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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Electric issue...

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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 12:26 AM
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Unhappy Electric issue...

I have had this issue for a while, I have '85 150 with I300 in it. My battery, Extreme/Super-Start brand, has been replaced several times, thank god for life-time warranties, and alternator has too. I have had the whole starting system checked and the alternator it is all good. Here is the problem, I can start my truck fine 4-7 times then i have to recharge the battery. Then the other day it decided not to start, so i recharged the battery. When i put the battery back in the truck it didnt work still. So i took it and got it tested at Orileys, it tested good and had the full 825 CCA/12.7V. I put it back in the truck and realized i was getting no power to anything, I attempted to arc over the starter solenoid and got nothing... Today its 40 degrees cooler and it attempted to start, failed but attempted then it quit. I have yet to get the lights back on, I believe this is an issue due to the ground. I have been told by a fey people that it might be my ECM, it is grounded and 5-7 years old, Motorcraft brand. I love this truck and want to keep it going strong.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 01:49 AM
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Straight off I can tell you I would NEVER buy any battery O'Reilly's sells except an Optima or Motorcraft, and I work there. We get tons of them back compared to when we carried Exide (Autolite) batteries when we were Kragen Auto Supply. I've seen plenty of the 'Super Start' batteries lose a charge just from sitting a short time. The next time you take it in to get it charged and tested, and they say it's good, let it sit there for ten minutes and ask them to retest it. If it's good, the tester will say so right away, but if it wants to try and charge it again, which I find is often the case, then it's a sure sign the battery is actually bad-even if the tester said it was good after charging it the first time.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 04:20 AM
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If you have no power in the cab and tried jumping the starter solenoid and STILL got nothing then your issue is definitely ground related.
The ECM cannot affect you jumping the starter directly.

Change the ground cable that runs first to the frame, and then on to the engine block. (at least it's that way w/ V-8's, not sure of your I-6)

If you don't want to pay for the expensive Motorcraft cable with the little 'flag' tab for the frame, be sure to buy one of those flat braided ground straps and put it between the bolt on the frame and the new cable at the block.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 05:11 AM
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I'd venture to say the I6 is setup the same way as most V8's. Our F-250 started life with the I6 and was. I agree about it probably being a bad ground the to ECU. Wiring isn't my strong point on these trucks though. My father on the other hand is a master at it.

Are you getting power anywhere at all?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 07:03 AM
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Like was mentioned before, a bad ground to the ECU will not affect it turning over. The ECU is just the brain for the timing and to modify the fuel to the engine. It has nothing to do with turning the engine over.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 10:53 AM
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it finaly has power everywhere else. the ground to the block was damaged. and your right boo orileys batteries... got it replaced with an optima from elsewhere. it now fires up. on the other hand its cold so it takes a few tries, but thats ok . oh and the ecm was not grounded, fixed that too, a little better gas mileage, i could only go 100-130 miles yesterday i went 163 before i had to fuel.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 08:50 PM
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Kind of the same issue. Except I believe everything is grounded.
Today my truck,sat for a week with 1/4 tank of gas, didn't think about it and drove to the gas station for cigs and back, then wouldn't start. Out gas and she was good to go. Stopped for food and the thing had issues starting then would like stall, but when I would kick the gas it would rev up and be okay, did this about five times until I got to the gas station, idlers while fueling then died. Wouldn't start . Hour later it started and died. Hour later started drove to a parking spot idled and died. Got it started and drove like a champ til I parked it. Alternator is good, brand new big *** battery, brand new starter too. Turn it off and it refuses to start. Let it sit for a few and it'll start( this is with absolutely no gas, won't start at all with gas pedal playing around.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by I_broke_it
it finaly has power everywhere else. the ground to the block was damaged. and your right boo orileys batteries... got it replaced with an optima from elsewhere. it now fires up. on the other hand its cold so it takes a few tries, but thats ok . oh and the ecm was not grounded, fixed that too, a little better gas mileage, i could only go 100-130 miles yesterday i went 163 before i had to fuel.

I'd be interested in how your Optima works out for you. I bought one a while back myself, though I've heard they're making them in Mexico now, and those Mexican made batteries are having more problems. My coworkers tell me they are getting more of them back as warranties these days. I don't see that so much myself as O'Reilly's is not my full time job, I'm just there two days a week.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 06:24 PM
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had to take the optima back, shorted out. I got a cheap Wall-mart battery with 800 CCA. works wonderfully.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 01:29 PM
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My 1985 ford f150 has a three wire alternator. Two wires are hooked up but the third is missing. The battery will not charge, and if I put a good battery on and start it, when I pull off the battery cable the motor dies. I had the alternator tested, and it tested good. The two wires that are hooked up are the red post that is held on by a nut and the orange post that just pushes on. The one that is missing is the white post. I can make a wire to fit on the post, but I do not know where it connects too, so it will charge the battery and make the truck run. problem started after replaced battery noticed cable missing
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 01:38 PM
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Do you have an idiot light or an ammeter?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 01:45 PM
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ammeter yes
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 02:01 PM
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found the issue, have no ground and fld was plugged into grd... solved, i feel kinda dumb now but...
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 02:11 PM
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on the same note where would you ground the alternator, the block like the battery or frame, or something i know not of
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by I_broke_it
on the same note where would you ground the alternator, the block like the battery or frame, or something i know not of
Alternator is grounded through the mounting brackets to the engine block, which is already grounded. I did have to ground one once because it was a terribly rusty truck, but the factory uses the brackets.
 
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