I have a 1994 f150 300 4.9 2wd. I went to check the timing and for 30 to 60 seconds it is steady at 20 btc then it drops to 16 and then moves back to 22 then 14 then 16 at Idle. It does this with the spout connected and with it disconnected. Then when reving to 2500 to 3000 rpms, I'm guessing because there is no tachometer, it jumps to 30 btc for a millisecond and back down to 16 it does not gradually climb. Then when I gradually let off the rpm's it jumps up to 30 at the same sweet spot for a millisecond and then back to 16 btc.

I read someone else had this problem and was given advice to check the Nylon timing gears and and to check the bushings in the distributor.
The thread was never concluded so I don't know what he ended up finding.

If you guys have the same diagnosis could you also include a method by which I can check these Items I am green around the neck .
Thanks.

 

How does the truck run? You do realize that the timing does not stay static at all times right? There are conditions that will allow the timing to vary depending on loads and driving conditions.

 

Was the engine up to normal operating temperature when you checked it? Because if not, that's one reason why it would not stay steady for more than a few seconds.

When an engine is cold-started, the computer has preset values that it uses just for the sake of starting. As the engine runs and warms up, the computer begins to take in information from the various sensors and this, in turn, can cause changes in things like timing and fuel/air ratios.

But if the engine is up to temp, the computer isn't trying to compensate for the cold conditions, and it's running based on it's programming.

If it is up to temp, my first thought is pull codes. Even if there's no CEL, codes can be present.

 

It has very little pulling power and sputters a lot. I ran codes and have overdrive switch problems that I can fix by manually hitting the overdrive switch but no other coded came up. My timing either way is too far advanced wouldn't you agree? So I would like to get it right or at least check it and I don't trust what I am seeing.

 

No it wasn't up to temp. Thanks I'll try again tomorrow.

 

How many miles does this engine have on it? I have had so much slop in the distributor gear that I could not hold time on vehicles. There is a roll pin on gear on the distributor that can actually wear and cause that gear to slip a small amount which causes a great amount of movement in the timing. You also mentioned the timing gears and they will wear also that can cause changes in the timing, it is not difficult to pull the distributor to check the gear, just make sure and mark the location so you can reinstall exactly the same.

Also as was mentioned, it needs to be a normal operating temp to take an accurate timing reading.

 

The radiator hose was tight so I am sure I have it up to temp. I checked timing with and without the spout unplugged and the results were pretty much Identical. I goosed down during the timing check it jumped up to 30btdc then down to 5btdc it climbed a little gradual but when hitting about 3500 rpm's it jumped down to 5btdc. It was pretty much Identical with or without the spout plugged in. I am using an inductive timing light. Would this results point to the computer (EEC) because it does the same with the spout plugged in?

I want to make sure I have the spout correct because it looks much different on my 93 f250, so here is a picture.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1380224453

I ran codes again because it wasn't up to temp when I ran those earlier.
KOEO first set was 111 clear
Second set 628 634. Yesterday I unstuck the overdrive button button these codes are still there. I thought maybe I have to reset the computer but I thought the second set was not stored codes.
KOER I pulled 129 then I plugged the spout back in and this went away on retest. I also got 225 and 632.

I also have two battery warning lights on the dash the one that says Amp has always blinked.
I thought we might get these codes and warning light fixed before tackling the timing but I am not sure thats why I come to you experts. Thanks again.
To remind you of why I started checking things is that I get no towing (pulling) power and no Goose down power when in motion.

 

The timing should remain locked at the base timing with the SPOUT removed. Are you sure you removed the SPOUT jumper?

Reference the photo below from subford:

 

I don't know if the SPOUT had multiple locations on the 1994 or not, but if you have a distributor, it can be located in the wiring harness that hooks into the distributor module.

 

I've never seen a spout connector like you have there Archuriel. Normally you have what RLA has shown. Other vehicles may have something like this:




Either way, it should be only once circuit. Either one wire being disconnected, or two wires with a jumper that you pull out.

 

I found it taped up and hidden under the tape on the drivers side fender. Here is a pic for the next person.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1380570196

Thanks for the help. I will re-check the timing.