The tensioner is nothing but a spring loaded bar. So when you use your ratchet or breaker bar to pull it back with one hand, you slip the belt off a pulley with the other. The tensioner is under spring tension this whole time, and once you release the bar it will continue to rotate until it hits the stop. There is no adjustment; you simply pull the tensioner back to slip the belt back on and release. The only way for the belt tension to be wrong is if the tensioner is faulty.

 

Simply, use the breaker bar to remove the tension from the tensioner to remove belt. Then Release the breaker bar and let it go. It will simple sit without tension. Replace the alternator and then, install the new belt far enough to then, pull back on the breaker bar to slip the new belt over the tensioner wheel. Release the breaker bar and you are good to go.

I've always done it by myself. Not too bad but preferred with help.

 

Thanks for all the information and support, I really appreciate it.

Going to call Ford in the morning and see when they can get me the alternator, I'm also going to get a belt as well.

 

Just saw this and the visual helped, definitely looks easy enough:

 

This should help:

 

I am not sure about the 5.4's, but 7.3's do have a latch to hold the tensioner in the released position.

 

Thanks Tom, perfect.

 

it's very easy man. I just replaced the alt on my Excursion 3-4 days ago. it killed the battery first before I finally acknowledged the alt was the issue, so I ended up spending about $360 all told for my repair

you can get a reman alt for $220 at OReiley's. it may not be the best in the world, but it's lifetime warranty is fine with me. I can spend 15 minutes to swap in a new unit if/when it dies. Ford wanted $300 for their version


btw, the alt change itself is ridiculously easy. 15 minutes using a 1/2 ratchet and a 10mm socket. take the belt off, then use the 10mm socket and remove all 4 bolts. unclip the wire harness. install in reverse

 

I'd like to thank everyone for taking the time to post and offer advice.

My Ford dealer ordered the parts this morning and had them in about an hour. I picked them up and got to work. The repair was not difficult at all, just a little cumbersome hopping up and down, etc. Everything went smooth and the battery light did not come back on. The battery is testing at 12.84 with the truck off and 13.84 with the truck running.

After finishing the repair I was able to return the core and get the refund for that. The guys at the dealer were pleasant and gave me a discount vs. the prices they quoted when I had called. The alternator was $225.00 and the belt for $40.50, plus tax.

I feel better now that I was able to fix the problem and it was smart to change the belt while I was in there.

I wouldn't have been able to do it without the help of this forum. I'm not on here that much, but I love that people are so willing to help others. Thanks again to all that helped.

 

It is good you figured out how to do it yourself, good thing to be able to do in the future. My on voltage is right around the same as yours.(13.8v)

You have to remember to check the idler and tensioner pulley bearings also. The grease drys up and the go bad.

 

I like fixing things when I can, sometimes things work out. It was good that the light came on yesterday on the way home from work and I made some calls. Getting the parts this morning gave me the opportunity to take my time and feel relaxed because it's the weekend.

How do you check the idler and tensioner pulley bearings? Where/how do they get greased? For the most part everything was pretty clean in there, but I don't know anything about the bearings.

 

My mom didn't notice the battery light came on one time. So she drove until the car stopped. Turned out the alternator was bad and the car ran until the battery died. I put in one of my Marine batteries to get it home so I could replace the alternator that went bad. No need to pay for a tow if you don't have to.

Basically you unbolt the tensioner and idler pullies and feel how smooth the bearings are. You can feel if they are dry (no grease) or worn. (rough with play). You could really do that when they are one the truck but you have better feel with them off the truck and in your hand.

On my SD the bearings can be pressed out and new bearings pressed in. The bearings are standard sizes and in stock most places. Or you can buy the replacement pulley/bearing assembly. It is usually cheaper to just replace bearings if they are shot vs buying a new assembly. But you need a press and not damaged the shields. Some tensioner pulleys have the pulley molded over the bearing so they have to be replaced and cannot be regreased. In my experience the SD pulleys can be serviced but things change as the years go by.

On my SD and my dads both pulleys have rubber shielded bearings. If you are careful you can remove one of the shields on each bearing, add some grease and install the seal again. But you have to be careful not damage the seal. I do this all the time on various equipment. In 63k miles I have greased both bearings twice using the method I described.