into lines a lot. I do the same thing with normal wire strippers. Just make a cut in the casing and push it back a little. I'm afraid I still follow my practice of joining, flux, soldering, and heat shrinking. Doesn't matter the location. The only time I use wire nuts is for non stranded wire. Maybe you can get away with easier methods, but I always know that I can depend on a soldered connection.
What kind of solder are you using that requires flux? I have always used rosin core solder on wiring and electronics.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
They make a shrink connector with the solder built in it. I don't know if they are new, or if I just hadn't seen them before.
I was pretty skeptical when I first saw them, but they actually work pretty well. Just slide one over one wire, make your connection, slide the little solder ring to the middle of your connection and heat with a heat gun.
The heat shrink tube is clear and heavy duty, it shrinks first then a few seconds later the solder melts into the connection. Quick and easy.
You do need a heat gun, and the connectors were kind of expensive. Good for hard to reach areas though.
Napa has them.
I was pretty skeptical when I first saw them, but they actually work pretty well. Just slide one over one wire, make your connection, slide the little solder ring to the middle of your connection and heat with a heat gun.
The heat shrink tube is clear and heavy duty, it shrinks first then a few seconds later the solder melts into the connection. Quick and easy.
You do need a heat gun, and the connectors were kind of expensive. Good for hard to reach areas though.
Napa has them.
Last edited by broke vet; Oct 8, 2013 at 06:54 AM. Reason: Slow fingers
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 64
Likes: 1
From: boonies, central TEXAS
Electronic silver solder
I use electronic grade solder. Specifically it's designated as silver electronic solder. It has a very low melting point so I don't have to keep the iron on very long and it will completely soak the connection. The main reason I advocate always using flux is because no matter how hard you try, you leave dirt and oil on the wires, flux cleans the wires completely and allows the solder to completely adhere to the wires. For single strand wires, I will use the standard twist, cap, and tape. I'm only pedantic about multi-strand wire. Watch a decent plumber though. Even though they are using rosin core solder they will still flux the ends before they connect copper piping.
The single solution connections that everyone has been talking about sound interesting. I wouldn't use butt connectors though, I would still twist and flux the connection though. Any type of connection will benefit from the fewest connections possible. Adding in connections adds line resistance, there just no way around that. Needless to say, my audio systems look very different from most.
The single solution connections that everyone has been talking about sound interesting. I wouldn't use butt connectors though, I would still twist and flux the connection though. Any type of connection will benefit from the fewest connections possible. Adding in connections adds line resistance, there just no way around that. Needless to say, my audio systems look very different from most.
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 64
Likes: 1
From: boonies, central TEXAS
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