fss melted down. why
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
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for the fuel, i started back in the day filtering it through a pair of blue jeans, worked great until the jean filter plugged up, leaving me 2 gallons of oil hanging on a wire and not filtering out. i stepped up from there to a drill-powered engine oil pump pushing it through a $3 clear plastic filter - the cheapo ones you would put before the carb on an old truck. worked great but i got tired of plugging filters, so i eventually moved up to a bigger system where i mix the fuels before filtering them, now gravity does all the work and i just have to turn a valve to control it. its really simple to get started
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I would definitely take it back to the shop that you got it from if they won't make good on it I would file a complaint with the BBB and anybody locally that will listen. 
That said you can tell a lot about any company by the way they respond to a problem "or don't" 
Mark
That said you can tell a lot about any company by the way they respond to a problem "or don't" Mark
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well, it died again yesterday. i was almost to my lady's house when it just stopped making power again, as if the FSS had switched off again. this IP on there now had never died on me before, but at times in the past has had a delayed shutdown as if the FSS were slightly gummed up and delayed in its movement.
this time i have no visible signs of damage on the outside, and so far all i've done is tested for power at the FSS, which is getting power.
as for history on this IP, it was rebuilt about 90k miles ago for the previous owner, and always ran well for me, this is the one i took off for a rebuilt unit when i rebuilt the engine.
so my next step is to prove i have fuel supply at the filter head, and if yes i'll crack injector lines while cranking to see if i get fuel.
anything else i should be looking at to figure out why it died again
this time i have no visible signs of damage on the outside, and so far all i've done is tested for power at the FSS, which is getting power.
as for history on this IP, it was rebuilt about 90k miles ago for the previous owner, and always ran well for me, this is the one i took off for a rebuilt unit when i rebuilt the engine.
so my next step is to prove i have fuel supply at the filter head, and if yes i'll crack injector lines while cranking to see if i get fuel.
anything else i should be looking at to figure out why it died again
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
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Maybe its a separate issue than before. When was the last time you changed your fuel filter. Maybe it is gummed up to the point that it is being mostly bypassed and the fuel is returning to the tank. Probably long shot, but this is what mine did.
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Well, the current round of testing says that I do have power to the fss, but the fss does not click or respond when power is applied. Combined with this, I get no fuel from an injector line that's loosened while cranking. It acts like the fss failed on this pump as well.
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Postmaster
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Well, I haven't used a voltmeter just a test light, so who knows. I do know that using a long jumper wire from the battery to the fss doesn't change anything.
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As a temporary thing, you could try taking the cap off the injection pump(the part with the solenoid in it), and removing the little lever(or entire solenoid). If you put the cap back on without the solenoid, the truck will run fine, it just won't stop... so make sure you've got a good way to stop it first(easy in a stick, not sure about an auto).
Also, if you end up putting a new solenoid in yourself, you have to be careful about where the little lever is; if you do it wrong, the engine will apparently run at full throttle until you stop it some other way(basically, if you manage to have the solenoid lever jamming the injection slider fully /on/...)
Also, if you end up putting a new solenoid in yourself, you have to be careful about where the little lever is; if you do it wrong, the engine will apparently run at full throttle until you stop it some other way(basically, if you manage to have the solenoid lever jamming the injection slider fully /on/...)
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well, i've been back on the road for a few days and thought i'd give y'all an update.
when i got to work on it a couple days ago, i looked at the other injector pump i had on hand that i hadn't tried yet, and thought i really didn't want to trust this pump, so i decided to pull the top cover with the FSS off of both it and the one on the van. the one on my engine had the FSS swelled up and dysfunctional, while also having something resembling the black sludge you find in the bottom of a tranny pan sticking to the FSS. this suggests that i had a problem in my fuel supply since i was playing with WMO. i suspect some stray metal filings got past some filters and stuck to the FSS, screwing it up until it fried.
so now i'm back to running pump fuel on my clean fuel tank until i work this out. i just started a thread in the alternative fuels side to share my experience with this issue https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13618649
installing the top cover was easy, i'd read a lot about installing it wrong causing a runaway engine, but found that all you have to do is set the top cover in place about a quarter inch forward of where it belongs, then slide it back into place, or have it energized as everybody says you have to do. i was scared to open it up, but found it easy to do
when i got to work on it a couple days ago, i looked at the other injector pump i had on hand that i hadn't tried yet, and thought i really didn't want to trust this pump, so i decided to pull the top cover with the FSS off of both it and the one on the van. the one on my engine had the FSS swelled up and dysfunctional, while also having something resembling the black sludge you find in the bottom of a tranny pan sticking to the FSS. this suggests that i had a problem in my fuel supply since i was playing with WMO. i suspect some stray metal filings got past some filters and stuck to the FSS, screwing it up until it fried.
so now i'm back to running pump fuel on my clean fuel tank until i work this out. i just started a thread in the alternative fuels side to share my experience with this issue https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13618649
installing the top cover was easy, i'd read a lot about installing it wrong causing a runaway engine, but found that all you have to do is set the top cover in place about a quarter inch forward of where it belongs, then slide it back into place, or have it energized as everybody says you have to do. i was scared to open it up, but found it easy to do
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