I'm pulling the transmission out of my truck to replace the slave cylinder. Problem is, I cannot get it out.*
The truck:
-1995 Ford F150
-5.0, 302 V8
-M5OD Transmission (stick shift)*
-Two wheel drive

What I've done:
-remove driveshaft
-remove crossmember
-remove starter
-removed all lines
-removed the gearshifter
-removed all six bellhousing bolts

Its still connected by something and I don't know what? Im running out of time and ideas. What could possibly be holding it on yet

 

There are alignment pins that often stick when pulling a transmission out. The pins are driven into the block and sometimes seize to the aluminum bell housing of the trans.

A medium sized prybar and some rocking back and forth on the tailshaft by an assistant will get it loose generally speaking.

Just make sure the trans is strapped/chained to the jack as they sometimes come loose suddenly. Don't get crazy with rocking the tailshaft around or you can damage the input shaft, slow and persistant is best.

Sometimes one, or even both pins will stay in the bell housing when it comes free. Make sure to put them back in the block before you reinstall the trans or you might have problems with the clutch/flywheel later on because of misalignment issues.

This is assuming you also have the wiring, cables, hyd line and inspection cover disconnected. I usually double check to make sure the bell housing bolts are out before I start prying.

Edit: if the slave you bought has the "New" style connector for the hyd line from the master cylinder, do yourself a favor and switch it out with the old connector from your current slave cylinder. I just tapped out the roll pin at the bottom holding it in and switched them using the new o-ring.

I had to pull my trans back out to do this because it kept popping the master line out, couldn't even get it bled. If you look at the "New" design connector it has a single clip from the side instead of the 'fingers' on the old one. If you look carefully at it and at the end of the master line, you will wonder how they ever expected it to work.

 

How many bellhousing bolts are there? From what I can find on the internet, there are either 6 or 8, but I can only find 6, no matter how hard I look.

Also, do i have to remove torque converter bolts at all? If so, I can't figure out where they are..

 

There are no torque converter bolts on a stick shift transmission.

 

So, update: I still cannot remove the transmission. I have no idea what could possibly keepi ng it in place but it is basically frozen on there. Multiple friends have tried to help but to no avail. I cant afford to have a shop fix it, and If I can't get this thing fixed myself in the next couple of days, I have to scrap it.
Every bolt i could find is out.. Does anybody know why I can't get it off?

 

Can you directly see the very top of the bell housing? Are you positive that there isn't a bolt at the very top of the housing that you missed?

Edit: Nevermind, I see that you did remove the starter.

What about the flywheel cover and bolts? I don't know if your truck has one or not, but if so, that may be jamming things up just enough that you can't loose the transmission.

 

Also, have you considered unbolting the transmission from the bell housing, and dropping them separately? That would allow you to get the transmission out, and then you would have a "window" to the inside of the bell housing to look and see what could possibly be keeping it stuck.

 

The M5OD has an integral bellhousing.

 

So why does my chilton's manual say to remove the transmission to bell housing bolts for the M50D removal process?

 

I don't know.

I've only had my '94 with the M5OD since 1995. Between 1995 and 2013, every time I looked at it, the bellhousing was integral with the case.

I also note that the Chilton's manual says to remove the shift rods from the shift levers before removing the transmission. I don't have any shift rods or shift levers on my transmission either.

The Haynes manual says that one is to remove the transmission-to-bellhousing bolts on three- and four-speed transmissions and the transmission-to-engine bolts on five-speed transmissions. As far as the Haynes manual is concerned, removal of the M5OD is much like the process that the Chilton manual calls out for removing the ZF S5-42 and S5-47. Which is as it should be.

 

Since sometime in late 1964 or early 1965 small block fords have had six bolt bellhousings, (prior to that there were five).

The M5OD has the regular six bolts from the rear (5/8" hex head) and two from the front (10mm IIRC) on the lower edge of the dust cover.

Count the bolts you have taken out, in my experience the ones that tend to get missed are either the middle one on the driver's side, or one of the top ones.

Robert

 

I took out all six bolts and both inspection plate bolts. If there are bolts on the flywheel, I cannot see them. I'm not sure if its supposed to, but I can't get the inspection plate off either. As far as the bellhousing is concerned, broke vet is right about it being integral.

 

Grab the tailshaft and get brutal with it. lift up down and side to side. If you have a helper, get the stronger of the 2 of you back there and the other watch the seam between the eng and trans to see if it moves. If you can get a screwdriver betwqeen the 2, do that. It may help if you push the clutch pedal in while doing this.

 

Cody, the dust cover will not come off until you get both the transmission and flywheel off.

It is amazing how a bit of corrosion can stick dissimilar metals together, add in a bit of oil seepage and dust and things can get nasty.

I would block up the engine solidly with a jack and wood 2x4 under the oil pan, put a couple of ratchet straps around the frame rails to catch the transmission; then follow bashby's advice.

If the hydraulic line for the clutch is disconnected, you wont be able to use that to help.

I think if I was that far into it, I would go ahead and pull the pressure plate to check the condition of the clutch and flywheel surface.

Robert

 

Make sure first of all that the tranny ain't stuck on the body of the truck (top near the shifter). Secondly you need to put a wood block on a jack and support your engine w/ a jack. Just jack it up by the oil pan using a wood block as a buffer between the jack and the motor. Lift it up a little and try removing the trans (make sure the trans is still supported w/ a jack). Usually the problem is the engine and trans are at too great an angle to separate. Supporting the motor w/ a jack helps.