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Here's that vid.
Now mind you, I bench bled this thing first and I'll be dipped in mud if it didn't look perfect.
But obviously when it gets the full stroke on the truck, something ain't right.
That two mc's in a row.
Can't happen right?
That's weird. I've never heard of bleeding the MC sounding like a leaf blower.
Two bad MCs. figure the odds? No matter... i will forever be leery of OEM prop and dist. blocks/valves.
2x with CPP... I wish I lived close to a decent supply house. Yall SoCal guys live in gearhead paradise... CPP, OPG, Inland Empire Driveline, Marlo's Frame & Alignment, Westech,....
Hey Marc, looking at that master cylinder I would say you got a bad MC.
What really catches my eye, besides all the air in the lines, is look how the front reservoir level rises when you stroke the thing. That just looks plain wrong.
EDIT: Maybe I'm wrong. That's the drum brake side.
Hey Marc, looking at that master cylinder I would say you got a bad MC.
What really catches my eye, besides all the air in the lines, is look how the front reservoir level rises when you stroke the thing. That just looks plain wrong.
I agree Mike, there's something wrong there.
I'm figuring these got made right before quittin time.
Fishin is great Marc. I traded my boat for a quad. Now he brings me fish and crab. I
don't even have to get off the couch unless I want a deer, or a beer.
I agree Mike, there's something wrong there.
I'm figuring these got made right before quittin time.
I think that your bleeding tubes are too long. If you watch on the back stroke it seems the air shows up way back on the stroke, almost at the top of the pedal. That tells me that you don't have enough stroke to clear the air in a pump.
I use a set of cut off steel lines bent as tight as possible and end about 3/8 of an inch into the fluid. It makes a little mess but they bleed immediately.
I also use the catch can method to bleed the calipers and wheel cylinders. I put Never-Seize on the threads so they seal then open the bleeder 1/8th of a turn. Then I run a tube from the bleeder to a bottle with brake fluid in it. The end of the tube must be down in the fluid for this to work.
Then just pump the brakes as if you are bench bleeding.
I've never had this fail. Just don't pump the MC dry...
Thanks for the thoughts but I'm gonna respectfully disagree.
The pistons should only be moving fluid one way (simplistic I know).
Because you saw the bubbles go backwards that tells me an o ring or something may be on wrong.
Notice there were some strokes that got full flow and it was mostly air.
Also I bench bled it without using these tubes before.
I only used these so I could see the flow.
I have bled with these tubes before and it worked fine.
I agree with all the rest.
I've never had a failure till now either.
Rebuilt parts are not what they used to be. I've had two noisy saginaw steering pumps in a row. Both shoty rebuilds. Buy new if you can, rebuilt in China seems the way most parts are going these days.
It has a proportioning valve built into it (how's that for not using up space HIO)
They told me the line ports are actually on the bottom.
Talked to their guys about it for a bit.
Then got it FedEx overnighted to me.
Rogue I'm still thinking about your to long comment.
Although I don't think they're to long (I've actually seen guys use longer ones) if you do have a spotty mc I think you expose it more if the tubes are longer.
If you go back and look at the vid you can see that every couple strokes it gets a big load of air. There is no place for it to do that unless it's through the piston bore.
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