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E40D troubles

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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 06:45 AM
  #16  
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From: Easton,Ks
The red C163 plugs two wires are:
Wire number 359 a gray wire with a red stripe going to pin number 46 of the PCM and it is the sensor return wire (SIG RTN) that passes through the PCM and then to the negative post of the battery (ground).

Wire number 658 a pink wire with a light green stripe going to pin number 17 of the PCM and is for the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) in the dash cluster. This is the wire that the code reader reads also for the codes.

The gray C162 plug with one wire is:
Wire number 209 a white wire with a purple stripe going to pin number 48 of the PCM and it is the Self-Test Input (STI) wire. When this wire is grounded the PCM will go into the self-test mode and flash the code on the MIL wire. This wire is also plugged into the code reader or just grounded or jumped to pin #2 (359) wire of the C163 plug.

PCM: Powertrain Control Module (Computer).
STI: Self-Test Input. A dedicated circuit used to initiate the PCM Self-Test.
MIL: Malfunction Indicator Lamp.
SIG RTN: Signal Return. A dedicated sensor ground circuit that is common to two or more sensors.





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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 10:58 AM
  #17  
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Hey Subford I cant thank you enough Ill ground the single wire and see if I get any codes. Ill post what I find again thank you.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 10:02 PM
  #18  
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Grey Plug

Ok I got off late so it was dark outside when I got back to the office.
first thing I did was put the key in the ignition and turn it to the run position, I noticed the OD off light and check engine light flashed as i turned the key to run position but when i hit the run position all i had was Batt and wait to start lights, I could not get the CK engine light to stay on. it only flashed once on the way to the run position. turned key off and grounded the grey connector wire turned the key on and nothing not a OD off light or a Ck. engine light, checked several times the connection and I am getting nothing, I am not sure how these light work on my 99 F350 Ck engine or service engine soon lights come on and stay on in the run position not the OD off light it flashes on the way to run position. so if i did the selt test correctly i am getting nothing I feel as if we are on to something. I have worked on forklifts my whole adult life, honestly other than servicing my autos I never work on trucks or cars and untill the last few years Forklifts never had ecm or pcm or even O2 sensors and elect forklifts well they are another beast all together, so bear with me I am good on lifts and I can be good on Trucks and Cars
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 07:43 AM
  #19  
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From: Easton,Ks
You might want to read this link about codes:
1994 Turbo IDI Ford 350.... E40D trouble - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

/
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 07:59 AM
  #20  
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From: Easton,Ks
Getting back to your problem of hard shifting you may also have a bad PSOM or another item on the plugs into the VSS wires that run from the VSS to the PSOM.
You can try unplugging the other items and see how it shifts.
The PSOM sends the speed information to the PCM and the PCM uses this information to shift the E4OD.
Does your speedometer OK?

The VSS is called the rear axle sensor in the diagram below:
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 09:43 AM
  #21  
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The speeometer works good never had a problem with it, and I replaced the vss, but still had trouble so i took it to ford and they said it was the vss I think it still had the old code still in the memory, but they changed it anyway and i didnt even get a mile away and the same problem started up again, so I went back and then they said the TPS was bad but they didnt have the tool needed to set the TPS????, so I gave up on them and found this form and I replaced the TPS myself and set it to 1.2 volts at idle and 4.05 volts at full throttle, drove it a week it was perfect and then it started to netural out in 3rd but not all the time it just picks the worst time to do that. so after my failed attempt to get the codes I am going to purchase the scan tool, But I was wondering should the CK engine light be on with the key in the run position? cause mine is not and only a quick flash when i turn the key to the run position?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 09:52 AM
  #22  
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From: Easton,Ks
Sounds like you have a bad Transmission Range (TR) sensor.
It is located on the drivers side of the transmission.
Make sure you line up the marks on it to adjust it.

Note also this can be caused by the wrong filter in the transmission. If you have a 4X4 and someone put a 2 wheel filter in it, it can do this also.

Both of the above can cause it to go into neutral.

The TR sensor:


/
 
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 11:37 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by subford
Make sure you line up the marks on it to adjust it.
The marks are aligned with the transmission in neutral.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 10:57 PM
  #24  
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Sorry guys I was away most of the weekend, Well I replaced the netural switch and also installed a home made heat shield on the right side, also disconnected the batteries for a few hrs. in as little as 13 mile she went netural in 3rd gear and started shifting hard and erratic I never got a OD light flash, after stopping two times and shutting her down she started shifting again harsh but she went through all the gears, I ordered a scanner and I will have it in hand tomorrow after work but after doing the self test and not getting as much as a blink I dont have much hope it will tell me any thing. I am wondering this truck does not have a tach so I have no idea if the signal from the senser is reaching the pcm is there a test i can do to put that worry aside? the wires to the pickup look kind of rough or old looking i guess, also is there a place I can send the pmc and have it tested I looked around a little yesterday and called a few auto stores and no one had it or could get it for the diesel? thanks guys I have only begun to fight this truck will be repaired one way or another and I will pass what I learn on to anyone that needs it.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 06:50 AM
  #25  
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From: Easton,Ks
As far as the PCM you can take it out and open it up. Look for any leakage around any of the electronic capacitors. Any leakage may have also damaged a trace.
If they have leaked or are bulging you can clean the PC board, replace the electronic capacitors and bridge any gaps in the traces.
I know of at least six posters on this site that have done this and it fixed there PCM problem. If you send it in to have it repaired that is about all that they would do to it.

Also look for any burnt or loose parts on the PC board. Sometimes the crystal will brake loose and can be re-soldered. A loose crystal can stop the clock in the PCM from running.


The signal from the VSS can be looked at with a scope or you can check the voltage or frequency it puts out at 30 MPH.

A rear end with bad bearings or loose tone wheel can make the transmission shift hard also but I would not think it would make it go into neutral.

As far as anything inside the E4OD I will leave that up to Mark.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 07:49 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by subford
Not sure why you are talking about the tachometer or its sensor as it does not have any output to the PCM or the transmission.
Yes it does! The RPM sensor DOES input to the PCM. Without that signal the PCM isn't going to shift the trans correctly, if it all.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 08:30 AM
  #27  
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
Yes it does! The RPM sensor DOES input to the PCM. Without that signal the PCM isn't going to shift the trans correctly, if it all.
Yes you are right. I do not know what I was thinking, it comes in on pins #4 & 44 but it is not in any of the wiring diagrams that I have for the E4OD.
Just got up when I wrote the above and have edited it out.



/
 
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 09:13 AM
  #28  
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From: Easton,Ks
Come to think of it I have heard of someone that either grounded the self-test output (STO pin #17) wire or by putting battery power on it and the the computer would not put out error codes anymore.



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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 06:47 PM
  #29  
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Ok I got a scanner and attached to the truck, I made a video because well maybe im a idiot but I can only make out the 23 code, maybe someone else can figure out what is going on here I first performed scan without the throttle pushed to the floor, then with the throttle pushed to the floor the video runs together but you should hear me saying testing with foot on the floor I am going to post in a seperate reply because I dont know if it will post correctly. thanks everybody
 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 08:04 PM
  #30  
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Checkenginelight_zpsb8b58514.mp4 Video by cjames4957 | Photobucket
 
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