I am having trouble getting my new Steering Coupling installed. I am sure this will end up being easy, but for the life of me, I can figure it out. I have read every post I can find and no luck.

I have a 65 with manual steering and automatic transmission.

I am posting four pictures here:

https://picasaweb.google.com/jenphil...IrSkMSTiuOnGw#

I got the old coupling out (last two pictures) and can get the new coupling on the steering box (first picture). But I cannot figure out how to get the 12 point 7/8ths screw through the steering coupling once it is on.

It appears to be catching on the threads. You can see the arm of the steering box in the second picture and hopefully you can also see both grooves.

It would appear that the intention is for the screw to ride in the groove that goes around the middle. But I am not sure what the purpose is of the groove that goes up and down. I thought I might need to line up the screw with this opening, but I have tried every tooth around it and the screw still catches.

There is also a small bump out on the bottom of the coupling, but even if I line the bump with the groove, it still catches.

I have checked the new coupling against the old one and it appears to be a match. I also tried using the old screw and it catches as well.

What is the trick I am missing? If I can't get the screw past the threads, there is no way to get it to mate with the other side of the coupling to install it.

And one more question while I am at it. The coupling has two pins one is larger than the other. The bottom of the steering column has two openings that from the other forum posts, it sounds like are intended as the fail safe if the coupling fails. They seem to be the same size. Does it matter where these openings are aligned to the pins?

Thanks so much for any help,
Ben

 

I'll include a picture of what mine looked like when I did a test fit (a difference being mine was being installed on a rebuilt Ford/Saginaw power steering box). There are two sizes of "rag joint" couplers - large and small diameter posts. Are you sure you have the correct one? Number Dummy will hopefully come along and provide the technical specifications and information as to which chassis numbers had which. The coupler should just slide onto the gearbox shaft and the bolt should start through the threaded shoulder. Will it start satisfactorily without being on the shaft? You may have to squeeze it or make other adjustments to it to get it to line up properly. Get everything lined up before you put it on the shaft and then try not to lose the alignment. If it's too far out of alignment, maybe you were sold a poorly made coupler and need to exchange it. Sorry this isn't much help. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the reply, I actually used your previous posts on this subject to help me get started.

I added three more pictures at the same link above. They show the old and new parts. I think I am good with the part. It is a Dennis Carpenter Reproductions part that I bought at the NPD warehouse. I am lucky to have good parts sources because I live in Charlotte.

Part number C5TZ-3A525-A and it is clearly marked as a 65 part. Plus it matches the one taken off. I guess it is possible that at some point the steering box or steering shaft were replaced, but I assumed since it was a match to the old one I was good.

I can easily thread the screw through the part when it is not on the truck. I can also easily put the part on the shaft when the screw is not in the part.

So for you.....you just put it on the shaft wherever it was most convenient? No consideration of the groove that runs up and down the shaft of the steering box?

Thanks,
Ben

 

C5TZ-3524-H (replaced C5TZ-3524-F) .. Steering Shaft & Flange-35 5/8" long / > > Flange has (1) 1/2" slot and (1) 3/4" slot. < <

1965/66 F100/250 2WD with manual steering. P/S was not available in 1965 F100/250's. 4WD's were not available with P/S until 1973.
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C5TZ-3A525-A .. Steering Coupler-Larger pin is .41" O.D.

1965 F100/250 2WD - 1966 F100/250 2WD before serial number 900,001.
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C6TZ-3A525-A .. Steering Coupler-Larger pin is .56" O.D.

1966 F100/250 2WD from serial number 900,001 / 1967/68 F100/250 2WD & F350.

Serial number is the last six digits of the VIN

 

It sounds like you bought the right part from reputable people. Having said that, I bought one that looked just like yours (the one in my picture) and it broke because my shaft and gearbox were misaligned. (The misalignment happened during the process of changing from manual steering to power.) It took a good alignment shop to figure out my problem and he replaced that one with a more heavy duty one that he obtained - so there are better ones than that one available. Since you have two bolts to experiment with, the bolt from your old coupler and the bolt that came in the new one, try the old one and see if it will work better, if it's not too screwed up. If it still won't start, take a file and taper the bolt end all the way around to help it start easier. Lube the bolt and the coupler so that they will be more cooperative. As far as alignment goes, make sure your front wheels are straight. The coupler should be on the gearbox input shaft such as your clamping bolt is at 12 o'clock. The clamping bolt should slide down the perpendicular groove in the input shaft. Can't remember if the parallel less deep groove has any importance. The two studs only fit one way with the steering shaft so the two bolts/nuts hold that alignment in place. If your steering wheel is no longer straight, it's (usually) a simple matter to take it off and reclock it. It's been a couple of years since I did mine and my memory sucks. Hope this helps. Good luck!

 

OK, so I figured I would post an update so that if anyone else ever reads this, they know how this was resolved.

It turns out that the part I purchased was bad. After numerous attempts to make it fit, I finally re-installed the bad part as a test and had none of the troubles that I was having with the new one. That made me examine the screw holes on the end that clamps to the steering box shaft and I realized that the angle was causing the screw to be directed into the shaft.

Took the part back to NPD along with the old one, they agreed right away it was defective and gave me a new one without any hassle. The new one went on without issue.

<O</OThe only remaining questions I have is in regards to the flange at the end of the Steering Shaft.

<O</OBill,

<O</OYou provided the steering shaft flange openings and mine DO NOT match. My openings are ¾ of an inch and 1 inch wide. There is a good possibility that the shaft has been replaced. It also seems to be a little too short to fully reach the rag joint and so the joint is flexed to form the connection.

<O</OCan you confirm if this is a later model steering shaft…perhaps intended for a power steering box and therefore a little shorter?

<O</OThanks again for the help from both of you and even more so all the other replies you have given, which have been a great help when researching and resolving other issues.
<O</O

Ben<O</O

 

3524 Steering Shafts:

Left/Right upper: 1964/72 Ford Truck Parts Catalog / Left/Right lower: 1973/79 Ford Light Truck Parts Catalog (Left includes 3A525 steering couplers).