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hey guys, im heartbroken about my truck. I recently had to add some oil to it cuz it was running ****ty and it was low on oil started running fine. 2 days after my truck started running ****ty again. took it to a shop and had the fuel tank cleaned and the screens taken out and replaced with an inline filter and the fuel pump was replaced, runs fine now, but has a knock when the engine warms up, and im at a lose on what it could be and all fluid levels are good. any sugesstions, I don't want to depart with my truck!!
Get an injector O-ring kit (set of 8) and a pair of Under Valve Cover Harnesses. The UVCHs are a preventative maintenance thing, if you've never been under the valve covers to do this before. You also have the option of getting new glow plugs - another 80 bucks or so. Pop the valve covers and check your injector torque - 120 to 140 inch/pounds. The book says if the torque starts out below 50 inch/pounds, pop the injector out, replace the O-rings and copper washer, and re-install. I agree with the book... once these buggers get loose, they can cause washer, O-ring, and cup damage. Replacing all of the O-rings/washers would be best, if you have a lot of miles on them... but you want to check the torque first to isolate what's going on. If you check the torque and all is well, then you likely have a bad injector - and you need to be under there anyway.
THANKS ABUNCH, ill see what I can do, if I have any problems ill reach you. ive got 210000 miles on it, if it came down to it, how would I and how hard would an injector replace be?
Its still running... if you are not belching smoke then i will lean toward an injector like you described in your text msg. Injector orings is an easy job for the mechanically competent.
You saw how i took the cac tubes out of the way and popped the valve covers... that is actually the hardest part (in most instances... Rich's comments on the matter dont count... for he is cursed... )
You can get a fresh set of injector orings here in town at the international dealer... but it would save you some money if you got them from bob at dieselorings.com or clay at Riffraffdiesel.com
If you want Billy,
You can swing by the shop where i work sometime this week and i can have a listen...
But my ae is still dead until i get a new laptop...
I work at the machine shop in the big blue building on juan linn right behind farm industrial.
Got to get a good listen to the knock...
Sounds like armature slap on an almost done injector.
Recommended Billy change his 10k ish oil...
He reported it sounded much better after the oil change...
But not long after developed an oil leak... puking almost all of it right back out...
Went out and took a good look at it ... felt all up on her goodies...
Nice and dry under hpop.
Oil cooler is blissfully dry.
Under the turbo... not so much.
For those that remember the leak we saw on Brother Ted's truck at the gtg... double the amount of oil and thats pretty close to Billy Ray's leak.
Looks like someone will be making a Riffraff order in the very near future...
Got to get a good listen to the knock...
Sounds like armature slap on an almost done injector.
Recommended Billy change his 10k ish oil...
He reported it sounded much better after the oil change...
But not long after developed an oil leak... puking almost all of it right back out...
Went out and took a good look at it ... felt all up on her goodies...
Nice and dry under hpop.
Oil cooler is blissfully dry.
Under the turbo... not so much.
For those that remember the leak we saw on Brother Ted's truck at the gtg... double the amount of oil and thats pretty close to Billy Ray's leak.
Looks like someone will be making a Riffraff order in the very near future...
Boxes with yellow tape are the best
So is it a leaking EBPV? I just deleted mine when I found a bad leak.
Weepy. Major leak is at pedistal.
Why wait till it finishes blowing out tho i say. A rebuild while its out is hella better than pulling it out again just to do ebpv.