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i broke my second u joint in a month. coming from the tranny to t-case. used a napa brand one last time, anyone have a better brand in mind? is there a difference in quality between manufacturers???
Are you putting some lock tight on the hardware and lock washers on the clamps?
And you putting the correct width and diameter u joint in there in the first place?
Are you caps fully seated in the flange, under load or heavy excess go pedal release take offs are your rear springs "S" flexin and giving you a real bad pinion angle and blowing the u joint?
I got in a hurry once with the u-bolts with out enough light to see what i was doing. Never got the caps seated right and just as soon as i put it in gear , i heard the drive shaft beating on the shop floor. Cost me another new joint.
If you're talking about the driveshaft u-joint at the t-case, check to make sure your drive shaft is "in phase". Mine wasn't last year and POP, shaking, pull over, yoke ear at the u-joint broke off. Wasn't in phase.
Are you putting some lock tight on the hardware and lock washers on the clamps?
And you putting the correct width and diameter u joint in there in the first place?
Are you caps fully seated in the flange, under load or heavy excess go pedal release take offs are your rear springs "S" flexin and giving you a real bad pinion angle and blowing the u joint?
ok so the second link specs match the u joint i am replacing. i still want to know why its going out. it is the ujoint behind the transmission. the angle looks non excessive... the drive shaft is in phase. should i torq the u bolts to a certain spec? the truck has a 460, with 35 inch tires. is it being overworked?
Are you breaking the u joint caps or burning up the splines in the cap? Yes you should always torque IAW the manual.
460 and 35's.....yea its getting worked if you are hammering on it all the time. Is this a new symptom or has it always done it? Did it start after you changed something?
Are you trans and xfer case mounts/bushings good and tight? Motor mounts good?
Are you breaking the u joint caps or burning up the splines in the cap? Yes you should always torque IAW the manual.
460 and 35's.....yea its getting worked if you are hammering on it all the time. Is this a new symptom or has it always done it? Did it start after you changed something?
Are you trans and xfer case mounts/bushings good and tight? Motor mounts good?
the ujoint i just replaced looked like it had been welded, obvious sign of heat and lack of lubrication. i was researching ujoints and came across a cool youtube video on dana spicers site of the flow of grease across the channels of a ujoint. i took care to liberally grease this new one today. hoping the last failure was my fault as i had greased it till i heard popping and didnt visually see grease pushing past all 4 seals. can i just put a socket to tranny and engine mounts to check tightness or maybe run engine to watch for movement? what works for you guys on that? i torqued to 15lbs and blue loctite ed this new u joint so im hoping it lasts a while!
Are you getting u-joints with a grease zert that you have to install, or sealed ones? Sealed ones are suppose to be stronger that the ones with the internal grease channel.....
The welded look is a strong indication of NO lube or cheap u joints that has failed. Once you hard slip the clutch and damage the cap splines (needle bearings) and they quit rolling smoothly its only a matter of time.
Over torquing the caps can cause damage, correct torque and lube is a good thing.
Tight ck at the attachment hdwr and CAREFULLY use a pry bar to see if the trans mount is broken. Do you understand that statement?