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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 10:46 AM
  #16  
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I would cut the crusty line (it's already junk, it's going to spin & break as soon as you try to remove the fitting anyway - and it would allow you to use a greater variety of tools).
Secure the fitting (red arrow) with a wrench and use either a box-end wrench, or a socket (or whatever... cough, cough.. vise-grips... cough...) on the outside fitting (black arrow).

You'll be fine. Good Luck.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 11:18 AM
  #17  
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If it were mine, I would probably cut that line off at the nut and take the radiator to a repair shop and let them replace the fitting in the radiator. I'm not sure I see any reason to put a brand new line into a rusty connector...
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 12:11 PM
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You can't replace just the fitting... It's sealed where it goes into the cooler with some stuff that makes loctite look like grease. It doesn't come apart niceley. It's part of the cooler assembly package and not available separately. And ford uses oddball styles as it is. It will be fine.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 12:34 PM
  #19  
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Last year I started with the rusty tranny line going into the radiator. After I fixed this one I started looking at the others. I ended up replacing them during the summer.

Too much salt used here in Ohio.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 07:29 AM
  #20  
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Well in the process of doig the deed. The connector came out of the cooler. Took it to the dealer and talked with parts guy and a tech. They do sell just the connector and you can put it back in the cooler. The line was about $30 and the connector was $24.



Other line won't be in until Tues. I will get it wed and start the repair.

Got to say I like working on this truck. Don't need to lift it to work under it.

I appreciate everyones help.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 10:59 AM
  #21  
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I'm glad Ford finally started selling their oddball fittings separately. Make sure that you do not over torque it and that the gasket between the actual cooler and the inside of the tank does not slip away.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 05:44 PM
  #22  
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So I finally did the deed. Replaced 3 of the 4 lines. Was the dirtiest job I have ever done. Saw some fluid around the drain plug so I drained the pan and put in a new one.

So far I have put 8 quarts of fluid in and the front of the dipstick is covered, but there is barely anything on the back. Still trying to figure it out. Anyone got any tips on reading trans fluid level?

Anyway, went to inspect for leaks and one of the bolts on the pan is leaking. Don't know how I missed that. Guess I need a new gasket. Should I reuse the trans fluid I just put in or just replace it?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 06:01 PM
  #23  
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Wow. 9 quarts and still no reading on the dipstick. Didn't think I drained that much out.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 06:42 PM
  #24  
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Trans pan gasket is reusable. Just make sure all the bolts are tight.

I can't remember how many qts it takes for a drain and fill.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 07:47 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by hav24wheel
Trans pan gasket is reusable. Just make sure all the bolts are tight.

I can't remember how many qts it takes for a drain and fill.
Just checked again. 9 quarts was full cold but still way low when running. Added #10.

The entire pan gasket is leaking now. Still reuse? Just tighten bolts? New gasket?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 07:58 PM
  #26  
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To check proper level it HAS to be running. A non running reading is useless.

As for the gasket, if you do replace it, buy a OE style and not cork
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 08:42 PM
  #27  
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Do NOT overtighten the bolts. Use a torque wrench.
You should be able to re-use the original gasket. I dropped my pan earlier this year and had no issues with leaks.
The readings are sometimes off when fluid is still running down the dipstick into the transmission (right after you've filled it) Wait for a bit.
You have to measure it with engine running.
When you replaced the lines, did the cooler empty out as well ? That might explain why you drained more than usual.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 09:56 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by az_r2d1
Do NOT overtighten the bolts. Use a torque wrench.
You should be able to re-use the original gasket. I dropped my pan earlier this year and had no issues with leaks.
The readings are sometimes off when fluid is still running down the dipstick into the transmission (right after you've filled it) Wait for a bit.
You have to measure it with engine running.
When you replaced the lines, did the cooler empty out as well ? That might explain why you drained more than usual.
It took 11 quarts to fill. I had the lines off the radiator/cooler and the drain plug out of the Pam for a few days. All the lines dripped for a couple days. Plus was probably low to start since was leaking.

I think I am going to drop the pan and get a new gasket and reuse the fluid. What's the torque for the bolts?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 10:13 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by gmammakn
It took 11 quarts to fill. I had the lines off the radiator/cooler and the drain plug out of the Pam for a few days. All the lines dripped for a couple days. Plus was probably low to start since was leaking.

I think I am going to drop the pan and get a new gasket and reuse the fluid. What's the torque for the bolts?
132 INCH pounds (inch,NOT foot lbs)
So that's definitely not very tight at all.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 10:18 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by gmammakn
What's the torque for the bolts?
11 - 12ft lbs.

Stewart
 
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