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Oct 4, 2013 | 12:08 PM

68F250"GERTIE"

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Exhaust Manifold

Hello All, I was in the process of trying to fix exhaust leaks on the 68 camper special (both sides). I got the manifolds off last nightwithout snapping any bolts. Problem is they are in bad condition, cracks. I found some replacements online at 1Aauto for 99.85 and free shipping. Does anyone have experience with these manifolds? I don’t need top of the line, but I don’t want to have to do this again for a long time. Thanx

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/exhaust-man...62kAzg#reviews

Oct 4, 2013 | 03:46 PM

JEFFFAFA

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From: Phoenix, Az.

GERTIE. Welcome to FTE!

I have not but I wanted to mention something. If they are both cracked I am guessing you have single exhaust. If this is true the cause may be in your Y-pipe. From hot/cold and expanding and contracting sometimes the Y in the Y-pipe shrinks and closes a tad bit together. Pulling the manifolds towards the block. The tension then makes them crack. I would suggest upgrading to headers and duals but if you stick with new manifolds stretch the y-pipe back out so it mounts easily to the manifolds.

Oct 4, 2013 | 04:42 PM

68F250"GERTIE"

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Thank you JEFFFAFA !

I appreciate your welcome and input, but my truck has a dualexhaust routed over to the passenger side.

Oct 4, 2013 | 04:47 PM

JEFFFAFA

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Read your spark plugs then and don't let it run too lean. A lean mixture can cause the exhaust to be hotter.

Oct 4, 2013 | 05:08 PM

68F250"GERTIE"

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lean

Yes, I think you are right. The engine does run too hot anyway. I guess it’s time to learn about the carb. Hopefully these manifolds from 1A auto are not junk?

Oct 4, 2013 | 05:30 PM

CougarJohn

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From: Cupertino

Any decent machine shop can magnaflux your new cast iron manifolds. It only takes a minute, maybe they will do it for a five-dollar bill. They squirt a strong magnetic field through the iron, sprinkle on filings. The field lines will collect on any crack, even those that you can't see, and the iron filings will pile up. One would hope that the seller would do it but one never knows.
As above, check timing, read plugs. Six degrees advance is the gold standard hereabouts. You may have to rejet the carb to richen.

Oct 4, 2013 | 07:52 PM

68F250"GERTIE"

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Manifold

Thanks for your help guys. I did order the manifolds in question. My timing, wires, points, cap, plugs, and a few other things are all new and set right. Maybe, I’ll try a carburetor rebuild while I’m waiting for them to come in… gives me a chance to learn about how to set the idle and fuel mixture.
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Oct 7, 2013 | 02:24 PM

JEFFFAFA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 68F250"GERTIE"

IMHO you ought to read the plugs before you go into the carb if it's running good.

Oct 7, 2013 | 03:28 PM

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CougarJohn

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From: Cupertino

What engine? What carburetor? Have you looked at the plugs that came out? What color? White is bad.
You can change the idle mixture by diddling the screws at the base but the running mixture will require drilling jets or replacing metering rods. There are no external screws to change high rpm mixture. It requires teardown of the carb.
You got lucky in getting the manifolds off without breaking bolts. Make sure that you put proper anti-sieze compound on the assembly.
Semper Fi

Oct 8, 2013 | 10:43 AM

#11

68F250"GERTIE"

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CougarJohn -more info

The truck is a 360 and the Carb is an Autolite 2100 (pretty sure). When I pulled the plugs it was a bit of a mixed bag. Most part they could have been a little on the white side as if running lean, some looked like they weren’t firing.Would explain why the manifolds looked burnt up around the gaskets.

As far as the Carb I’m not afraid of trying my hand at a rebuild, but you have a point in that I should try to “diddle” the mix first… anyone have a chart on whats what with these?-Thanx

Oct 8, 2013 | 05:14 PM

#12

CougarJohn

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Welcome aboard.
If you have some black plugs and some white, the indication is not carb. If all else is intact the plugs should all read the same if the cause is carb.
I would suggest that you tighten down all intake and carb gaskets, check the vacuum lines for leaks. And ignition wires. And then we go to compression checks. Cheap stuff first.

Oct 10, 2013 | 08:27 PM

#13

68F250"GERTIE"

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anyone know what to do with the area that has the plate? the new manifod has open holes?

Last edited by 68F250"GERTIE"; Oct 10, 2013 at 08:27 PM. Reason: ADD TEXT

Oct 11, 2013 | 05:13 PM

#14

68F250"GERTIE"

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Getting back together

Just bought a bolt figured I’d plug the extra hole with that.

Another question is do I use the two gasket formula sandwiched in there metal sides out? Or do I get some of that copper goop and sandwich (RTV?) that in there as well? These are new manifolds but I do not want to develop any leaks.

Oct 11, 2013 | 07:11 PM

#15

JEFFFAFA

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From: Phoenix, Az.

Metal out and no goop. Put some anti-seize on the threads. Tighten them evenly in steps. Use torque wrench. I found this on Google.

360, 390, 406, 427, 428 FE
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Crossbolts for 406 and 427 40 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs. (53-58 ft.-lbs. for 406 and 427)
Cylinder head bolts 80-90 ft.-lbs. (100-110 ft.-lbs. for 1963-67 427)
Rocker arm shaft bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 32-35 ft.-lbs.
Exhaust manifold 18-24 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 12-15 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs