302 Engine Crossmember
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 309
Likes: 9
From: Northern IL
302 Engine Crossmember
I am looking at purchasing the 289-302-351 engine crossmember from mid-fifty's to bolt into my chassis. I was looking on their website and dont see any directions as to the placement for it. I am looking to see if anybody has used this crossmember or a similar one that can provide me with measurements as to how far back into the chassis it goes so the engine fits without hitting the firewall.
I would be able to do it but I have not purchased the engine yet as this is just the first step in my restoration and the chassis and body are stored at separate locations. I know I will be using a 302 engine though as I have already made up my mind on that.
This is the one I was looking at.. Xmbr Mount Ford Small Block 221-289-302-351 Windsor - Ford F-100 Parts
Forgot...I have a 1955 F-100.
I would be able to do it but I have not purchased the engine yet as this is just the first step in my restoration and the chassis and body are stored at separate locations. I know I will be using a 302 engine though as I have already made up my mind on that.
This is the one I was looking at.. Xmbr Mount Ford Small Block 221-289-302-351 Windsor - Ford F-100 Parts
Forgot...I have a 1955 F-100.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 564
Likes: 2
From: Buffalo
<DIR>According to the link you've attached, there are pdf instructions for installation (see below). You will need an engine (or just a block), and transmission (or an empty trans case) to see how far back (from the radiator) or forward (firewall clearance, transmission crossmember placement, possibly driveshaft length issues, etc...)
There's a lot to working it all out. I'm in the process of "starting over" with another engine. I bought an IFS style crossmember (which came with front axle center measurements for placement) then we used a mock up engine block with an empty transmission and set up the placement (taking into consideration the angle of the engine, see pic). I'm using my rear axle so after the engine and transmission are bolted into place, a driveshaft will need to get fabricated by a shop.
Wally
Instructions:
1. The engine and transmission crossmembers are available for a variety of Ford and Chevy V8s and trannys. They come powdercoated and include all necessary hardware.
2. After sliding the end collars over the main tube, position the engine crossmember on the frame. Here nothing needs to be welded or bolted because the crossmember ends will rest on the frame’s lower channel as the engine is positioned. Takes an educated guess on how far forward the crossmember will need to be (this will be adjusted as needed).
3. The engine is then lowered into the truck and bolted to the crossmember. Let most of the engine’s weight settle down onto the crossmember, but keep the hoist connected for extra support. At this point you can determine whether the engine needs to be slid forward or back, making sure to consider factors such as distributor-to-firewall clearance and engine-to-radiator fit.
4. At this point you’ll also want to mock the transmission cross member in place.
</DIR>
There's a lot to working it all out. I'm in the process of "starting over" with another engine. I bought an IFS style crossmember (which came with front axle center measurements for placement) then we used a mock up engine block with an empty transmission and set up the placement (taking into consideration the angle of the engine, see pic). I'm using my rear axle so after the engine and transmission are bolted into place, a driveshaft will need to get fabricated by a shop.
Wally
Instructions:
1. The engine and transmission crossmembers are available for a variety of Ford and Chevy V8s and trannys. They come powdercoated and include all necessary hardware.
2. After sliding the end collars over the main tube, position the engine crossmember on the frame. Here nothing needs to be welded or bolted because the crossmember ends will rest on the frame’s lower channel as the engine is positioned. Takes an educated guess on how far forward the crossmember will need to be (this will be adjusted as needed).
3. The engine is then lowered into the truck and bolted to the crossmember. Let most of the engine’s weight settle down onto the crossmember, but keep the hoist connected for extra support. At this point you can determine whether the engine needs to be slid forward or back, making sure to consider factors such as distributor-to-firewall clearance and engine-to-radiator fit.
4. At this point you’ll also want to mock the transmission cross member in place.
</DIR>
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 309
Likes: 9
From: Northern IL
Thanks for the find, for some reason I didn't see it. I realize now that I won't be able to put it in for the time being as I don't have any engine or tranny for mockup. I was thinking that I could just use someone else's measurements off their frame, but didn't realize the angles I needed.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
The beauty of that crossmember is that you can leave it loose while you position your engine/trans. The brackets for the crossmember slip into the "C" channel of the frame and will hold the engine up while you move it to where you want it. If you had a MII IFS like in the pic wallster posted then you would not need a crossmember...don't let that pic confuse you.
FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 11
From: paradise, northern calif.
I traced back your web sites instruction area. I believe these are the pdf instructions for your xmember. Im sure they are redundant of what has already been posted. I have the same one (xmember) hanging in my garage for that rainy day. Please post pics of the project, good luck.
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