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Depend on how much you like cutting 1/8" sheet. If you are cutting your own get several sheets of poster board (thin cardboard) in the art supply or school supply section of your favorite big box or craft store for pattern material. It's stiff enough to be easy to handle and trace around, but thin enough to easily cut with scissors or utility (boxcutter) knife, make the pattern by holding the PB up against the frame and rubbing along the edge of the frame with a dull tool (side of a box wrench works well). It will leave a perfect impression of the frame, you can decide if you want to cut along the inside or outside edge. Personally I like to inset my boxing plates about 1/8" makes a much cleaner install and a much easier weld. When welding the plates in use skip welds no more than 1" long and no closer than 6" from a previous hot weld. Skip around, side to side, top and bottom, giving them time to cool. The plates do not need to be welded in solid to be effective and will allow drainage. I also like to cut holes in the plates with a 3" hole saw placed where needed to reach bolts attached to the frame and allow access for running brake, fuel lines and wiring inside the frame. If you box solid, paint the inside of the frame and back side of the plates with weld thru primer before welding to reduce rusty water seepage and staining. Once boxed be sure to weld in crush tubes if bolting thru the frame.
Depend on how much you like cutting 1/8" sheet. If you are cutting your own get several sheets of poster board (thin cardboard) in the art supply or school supply section of your favorite big box or craft store for pattern material. It's stiff enough to be easy to handle and trace around, but thin enough to easily cut with scissors or utility (boxcutter) knife, make the pattern by holding the PB up against the frame and rubbing along the edge of the frame with a dull tool (side of a box wrench works well). It will leave a perfect impression of the frame, you can decide if you want to cut along the inside or outside edge. Personally I like to inset my boxing plates about 1/8" makes a much cleaner install and a much easier weld. When welding the plates in use skip welds no more than 1" long and no closer than 6" from a previous hot weld. Skip around, side to side, top and bottom, giving them time to cool. The plates do not need to be welded in solid to be effective and will allow drainage. I also like to cut holes in the plates with a 3" hole saw placed where needed to reach bolts attached to the frame and allow access for running brake, fuel lines and wiring inside the frame. If you box solid, paint the inside of the frame and back side of the plates with weld thru primer before welding to reduce rusty water seepage and staining. Once boxed be sure to weld in crush tubes if bolting thru the frame.
Great advise! I guess your saying don't buy the $80 precut ones.
You can buy a lot of 1/8" sheet and cutoff wheels or metal cutting saber saw blades for 80.00. Just be sure to wear heavy leather gloves and a face shield when cutting, Trips to the ER are VERY expensive and time consuming!
Here's a tip: If cutting using a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder, don't try to cut along the line like you were using a circular saw on wood. Instead hold the wheel above the line and swing it down until it cuts thru, lift it up out of the metal, position it further along the line and drop it down again, more like using a chop saw multiple times. You can buy good US made 1/16" steel cutting cut off wheels in packs of 25. 50 or 100 inexpensively on ebay (as low as .50 each). If you want the link just ask.
You can buy a lot of 1/8" sheet and cutoff wheels or metal cutting saber saw blades for 80.00. Just be sure to wear heavy leather gloves and a face shield when cutting, Trips to the ER are VERY expensive and time consuming!
Here's a tip: If cutting using a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder, don't try to cut along the line like you were using a circular saw on wood. Instead hold the wheel above the line and swing it down until it cuts thru, lift it up out of the metal, position it further along the line and drop it down again, more like using a chop saw multiple times. You can buy good US made 1/16" steel cutting cut off wheels in packs of 25. 50 or 100 inexpensively on ebay (as low as .50 each). If you want the link just ask.
Here are a couple of pictures of the frame "straightened", I think it looks pretty good now.
Question.... Do I need to cut out the cross member that Is next to the steering case? I am boxing the frame to get ready for a IFS and Yes, I know I need to remove the gear case to do that.
Question 2... I am installing a 350 Chev. into her. What engine mounts should I be looking at with the job I'm doing?
You can buy a lot of 1/8" sheet and cutoff wheels or metal cutting saber saw blades for 80.00. You can buy good US made 1/16" steel cutting cut off wheels in packs of 25. 50 or 100 inexpensively on ebay (as low as .50 each). If you want the link just ask.
Ax, I would like the link! You should also read Ax's welding tips - he gives you a great tip of easy grind welding wire in it. I would give you the thread title but I'm on cell and don't have it handy. have fun
I think you can get it even straighter with a little more work, will make boxing easier.
Mid Fifty www.midfifty,com has a selection of mounts. I used their tubular mount to put in my SBC, but my frame is not boxed. I am using a dropped beam axle and Toyota PS in my 56.