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I'm not an engineer but I've been fooling with engines for a long time and since this question seems to come up a LOT maybe someone a lot more knowledgeable than myself can answer these questions.
Why do our thermostats seem to fail at such a seemingly high rate? I'm on my third in 2 years (all Motorcraft)
Why does the temperature always seem to go cooler instead of hotter when they fail? I have rarely, if ever seen or read of the temps going to the high side.
From all my Google searches there is nothing special about our thermostats that say they fail on the "safe" side, i.e. they don't fail open. Everything I can find says that they fail either open or closed. Is there something engineered into the cooling system that "forces" the temperatures to go to the cool side if the thermostat fails?
Don't know what to say Tim. I'm still on my original t-stat and my temps stay between 196 and 204 consistantly when empty cruising or in town. Also when towing on flat ground.
My experience is similar. 2 Motorcraft and 1 Stant so far. They all seemed to make 190* pretty quick when they're new and fade to a sluggish 180* in just a few months. It seems like the spring is getting weak quickly after installation. Anybody know of a "heavy duty" option to try?
Thermostat shouldn't fail closed because as others have already pointed out, the spring keeps it closed. It can get weak, but it's not going to get stronger. In all the years I have owned and worked on vehicles, I have never had a vehicle overheat from a failed thermostat. I guess it's possible if you have a SEVERELY neglected system? You could get a build up that would cause it? I don't know, I've never seen one... not even convinced they exist. Anyone else ever had one stick closed?
It is because we have sg2/odb gauges. Never replaced a tstat in any prior ( all GM) vehicles in 30 YEARS. We are talking 5-10 degree drops and we replace the bad "tstat".
No idea how much other auto brands tstats vary though.
Good point..I was just chalking it up to crappy new parts because "back in the day" we didn't have these issues, but I think this is the first vehicle I've owned where I see the temp to the single digit every time I drive it.
Anybody bought a thermostat that didn't drop after a few months and what brand? Think I'll search the web for a souper-douper billet piece with a tritium/unobtainium spring (hopefully blue anodized) lol. Honestly, I do think my truck pulls better and gets better mileage at 195* than it does at 180*.
Good point..I was just chalking it up to crappy new parts because "back in the day" we didn't have these issues, but I think this is the first vehicle I've owned where I see the temp to the single digit every time I drive it.
Anybody bought a thermostat that didn't drop after a few months and what brand? Think I'll search the web for a souper-douper billet piece with a tritium/unobtainium spring (hopefully blue anodized) lol. Honestly, I do think my truck pulls better and gets better mileage at 195* than it does at 180*.
It probably would get a little better MPG and even run a bit better with a hotter engine it makes sense anyway. Diesel engines work from compression and heat, basically you need a lot of both or you don't get 'fire in the hole' so I'll get me a new one swap it out and see what happens to my no load temps. I'm getting ready for winter here in Maine and the last thing I need is a cold engine when I'm using it. Does anyone know if I will be needing to but Tstat AND goose neck together or can I just replace the Tsta it self and use my old goose neck? and what is the advantage/disadvantage to one or the other? Thanks.
It probably would get a little better MPG and even run a bit better with a hotter engine it makes sense anyway. Diesel engines work from compression and heat, basically you need a lot of both or you don't get 'fire in the hole' so I'll get me a new one swap it out and see what happens to my no load temps. I'm getting ready for winter here in Maine and the last thing I need is a cold engine when I'm using it. Does anyone know if I will be needing to but Tstat AND goose neck together or can I just replace the Tsta it self and use my old goose neck? and what is the advantage/disadvantage to one or the other? Thanks.
The OEM comes as an assembly with the o-ring/gasket
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