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1947 Powerstroke swap

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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 11:48 PM
  #1  
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From: Savage, MN
1947 Powerstroke swap

Hey all, just wanted to share the game plan I am formulating in my head for a 1947 1 ton in order to make it into a "derelict" style vehicle. Constructive comments are always welcome!

One thing I really want to do is keep everything as stock as possible, besides the drive train which I would be converting to a '97 Ford F350 Dually drive train. Which means the only way you can tell that the truck is NOT 100% original (or close to) is if you open the hood, because I want the interior of the cab to be just like it would have been straight off the assembly line with all original dash, gauge background and all that.

So first thing's first, find a '97 F350 dually with decently lower miles with a 7.3 powerstroke and a manual trans (and I'll explain why the '97 shortly). And basically take everything that makes the truck move out of it: Engine, ECU, entire wiring harness, transmission, driveshaft, rear-end, fuel tanks and pumps.

Then find a decently in shape 1947 Ford 1 ton, and because of my good heart, I will prolly part out the drive train on here, but strip the 47 of all of its wiring and drivetrain, strip it down to the frame and put the frame on jack stands, clean the frame all up and all that, body work, patching rust, floor pans if I need them, and all that, fit the 7.3 on the frame, and fabricate mounts for that, weld those in, same for the trans. get that mounted and all that, and figure out how to mount both fuel tanks securely so they look factory underneath, lay out all the wiring.

Then for the cab, once all of the structure things is sorted out go to making the gauges that came with the 47 work and why I said the 97 was because as all of you might know, the 47 has a 6v electrical system whereas the 97 has a 12v electrical system. So I was going to take the gauges from the 97 and see if I can't just fit the background of the 47 gauges to the 97 gauges and why I chose the 97 was because the temp and fuel gauges are analog whereas on the newer ones they all have different stages of settings where they sit. This way, it still works like the old gauges but is synced to the powerstroke.

Now fast forward pass the wiring and all that and to mounting the cab on the frame with the newer trans. Of course make sure the whole thing lines up and clears everything and once it's all mounted and secured down, I'm going to see if I can't find a way to make the old gear shift lever work on the new trans. or if it doesn't, I'm going to make one that looks original to the era so when you open the door it looks like a refurbished 1947 Ford truck cab.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 09:58 AM
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You have an excellent plan
 
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 10:30 AM
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I like the idea, but I would personally go a different route. Strip all the body work off the '97 and put the '47 cab and body work on it. of course one would to take into account frame width and length, also what kind of shape the older frame will be in i.e. will it flex enough or not to keep from cracking due to the extra torque. What will be the front suspension fail rate over time due to the weight of the newer motor. The fun part will be try to get both fuel tanks mounted which i presume are either 10 or 15 gallon size. looking at the frame of my 1 ton both tanks i believe wouldn't fit between the frame rails and still have clearance for the driveshaft. just some killjoy thoughts is all, will definitely be interesting to see though.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by STELLA1
I like the idea, but I would personally go a different route. Strip all the body work off the '97 and put the '47 cab and body work on it. of course one would to take into account frame width and length, also what kind of shape the older frame will be in i.e. will it flex enough or not to keep from cracking due to the extra torque. What will be the front suspension fail rate over time due to the weight of the newer motor. The fun part will be try to get both fuel tanks mounted which i presume are either 10 or 15 gallon size. looking at the frame of my 1 ton both tanks i believe wouldn't fit between the frame rails and still have clearance for the driveshaft. just some killjoy thoughts is all, will definitely be interesting to see though.
You actually bring up a lot of overlooked points. I know the width of the frame for the 97 is about right to where it will still be tucked underneath the cab and body panels. The tanks, if they're like my 96 f150, which I'm assuming they have to be because they're the same body styles are one elongated, narrow tank which is strapped to the left frame rail and the rear tank is a big, flat square that is tucked up between theframe rails just behind the bumber mounts and above the spare tire kinda hidden.

But also the frame twisting/cracking under the extra torque, if I did use the 47 frame is a big big important thing I didn't even consider, which is quite helpful, so I would think your way would be that better route. That way, I might just get the front end and cab to fit on there, and work and then probably build a flat bed with hinged, drop-down sides and rear gate or something.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 06:17 PM
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I am working on the same type of project. Instead I want to put the inline 6 Cummins. Should fit. After looking at the truck you may need to move the radiator bracket closer to the front so it can fit. Some reason there is like 6inches of open space. Post pics! I may try a 7.3 if the Cummins doesn't work.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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I agree with mounting the cab on the modern chassis as you will find no end of grief trying to keep the original frame from becoming a pretzel. But you ought to check out the criteria on registering your truck after the work is done. If the donor vehicle happens to be a write-off, the DMV might flatly reject your request, requiring you to find a non-written off frame. Another pitfall is that a complete inspection may have to be done and a new VIN for a (now) AMALGAMATED vehicle is issued. We've got a member of our car club who recently completed a similar job and was actually planning a trip pulling a car trailer/antique car to a show when the DMV came in and cancelled his tags. That was in July and he's still jumping through hoops.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 06:16 PM
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A cummins would be pretty cool, but I'm goin for a theme kinda like "50 years of work trucks" sorta thing, also a "derelict" sorta theme that I've been seeing more of lately. I love the body styles of the '97 F350, it's got a lot of characteristic, it's big, mean and it just says "I'm ready to work". But the body style of the '47 has even more characteristic where if you combine both, it'll be like "I am history. Started out as this, and I'm ready to keep up with trucks today." I don't know if people see the vehicles as actually talking but that's what I think the vehicles would say if they could talk at least.

I was raised up to have a profound gratitude and appreciation for cars and trucks because they make us do things that we normally wouldn't be able to do as easily on foot or by hand. I love the old vehicles more then the new ones because of their simplicity yet...a sort of elegance if anyone knows what I'm talking about.

Little look into my head about vehicles. Haha.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 06:39 PM
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Do you need the cab? I have one.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 06:44 PM
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From: Savage, MN
Originally Posted by geomechs
I agree with mounting the cab on the modern chassis as you will find no end of grief trying to keep the original frame from becoming a pretzel. But you ought to check out the criteria on registering your truck after the work is done. If the donor vehicle happens to be a write-off, the DMV might flatly reject your request, requiring you to find a non-written off frame. Another pitfall is that a complete inspection may have to be done and a new VIN for a (now) AMALGAMATED vehicle is issued. We've got a member of our car club who recently completed a similar job and was actually planning a trip pulling a car trailer/antique car to a show when the DMV came in and cancelled his tags. That was in July and he's still jumping through hoops.
Oh yikes...what if both vehicles were salvage titled (assuming the F350 had a straight frame still) and just put down 1997 Ford F350 on the new title and used the VIN off of that one for the majority of the vehicle because the only part touching the ground and making the whole vehicle move would be the F350, but I kept the VIN of the '47 on record as well so no one thinks I stole a junk cab?

The only parts from the '47 are the ones I want to use to make it look like a '47 which would just be the cab, front fenders and hood. The back end I'm gonna build probably a heavy duty flat bed with sides and tailgate that are locked in place by latch and locking pins, but are on hinges/removable, then mock up a rear bumper plate with all my necessary lights.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 08:38 PM
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I also like your plan. I also endorse the newer frame/cab swap. I have done a few Old Ford trucks that look very stock, even worn out, but have a modern drive train, and are extremely useable and practical. My is latest on youtube. '59 f350 with cummins 6at' Drove a '38 ford one ton express as a daily driver for 11 years in the 80's/90s. Built a '40 ford 1 1/2 ton with a 302 and power brakes, and faded paint... It's in my current avatar. That's the way I have always enjoyed the old trucks. Just my .02 fwiw..
 
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