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coolant bottle question

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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 09:42 AM
  #1  
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coolant bottle question

Hi Guys just a quick question about my coolant bottle. Since I always see people talk a lot about HG failures I noticed this on my 04 F350 after coming back from vacation. Towing a Jeep with a Lance camper to give you the idea of the load I was carrying. There was a white chalky residue all over the top portion, and the coolant reservoir was holding pressure after a month after we got home. I do recall smelling coolant when we stopped at a rest stop near Death Valley and outside temp was around 100. Could this be a HG issue? is there a test I can use to determine if the coolant could have exhaust gases present?

If it is, I think I am throwing in the towel on this truck. I cant stand throwing any more money at it when I barley use it. I don't recall my father in law having this much issues on his Duramax. I guess I should have paid extra for that Dodge.

 
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 09:48 AM
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that link was not working like I had hoped, try this one

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...509610BF9C!114
 
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 09:51 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by tjguy
Hi Guys just a quick question about my coolant bottle. Since I always see people talk a lot about HG failures I noticed this on my 04 F350 after coming back from vacation. Towing a Jeep with a Lance camper to give you the idea of the load I was carrying. There was a white chalky residue all over the top portion, and the coolant reservoir was holding pressure after a month after we got home. I do recall smelling coolant when we stopped at a rest stop near Death Valley and outside temp was around 100. Could this be a HG issue? is there a test I can use to determine if the coolant could have exhaust gases present?

If it is, I think I am throwing in the towel on this truck. I cant stand throwing any more money at it when I barley use it. I don't recall my father in law having this much issues on his Duramax. I guess I should have paid extra for that Dodge.


Check this You Tube video for starters.

 
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 10:26 AM
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Looks like either Green Coolant in there or you have one of the dirtiest cooling systems of any car I have ever seen... You could start with testing the cap and the coolant. If you don't have boil over protection, your coolant can puke. The HG or EGR Cooler test is pretty easy to perform. I used a 30 psi gauge and about 12 feet of 3/8 fuel line with a 3/8 brass tee connected in line with the radiator and degas bottle hose. Start the truck up and have someone rev the engine up while watching the gauge. If the pressure builds rapidly above 20 psi, then you likely have EGR Cooler issues. Next is the HG test...Run the hose out the front of the hood, making sure not to pinch the hose when closing the hood, then run the gauge up to the windshield and tape it to the outside of the windshield and then hold the hose down with one of the wiper blades. I put mine on the outside of the truck, some do the inside. I didn't want the possibility of coolant blowing all inside the cab if something went wrong. Safe to be on the outside of the truck. Head out on a drive and WOT a few times while watching the gauge. If it builds pressure and stays high, then you likely have HG problems.

 
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 10:28 AM
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Also, check this link from Cheezit for the EGR Cooler testing...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...9-08-03-a.html
 
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 09:26 PM
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I plumbed in a dedicated pressure gauge to my Coolant Filter, so checking
the pressure in my Cooling System is as easy as opening the hood !!!!
 
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 03:32 PM
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Thanks Bill, I'll give this a try and post the results. I just had the coolant flush last year when I had the new EGR cooler and coolant filter (oil cooler) replaced. The egr cooler had ruptured and I hoping I caught in time from doing damage to the HG's.




Originally Posted by 99ExpyProblems
Looks like either Green Coolant in there or you have one of the dirtiest cooling systems of any car I have ever seen... You could start with testing the cap and the coolant. If you don't have boil over protection, your coolant can puke. The HG or EGR Cooler test is pretty easy to perform. I used a 30 psi gauge and about 12 feet of 3/8 fuel line with a 3/8 brass tee connected in line with the radiator and degas bottle hose. Start the truck up and have someone rev the engine up while watching the gauge. If the pressure builds rapidly above 20 psi, then you likely have EGR Cooler issues. Next is the HG test...Run the hose out the front of the hood, making sure not to pinch the hose when closing the hood, then run the gauge up to the windshield and tape it to the outside of the windshield and then hold the hose down with one of the wiper blades. I put mine on the outside of the truck, some do the inside. I didn't want the possibility of coolant blowing all inside the cab if something went wrong. Safe to be on the outside of the truck. Head out on a drive and WOT a few times while watching the gauge. If it builds pressure and stays high, then you likely have HG problems.

 
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 11:04 PM
  #8  
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I think your missing something. You need to be using either Motorcraft gold coolant or xerox gold. It's either that or change to ELC. That looks like green and it is bad for this engine. You should drain and flush and flush until absolutely clear distiller water. After 20 rinses, maybe do the cleaning solution. Then drain and flush many times. Less flushes if you remove block plugs and put in Fumoto valves, and remove thermostat. If this is the wrong coolant no wonder she is boiling over. Also, remember, the low fill line is the high line now on the overflow bottle, so only fill to that level and what it like a hawk. Also gauges are necessary. What is oil temp and water temp delta.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 12:33 AM
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to come to think of it, it is green coolant. what's the difference between the two? the shop I took it to did all the work gave no indication on using special coolant. He did however have 6 F series in his bay and believe it or not a Dodge/Cummings with the entire front taken off. So it's was nice to see a Cummings being repaired. something to do with the timing chain breaking loose. Some of the Trucks had their cabs off the frame, others like mine in for egr/oil cooler replacement. I assume he knows what he was doing after taking to him before he did the work. He also advise me that the low fill line is the high mark according to a service bulleting from Ford. I will have to call and see why he chose green.

Originally Posted by mhoefer
I think your missing something. You need to be using either Motorcraft gold coolant or xerox gold. It's either that or change to ELC. That looks like green and it is bad for this engine. You should drain and flush and flush until absolutely clear distiller water. After 20 rinses, maybe do the cleaning solution. Then drain and flush many times. Less flushes if you remove block plugs and put in Fumoto valves, and remove thermostat. If this is the wrong coolant no wonder she is boiling over. Also, remember, the low fill line is the high line now on the overflow bottle, so only fill to that level and what it like a hawk. Also gauges are necessary. What is oil temp and water temp delta.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 12:47 AM
  #10  
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The green has silica in it and will drop out in time an plug your oil cooler
use a cat1 elc coolant and add a coolant filter. Right now your oil cooler has the smallest passages in your motor and is acting as your filter. You need something smaller to catch the particals before they enter your cooler
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 01:14 AM
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Ask your mechanic what coolant he put in the truck. It will run on the old green high silicate coolant, but you need to change once a year. Again, an your mechanic about it. Maybe with an egr delete, the high silicate coolant is not exposed to high enough temps to cause the silicates to gel as some have speculated.

The worst thing you can do us mix two different coolant types. If he did not flush out the old coolant before adding the green, the two fan gel in elevated temps. It takes a lot of flushing to get all the old coolant out. A simple drain will leave about 3.5 gallons in the system. Thus, it takes about 5 to 6 fills and drains to remove almost all the old coolant. If he used the block plugs, it will take 4 to 5. If he pulled the thermostat and used a hose in the bottle, it's quick, but you have tap water and not distilled. Proper filling is with distilled.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 01:45 AM
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Bryan,

is the oil cooler the only reason to run with a special coolant other then the green stuff? I went with the external oil cooler so maybe that's the reason there is green coolant in the tank? I am just afraid I might have addressed the egr cooler leak to late and the HG's are leaking. I am going to do that test tomorrow and see. If the head has to come off there is no reason to flush.

Originally Posted by BryanStein
Ask your mechanic what coolant he put in the truck. It will run on the old green high silicate coolant, but you need to change once a year. Again, an your mechanic about it. Maybe with an egr delete, the high silicate coolant is not exposed to high enough temps to cause the silicates to gel as some have speculated.

The worst thing you can do us mix two different coolant types. If he did not flush out the old coolant before adding the green, the two fan gel in elevated temps. It takes a lot of flushing to get all the old coolant out. A simple drain will leave about 3.5 gallons in the system. Thus, it takes about 5 to 6 fills and drains to remove almost all the old coolant. If he used the block plugs, it will take 4 to 5. If he pulled the thermostat and used a hose in the bottle, it's quick, but you have tap water and not distilled. Proper filling is with distilled.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 01:54 AM
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That picture really didn't look all that bad. My vote is a bad cap, but I'm no mechanic.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 02:47 AM
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Agreed. An external oil cooler eliminates a lot of concerns about the type of coolant.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr.Nobody
That picture really didn't look all that bad. My vote is a bad cap, but I'm no mechanic.
I'm with you on this one. Before I panicked I'd replace the cap and be sure the coolant level is at the min. line in the degas tank and barring any other unmentioned problems I'd run the truck in the heat a bit more, maybe with the cab heater on just to check if the system was building up more pressure than it was suppose to ( usually if the head gasket(s) are bad that will be the case) and the heater won't circulate and blow cool air (relatively speaking). Although I'll admit I'm new to the 6.0 I think I'd still hold out some optimism in this case.
 
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