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Check engine light
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Eads, TN
Check engine light
I have a 2003 F250 7.3 diesel and the other day the CEL came on. Idled fine in the driveway and after I started down the road the CEL went off. When I came to a stop, the engine shuttered but never died. Drove fine going further, and when I came to another stop, it shuttered again.
I changed the CPS (Duralast brand from Autozone) and it drove fine for a day or so, then started all over again. Now the engine will die at a stop, but it cranks right back up. Sometime now it will even shutter and miss while going down the road, like a hiccup.
Now I'm thinking it's an ICP or an IPR valve. I'm going to take it to a shop and see if they can pull any codes. Hopefully I didn't buy a faulty CPS.
When I disconnected the plug to the ICP I noticed oil on the connection. This is not normal, correct? If not, could this be my problem?
I changed the CPS (Duralast brand from Autozone) and it drove fine for a day or so, then started all over again. Now the engine will die at a stop, but it cranks right back up. Sometime now it will even shutter and miss while going down the road, like a hiccup.
Now I'm thinking it's an ICP or an IPR valve. I'm going to take it to a shop and see if they can pull any codes. Hopefully I didn't buy a faulty CPS.
When I disconnected the plug to the ICP I noticed oil on the connection. This is not normal, correct? If not, could this be my problem?
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Eads, TN
A bad ICP will do everything you describe, but that's not a guarantee this will fix it. ICPs are failing right about now... but get OEM. Really.
[LINK]
[LINK]
Since there is oil on the ICP connector, is that my culprit or should I still get a scan to verify before throwing parts at it?
If it is a ICP, where is the best place to buy them online?
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Eads, TN
Just started the truck cold and no CEL, but it's started like that in the past. I did check my oil and there was only about a half inch of oil on the dipstick, which was below the normal range. 
I've never seen this truck use any oil in the past. I only had a half quart of Rotella, so I put that in. I'll get more oil later to top it off.
I've red here that low oil will make a truck have my symptoms.....How does that work?
I've never seen this truck use any oil in the past. I only had a half quart of Rotella, so I put that in. I'll get more oil later to top it off.
I've red here that low oil will make a truck have my symptoms.....How does that work?
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From: Eads, TN
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From: Puget Sound
HEUI Injectors "50.5" (more basic than 101):
Injectors are electrically triggered, but oil powered. There is a High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) that boosts Injector Control Pressure (ICP). The injector solenoid opens, allowing that high-pressure oil into the injector. That high-pressure oil presses down on a "plunger" that squeezes the fuel out the nozzle of the injector - this is akin to a really big hypodermic needle, with ICP being an uber-thumb. By the way, the oil pressure gets as high as 2800 PSI on a stock engine - I didn't slip a decimal. 2800 PSI can wear on a sensor a bit, so I find it easy to forgive my OEM sensor for only lasting 13 years and 275,000 miles.
The really impressive part? There is an "intensifier" in the injector. This has big face on the oil side, with a small face on the fuel side. What this does is convert the 2800 PSI of oil pressure to 19,600 PSI fuel pressure. Again, not a slip of a decimal. That oughtta atomize the fuel sufficiently.
The Injector Pressure Regulator (IPR) controls the oil pressure from the HPOP to the injectors. If the ICP is lying, the IPR gets the wrong signal and there's no way to really know if your oil pressure can do the job. Smoke, heat, weak power, hard starts, crazy cackle, bad idle, and crappy MPGs are all symptoms of a bad ICP - depending on if it's lying high or low. If the IPR needs a weird signal to make the ICP do what the computer wants - SES lights and trouble codes ensue.
Injectors are electrically triggered, but oil powered. There is a High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) that boosts Injector Control Pressure (ICP). The injector solenoid opens, allowing that high-pressure oil into the injector. That high-pressure oil presses down on a "plunger" that squeezes the fuel out the nozzle of the injector - this is akin to a really big hypodermic needle, with ICP being an uber-thumb. By the way, the oil pressure gets as high as 2800 PSI on a stock engine - I didn't slip a decimal. 2800 PSI can wear on a sensor a bit, so I find it easy to forgive my OEM sensor for only lasting 13 years and 275,000 miles.
The really impressive part? There is an "intensifier" in the injector. This has big face on the oil side, with a small face on the fuel side. What this does is convert the 2800 PSI of oil pressure to 19,600 PSI fuel pressure. Again, not a slip of a decimal. That oughtta atomize the fuel sufficiently.
The Injector Pressure Regulator (IPR) controls the oil pressure from the HPOP to the injectors. If the ICP is lying, the IPR gets the wrong signal and there's no way to really know if your oil pressure can do the job. Smoke, heat, weak power, hard starts, crazy cackle, bad idle, and crappy MPGs are all symptoms of a bad ICP - depending on if it's lying high or low. If the IPR needs a weird signal to make the ICP do what the computer wants - SES lights and trouble codes ensue.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Eads, TN
Thanks Tugly. 
Well, I topped the oil off and drove to the golf course and about half way there it started to cough, miss, fart, and barely limped in the parking lot. It has never ran this bad continually. I parked and was uncertain whether I would make it home.
After golf, I cranked up and it drove perfectly all the way home, not one hiccup.
I'm taking it to a mechanic about an hour away to scan and get the codes. He's charging me $40. Every mechanic around me wants $100-125 just to scan it, which IMO is robbery.
Well, I topped the oil off and drove to the golf course and about half way there it started to cough, miss, fart, and barely limped in the parking lot. It has never ran this bad continually. I parked and was uncertain whether I would make it home.
After golf, I cranked up and it drove perfectly all the way home, not one hiccup.
I'm taking it to a mechanic about an hour away to scan and get the codes. He's charging me $40. Every mechanic around me wants $100-125 just to scan it, which IMO is robbery.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Eads, TN
No such luck. I have a bad ICP and possibly a bad IPR as well. He advised to replace the bad ICP and that may fix the issue with the IPR. As I stated earlier, there is oil in the connector to the ICP, which indicated the ICP was leaking internally. After putting it on a scanner verified it was bad.
Now where can I get the best price for an ICP. My dealership here wants $180.
Now where can I get the best price for an ICP. My dealership here wants $180.
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Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Hagerstown, MD
I just recently bought an ICP sensor and harness from dieselorings and the experience was top notch. Highly recommended. Very simple to change, If you don't have the proper crows foot (16 or 17mm IIRC, someone correct me if I'm wrong, for the OEM one) you'll likely have to remove the alternator to make it easier as I did.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Long Island
No such luck. I have a bad ICP and possibly a bad IPR as well. He advised to replace the bad ICP and that may fix the issue with the IPR. As I stated earlier, there is oil in the connector to the ICP, which indicated the ICP was leaking internally. After putting it on a scanner verified it was bad.
Now where can I get the best price for an ICP. My dealership here wants $180.
Now where can I get the best price for an ICP. My dealership here wants $180.