So I had some issues with my truck a couple weeks ago and I seemed to have really sorted them out. Fixed my AC, fixed the jumping Speedo needle, replaced tensioner and new belt..etc. Lots of help on here and it's awesome!

I now see that my coolant guage goes up a little bit then goes back to normal after I drive. When I use Torque an OBDII program it is telling my my coolant is 260 degrees which seems super hot to me?

I planned on changing and completely flushing the radiator since I don't think that has been done in YEARS... which brings me to my next question... should I replace the thermostat and water pump since I am there?

I plan on changing the alternator out this weekend since I believe that is going bad and only supplying the batter at abuot a 12.8v charge rather than the 14v it should be at idle....

I'm just wondering if this is wise or leave it alone and just flush the coolant? I don't have any coolant leaks presently but at the same time why would the coolant be so hot? I was planning on picking up a 208degree thermostat from amazon by Stant... they make that and a 180 degree.. .I've been told the 2.3L should run a little hotter and the 180 degree isn't that great.

Should I even bother changing these two components? I regret not changing the alternator last weekend when I had the ac compressor out since its below it..etc.

At the same point I don't want to create more problems but at the same time I want to be proactive. Truck has about 138k miles on it and I can already tell that replacing the belt and tensioner helped... but wanted to ask about the other stuff..

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

What year is your Ranger? (You should put the year and engine type in your signature).

To get a good flush, normally you need to remove the t-stat and replace the t-stat housing without the t-stat installed. So it would follow that you might as well replace the t-stat if you are going to do a flush.

On the other hand, I think some of those 4-bangers require that the entire t-stat housing has to be replaced; you can't just buy a new t-stat and pop it in. Of course, that would seemingly make flushing the system more difficult, if you can't just re-install the housing minus the t-stat.

I'm real not familiar with the 2.3L, so hopefully some others will chime in and give you more succinct advice.

 

Fixed!


I agree I have to buy the entire housing which isn't bad that's fine to me:


Is what I was planning on getting...

I just wasn't sure if replacing that would be worth it but since you said I would have to take it out and do a proper flush then I guess it would NOT be bad to replace it. Wouldn't running it without it though cause issues? Am I correct in saying that the water pump is what pushes the coolant through the engine and the thermostat is what opens to allow the pump to push the coolant through?

I was just wondering does the pump eventually wear out or rust? I know my STi needed it replaced when I did the timing belt on it and it was recommended to change it so I did...

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

I am also not familiar with the 4 cyl, BUT, when I had one the timing belt needed replacement often around 100000 miles and to get to it you had to remove the water pump! on the wifes honda v6 when you do the belt they say replace the water pump at the smae time. You dont say how many miles but yes the water pumps do weaken flow wise. On a nissan it had a shaft failure so that could be potentially an issue for you based on miles.

As to what temp tstat what does your manual call for? In hot areas like here in az the cooler one is normally preferred, the hotter for cold winter regions. So I run around a 190 in my truck and when it was cold I dropped a paper bag in front of the rad. to keep it warm. couple times I got eng check light because the coolant too cold when driving over the crest of a hill.

Your threory on the water pump function is correct. It also pushes the coolant thru the heater when its opened up.

 

Have you actually tested the alternator output and it is only 12.8? That could be a bad alternator or a bad voltage regulator. Maybe the regulator is intregal with the alternator these days, I don't know, but once upon a time you could change it separately and save money. Maybe it still is that way.

Periodic coolant flushes are a good thing.

 

On the cooling system, might as well replace the stat while you're there. Unless the pump is leaking, I'd leave it alone. As far as the alternator, go over to AutoZone, and have them run a load test on it. If it checks out good, that's good. If you really are running that output, and things work alright, I'd leave it alone, but keep it in the back of the brain as a future replacement. Be careful on getting a replacement though, I replaced the one on my 7.3 twice, cheap A$$ chineese crap from autoquest. I really don't know of a quality replacement brand other than OEM, maybe someone else can help with that.

 

Yea I tested the output from the alt and it's putting out 12.8v and then earlier today it was putting out 13.1v.

I just tested my radiator fan clutch and it appears that isn't working right either, almost no resistance when turning it. So I think really it's never fully engaged? Only simply turning a that the normal speed when the engine is on I've never heard it engage or lock to blow full speed....arg

I drove in today to work and the the truck once turned on takes about 30 seconds to get to about 167 degrees coolant temp.... at which point as I'm driving it get to 260 degrees... so something seems off there, I never really gave it thought since the dummy gauge has always been in the center on the dash and only really noticed it a couple days ago once I saw the gauge closer to the RED mark then go back down to the middle and still is at 260+ degrees...

I will double check but I don't think most things were changed on the truck from the previous owner. I just fixed the AC and tensioner and belt couple weekends ago.
Before that I had to replace the blower motor, resistor and misc things, normal maintenance.

I DO know the tensioner pulley was shot because it made a ringing noise even though it was still springy, and not loose...etc. The belt was all cracked and looked old.

I don't think I am leaking any coolant at all because the last time I topped it off was a while a go... I do know there seems to be air in the top hose once I shut the truck off...
The lower hose is cooler to the touch so it appears that coolant IS flowing through the lower hose and the upper hose up top is in fact hot so engine coolant is going in....

So it would appear that perhaps my thermostat might not be working correctly or something or perhaps the water pumps impellers are not functioning as they should. Since I have to remove the t-stat anyways to flush I might as well look at it, and the water pump is there too so it shouldn't be too bad I am guessing or hoping.... Both motorcraft parts have been ordered. I ordered a new acdelco alternator I think that is a good brand.

I'm sure I will run into problems starting tomorrow, which isn't going to be fun but we'll see what happens. Hope I can fix it, just hoping that my rad isn't clogged. Plan on running distilled white vinegar through the system a couple times to get crap out. I do it for my motorcycles and it's always worked a lot better than any flush kit that ruins the rad...etc Sucks though that my radiator doesn't have a rad cap on it, it's on the coolant reservoir tank.


Thanks,
-Nigel

 

Sounds Like a Bad ECT sender theres NO WAY you can get that HOT in 30 seconds I think I would replace it First if it tests Bad

And an Answer to your question is Yes I chancge Parts everytime I see they are Bad by my Gauges ALOT Better to fix on Your own terms vs the Side of the road

I am Fairly framiliar with Torq APP I use a ScanGaugeII and its similar

When you Test the Sensors and the Gauge your going to Let the Trick Sit 12 hours Cold Soak

At this time you will Compare ECT--EOT--TFT and so on
ALL^^ these temps Must be Within 1-2*f

ALso as the truck Heaats Up the Temps Need to Rise Steady and Not Jump Around


Oh and sounds like your Fan Clutch is Worn out due to the Bad ECT sender @ ECT of 260*f that Fan should be SCREAMING you need to find RPM and maybe fan Duty cycle and take your Values @ ECT of 190*f and compare to DFord Spec

I know for my Diesel Ford has Value for Each Sensor I assume yours is the Same Basicaly it is so that the Techs can test one truck to the Next and ALL the Conditions/Varibles are the Same

I Take sensor values at KOEO--Low Idle--High Idle(2500rpm) and compare to Ford Spec Sheet Im shure you guys should have something like this wether or Not its posted on the Web site IDK

I know a Couple Good Ford Wrenches that may Help us if Paw Paw or Rockledge or one the others don't have Specs

 

Thank you for the info!

Many questions now.. I am on rock auto's website and they have like 10 ECT switches... Then I found this:

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/348ml...e-degrees.html

Which the guy is saying that the ECT switch isn't there it'a cht switch located right by the spark plugs...

I went to amazon on the Motorcraft part numbers from rock auto and they have two different names one is the :

Motorcraft DY-1156 Coolant Temperature Sensor
by Motorcraft:





Next is called:

Motorcraft SW5174 Radiator Fan Switch





One has an oring on it from rockauto's website and the other doesn't. Also looks a little different.

I suspect my radatior fan is NOT kicking on via the clutch, so I am replacing that.. but I had no clue there is a switch is it right on the rad??

I don't want to buy sensors that aren't needed but I just want to make sure, I can't seem to figure out what is needed, if I need both sensors cool I just don't want to buy one sensor to find out it doesn't fit anywhere or anything like that...etc.

Thank so far for the help! I think you are right on changing out the sensor FIRST but I just simply don't know which one to get........ seems like I can find them for the 3.0/4.0 and there are threads about it but the 2.3L is like the step child..lol

-Nigel

 

The thermostatic spring on front of clutch for fan is what engages it. Flush system,replace stat and fan clutch and that should take care of the issue. Make sure when you refill with antifreeze that you elevate front end of truck and run it till fully warmed up (with heater on full) to burp out any trapped air.

 

VERY interesting thing happened today...

So it's 90 degrees here in virginia currently IN OCTOBER..lol I was driving and of course my torq app on my phone is telling me that the coolant is HOT... 250+ degrees.. the gauge on the dashboard start going higher and higher and then right before it gets to the red mark it goes down.. I look at my phone and it looked like as hit approaches and hits 275 degrees for the coolant something happens and it drops back down to 255... it did this MANY times and I was trying just to get home and not push it, but it appears that the thermostat is doing something but leads me to believe that it really is screwed up or opening SUPER late... So I think your are right by replacing the thermostat while I'm there I am replacing with a new pump... it's not going to hurt as far as I'm concerned and replace the fan clutch...

My alternator is also only putting out roughly 12.1v so that's going to get replaced since I take the fan/belt and other stuff off... might as well...lol

Hopefully this fixes it.

Question on burping. Since I do NOT have a rad cap on the radiator and my cap is on the reservoir tank I was told just like you said to elivate the truck a little but to leave the cap off until the thermostat opens and I see the liquid getting sucked in through the tank and then add as needed...etc. Just wondering if that is ok or will it suck air in somehow?

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

Have No Idea what one you need

see post#8 on the cold soak Test ALL Fluid temp sensor should read same after 12 hour cold Soak

As Far as the Alternator Have you Cleaned ALL Battery Cables???Cleaned both ends of +&- wires

You Probably are correct and need a New Alt but this^^^ is easy and free

If you have a DVM you can do a Bunch of testing

ALTERNATOR STUFF
http://www.pvv.org/~syljua/merc/TooSeptST07.pdf




FORD PCM CONTROLLED CHARGING INFO
NAPA - PCM Controlled Charging System

 

If tensioner is bad and belt somewhat loose, maybe that can affect alternator output?

 

Yes it Can!!!