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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Transmission Removal Help Please?

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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:38 AM
  #16  
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DBGrif91
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From: Des Moines
Originally Posted by USMCJosh
Make sure first of all that the tranny ain't stuck on the body of the truck (top near the shifter). Secondly you need to put a wood block on a jack and support your engine w/ a jack. Just jack it up by the oil pan using a wood block as a buffer between the jack and the motor. Lift it up a little and try removing the trans (make sure the trans is still supported w/ a jack). Usually the problem is the engine and trans are at too great an angle to separate. Supporting the motor w/ a jack helps.
Is this a joke, or are you purposely trying to get him to crush his oil pan? NEVER expect the oil pan to support the weight of the motor, especially when the potential exists for the motor to drop suddenly. Then you're not only going to crush the oil pan, but likely twist or break motor mounts and do some top end damage as well when it collides into the firewall.

Also, don't rely on hydraulic jacks to support the weight over time. ALWAYS use a jack stand. Even if the jack doesn't creep over time, you can never be certain that a seal won't suddenly break, and then you become the jack stand.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 12:14 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by DBGrif91
ALWAYS use a jack stand. Even if the jack doesn't creep over time, you can never be certain that a seal won't suddenly break, and then you become the jack stand.
Been there done that, but I was too embarrassed to wear the T-shirt. Cheap bottle jack didn't hold while I was laying on my side; suddenly, I couldn't turn on my back to slide back out.

I'm going to swipe that and use it for a signature when I can.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 12:43 PM
  #18  
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From: Rhode Island
Just beat the transmission off, they get stuck on the alignment dowels. It's also possible the clutch disc is seized to the input shaft, but not likely.

Get a big sledge, and use a block of wood as a buffer between the engine and the transmission. You may also want to get a prybar.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 08:38 PM
  #19  
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From: Jacksboro / Knoxville, TN
I had a difficult time removing my E4OD when it was completely unbolted also. I ended up using a big ratchet strap (4" wide) hooked between the trans and the class 3 hitch on the bumper. A couple of strokes on that ratchet brought it down!



Remember the input shaft on a manual will have 6" of travel to clear the pilot bearing, the clutch disk, and the pressure plate. The rear of the engine should be angled down a bit to help the shifter clear the body. Floor jack with a small piece of 2x4 on it, jacking up very carefully on the front pulley may give you a little bit of angle back at the trans tailshaft.

You can also remove the trans floor pan for more clearance.
 
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