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C1145 ABS Code - Replaced Part and Still Problem!

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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 05:02 PM
  #16  
Yahiko's Avatar
Yahiko
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From: Spanaway
Ok,
I'll have a look into that when and if the rain stops for more than
a few minutes.

Sean

BTW are you going to place a pin on the map?
And YES I know I am pimping the map.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 01:40 PM
  #17  
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OK... After watching a Youtube Video on how to measure the Ohms, I tested both wires. I pushed the Tip of the Multimeter Lead into each Receptacle in the Plug and shaved a very small amount of casing off of each wire right before the plug at the ABS Module. Both wires measured Good at 0.6 Ohms... What next?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 03:59 PM
  #18  
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Where are you taking your mesurements? What I mean by that question is where are each end of the leads on the meter are placing them to achieve that reading? I will assume that you are placing one end of the lead on the ABS connector, and the other end to the corresponding wheel speed sensor connector (on the harness end) correct? If both are reading less than 5 ohms, and assuming the sensor is good, that leaves the ABS module has the only possibility.
BUT.............

....... I would NOT jump the gun to replace it until I connected IDS (or equivalent scan tool) and monitored all three wheel speeds while driving, to confirm your R/FRONT is in fact offline, or not reading. I would also try to load test both circuits by wiring in a large sealed beam type headlight bulb one, and the power source on the other end (a 12 volt battery).
 
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 09:16 PM
  #19  
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The Joy of Wiring LOL

A Headache every time
 
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 09:28 PM
  #20  
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Yahiko
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From: Spanaway
Originally Posted by BLADE35
The Joy of Wiring LOL

A Headache every time
I have fun doing wiring.

One Man's poison is an other man's pleasure

Sean
 
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 10:07 PM
  #21  
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Wiring and electrical work is not voodoo magic like some think.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 10:34 PM
  #22  
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From: Spanaway
The key is a logical process.
You have to take one step at a time and not jump
over something and assume that it is good.
Good basic tools help.

Sean
 
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 10:56 PM
  #23  
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I know its not Bad and this computer on these trucks helps Dial you in

But you guys remember the first time you had to figure it out

Throw a relay into a circuit and Most are Toast figuring that out
 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 12:16 AM
  #24  
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I used this info below from the shop manual on my truck to troubleshoot. Funny thing is, I was getting good readings and decided to just swap the ABS sensor from Left to Right on my 2WD F250 (not 4x4). I cleared the ABS light/codes and it hasn't come back in 2000 miles. Imagine that... When I was having a problem, I could watch my Left Front inlet valve state would go 1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 0. If I hit my brakes when it was at 1, they would feel spongy and drag. I'm with m-chan, I don't throw parts at my truck unless I'm at a complete loss. (If special tools are required to get to the next step, then I might throw a part at it) I took all the measurements I could and still didn't go with a new sensor. Someone else suggested swapping them from left to right and it worked! lol Maybe the connector wasn't seated or something? Who knows.
Just posting this: This is what I am using to troubleshoot C1155

Since I don't have the special tool, I will be skipping to D4


Pinpoint Test D: DTCs C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF), C1175 (REAR) — Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure

Normal Operation

The active wheel speed sensors generate a square wave signal that is sent to the anti-lock brake system (ABS) module. The wheel speed sensor circuitry connects to the ABS module through 2 wires and a connector at each wheel speed sensor. When the ignition is turned to the RUN position, the ABS module carries out a self-test by sending a reference voltage to all of the wheel speed sensors and their circuitry to determine if they are functional.
Voltage and ground signals are supplied to the wheel speed sensors from the ABS module.
  • Possible Causes
  • Circuit open
  • Circuit shorted
  • Wheel speed sensor
  • ABS module
PINPOINT TEST D: DTCs C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF), C1175 (REAR) — WHEEL SPEED SENSOR INPUT CIRCUIT FAILURE

NOTICE: Use the flex probe kit for all test connections to prevent damage to the wiring terminals. Do not use standard multimeter probes.
<table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" width="96%"> <tbody> <tr> <th>Test Step </th> <th>Result / Action to Take </th></tr> <tr> <td> D1 CHECK FOR FAULT REPEATABILITY </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • NOTE: Both circuits must be checked for each DTC.
  • Connect the scan tool.
  • Enter the following diagnostic mode on the scan tool: Clear the Continuous DTCs.
  • Drive the vehicle at least 16 km/h (10 mph).
  • Retrieve and document continuous DTCs.
  • Is DTC C1145, C1155 or C1175 retrieved?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
If the active wheel speed sensor tool is available, GO to D2 . If the active wheel speed sensor tool is not available, GO to D4 .

No
If any other DTCs are retrieved, GO to the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index. </td></tr> <tr> <td> D2 CHECK THE ABS MODULE OUTPUT USING THE SPECIAL TOOL </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • Ignition OFF.
  • Disconnect: Suspect Wheel Speed Sensor.
  • Connect the special tool to the wheel speed sensor connectors.
  • Ignition ON.
  • Select the correct system polarity on the special tool and turn the special tool power switch to the ON position.
  • Is the module output LED illuminated?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
GO to D3 .

No
GO to D6 . </td></tr> <tr> <td> D3 CHECK THE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR OUTPUT WITH THE SPECIAL TOOL </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • Raise the suspect wheel until it can spin freely. Refer to Section 100-02 .
  • While monitoring the special tool, slowly spin the suspect wheel.
  • Do the sensor output LEDs illuminate and flash and is the current overload LED not illuminated?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
The system is operating correctly at this time. The concern may have been caused by a loose or corroded connector. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

No
If the current level LED is not illuminated and the sensor output LEDs do not illuminate or if the current level LED is illuminated red, INSTALL a new wheel speed sensor. For the front wheel speed sensor, REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) or Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Four Wheel Drive (4WD) in this section. For the rear wheel speed sensor, REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Rear in this section. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

If the current level LED is not illuminated and the sensor output LEDs illuminate green but do not flash, INSPECT the wheel speed sensor tone ring and INSTALL new if necessary. If the tone ring is OK, INSTALL a new wheel speed sensor. For the front wheel speed sensor, REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) or Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Four Wheel Drive (4WD) in this section. For the rear wheel speed sensor, REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Rear in this section. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. </td></tr> <tr> <td> D4 CHECK FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • NOTE: Both circuits must be checked for each DTC.
  • Ignition OFF.
  • Disconnect: ABS Module C135.
  • Disconnect: Suspect Wheel Speed Sensor.
  • Ignition ON.
  • Measure the voltage between ABS module connector, harness side and ground, as follows:

    <table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <th align="center" valign="bottom">DTC </th> <th align="center" valign="bottom">ABS Module Connector-Pin </th> <th align="center" valign="bottom">Circuit </th></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1145 (RF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-26 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">514 (YE/RD) </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1145 (RF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-27 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">516 (YE/BK) </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1155 (LF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-12 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">521 (TN/OG) </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1155 (LF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-13 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">522 (TN/BK) </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1175 (rear) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-42 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">523 (RD/PK) </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1175 (rear) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-41 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">519 (LG/BK) </td></tr></tbody></table>
  • Is voltage present?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
REPAIR the circuit(s) in question. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

No
GO to D5 . </td></tr> <tr> <td> D5 CHECK FOR A SHORT TO GROUND </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • NOTE: Both circuits must be checked for each DTC.
  • Ignition OFF.
  • Measure the resistance between ABS module connector, harness side and ground, as follows:

    <table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <th align="center" valign="bottom">DTC </th> <th align="center" valign="bottom">ABS Module Connector-Pin </th> <th align="center" valign="bottom">Circuit </th></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1145 (RF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-26 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">514 (YE/RD) </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1145 (RF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-27 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">516 (YE/BK) </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1155 (LF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-12 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">521 (TN/OG) </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1155 (LF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-13 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">522 (TN/BK) </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1175 (rear) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-42 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">523 (RD/PK) </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1175 (rear) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-41 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">519 (LG/BK) </td></tr></tbody></table>
  • Are the resistances greater than 10,000 ohms?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
GO to D6 .

No
REPAIR the circuit(s) in question. CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation. </td></tr> <tr> <td> D6 CHECK FOR AN OPEN </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • NOTE: Both circuits must be checked for each DTC.
  • Ignition OFF.
  • Disconnect: ABS Module C135.
  • Disconnect: Suspect Wheel Speed Connector.
  • Measure the resistance between ABS module C135, harness side and suspected wheel speed sensor connector, harness side, as follows:

    <table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <th align="center" valign="bottom">DTC </th> <th align="center" valign="bottom">Circuit </th> <th align="center" valign="bottom">ABS Module Connector-Pin </th> <th align="center" valign="bottom">Wheel Speed Sensor Connector-Pin </th></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1145 (RF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">514 (YE/RD) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-26 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C160-1 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1145 (RF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">516 (YE/BK) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-27 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C160-2 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1155 (LF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">521 (TN/OG) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-12 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C150-1 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1155 (LF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">522 (TN/BK) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-13 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C150-2 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1175 (rear) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">523 (RD/PK) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-42 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C455-2 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1175 (rear) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">519 (LG/BK) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-41 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C455-1 </td></tr></tbody></table>
  • Are the resistances less than 5 ohms?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
GO to D7 .

No
REPAIR the circuit(s) in question. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. </td></tr> <tr> <td> D7 CHECK FOR SHORTED WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUITS </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • Measure the resistance between suspect front wheel speed sensor pins, harness side with the meter in the 10 megaohm range.

  • Measure the resistance between rear wheel speed sensor pins, harness side with the meter in the 10 megaohm range.

  • Is there any continuity?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
REPAIR the circuit(s) in question. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

No
GO to D8 . </td></tr> <tr> <td> D8 CHECK THE ABS MODULE OUTPUT </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • Connect: ABS Module C135.
  • Ignition ON.
  • Measure the voltage between the suspect front wheel speed sensor pins, harness side.

  • Measure the voltage between the rear wheel speed sensor pins, harness side.

  • Are the voltages greater than 10 volts?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
INSTALL a new wheel speed sensor. For the front wheel speed sensor, REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) or Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Four Wheel Drive (4WD) in this section. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. For the rear wheel speed sensor, REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Rear in this section. CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to D9 . </td></tr> <tr> <td> D9 CHECK FOR CORRECT ABS MODULE OPERATION </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • Disconnect the ABS connector.
  • Check for:
    • corrosion.
    • pushed-out pins.
  • Connect the ABS connector and make sure that it is seated correctly.
  • Operate the system and verify the concern is still present.
  • Is the concern still present?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
INSTALL a new ABS module. REFER to Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module in this section. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

No
The system is operating correctly at this time. The concern may have been caused by a loose or corroded connector. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. </td></tr></tbody></table><table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" width="96%"><tbody></tbody></table>
 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 12:19 AM
  #25  
99ExpyProblems's Avatar
99ExpyProblems
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This is what I am using to troubleshoot C1233, If I haven't already fixed it with C1155. As you can see, it says if C1155 is also present, go to pinpoint test D, which is already posted above.

Pinpoint Test E: DTC C1222 — Wheel Speed Mismatch, DTCs C1233 (LF), C1234 (RF), C1236 (Rear) — Wheel Speed Sensor Signal Fault
Normal Operation

The wheel speed sensor and sensor ring generate a square wave signal to the anti-lock brake system (ABS) module that is proportional to wheel speed. The ABS module compares wheel speed inputs from all wheel speed sensors to determine an impending wheel lockup. Incorrect tire size can set these DTCs as well.
  • Possible Causes
  • Mismatched tire sizes
  • Wheel speed sensor ring
  • Wheel speed sensor
  • ABS module
PINPOINT TEST E: DTC C1222 — WHEEL SPEED MISMATCH, DTCs C1233 (LF), C1234 (RF), C1236 (REAR) — WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL FAULT

NOTICE: Use the flex probe kit for all test connections to prevent damage to the wiring terminals. Do not use standard multimeter probes.
<table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" width="96%"> <tbody> <tr> <th>Test Step </th> <th>Result / Action to Take </th></tr> <tr> <td> E1 RETRIEVE ABS MODULE DTCs </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • Connect the scan tool.
  • Ignition ON.
  • Are DTCs C1145, C1155 or C1175 present?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
GO to Pinpoint Test D .

No
If DTC C1222 is present, GO to E7 .

If DTC C1233 or C1234 and/or C1236 are present and the active wheel speed sensor tool is available, GO to E2 . If the active wheel speed sensor tool is not available, GO to E5 .

For all other DTCs , GO to E8 . </td></tr> <tr> <td> E2 CHECK THE ABS MODULE OUTPUT USING THE SPECIAL TOOL </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • Ignition OFF.
  • Disconnect: Suspect Wheel Speed Sensor.
  • Connect the special tool to the wheel speed sensor connectors.
  • Ignition ON.
  • Select the correct system polarity on the special tool and turn the special tool power switch to the ON position.
  • Is the module output LED illuminated?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
GO to E4 .

No
GO to E3 . </td></tr> <tr> <td> E3 CHECK THE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUITS FOR AN OPEN </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • NOTE: Both circuits must be checked for each DTC.
  • Ignition OFF.
  • Disconnect: ABS Module C135.
  • Measure the resistance between ABS module C135, harness side and suspected wheel speed sensor connector, harness side, as follows:

    <table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <th align="center" valign="bottom">DTC </th> <th align="center" valign="bottom">Circuit </th> <th align="center" valign="bottom">ABS Module Connector Pin </th> <th align="center" valign="bottom">Wheel Speed Sensor Connector Pin </th></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1233 (LF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">522 (TN/BK) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-13 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C150-2 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1233 (LF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">521 (TN/OG) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-12 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C150-1 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1234 (RF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">516 (YE/BK) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-27 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C160-2 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1234 (RF) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">514 (YE/RD) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-26 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C160-1 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1236 (Rear) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">523 (RD/PK) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-42 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C455-1 </td></tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top">C1236 (Rear) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">519 (LG/BK) </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C135-41 </td> <td align="center" valign="top">C455-2 </td></tr></tbody></table>
  • Are the resistances less than 5 ohms?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
GO to E9 .

No
REPAIR the affected circuit(s). CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. </td></tr> <tr> <td> E4 CHECK THE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR OUTPUT WITH THE SPECIAL TOOL </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • Raise the suspect wheel until it can spin freely. Refer to Section 100-02 .
  • While monitoring the special tool, slowly spin the suspect wheel.
  • Do the sensor output LEDs illuminate and flash and is the current overload LED not illuminated?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
INSPECT the wheel speed sensor tone ring for damage and looseness. INSTALL new components as necessary. If the tone ring is OK, the concern may have been caused by a loose or corroded connector. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

No
If the current level LED is not illuminated and the sensor output LEDs do not illuminate or if the current level LED is illuminated red, INSTALL a new wheel speed sensor. For the front wheel speed sensor, REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) or Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Four Wheel Drive (4WD) in this section. For the rear wheel speed sensor, REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Rear in this section. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

If the current level LED is not illuminated and the sensor output LEDs illuminate green but do not flash, INSPECT the wheel speed sensor tone ring and INSTALL new if necessary. If the tone ring is OK, INSTALL a new wheel speed sensor. For the front wheel speed sensor, REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) or Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Four Wheel Drive (4WD) in this section. For the rear wheel speed sensor, REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Rear in this section. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. </td></tr> <tr> <td> E5 CHECK THE FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR OUTPUT </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • Ignition OFF.
  • Disconnect: Wheel Speed Sensor C150 (LF) or C160 (RF).
  • If DTC C1233 is present, connect a fused (5A) jumper wire between LF wheel speed sensor C150-1, circuit 521 (TN/OG), harness side and LF wheel speed sensor C150-1, component side. Connect the automotive meter between LF wheel speed sensor C150-2, circuit 522 (TN/BK), harness side and LF wheel speed sensor C150-2, component side.

  • If DTC C1234 is present, connect a fused (5A) jumper wire between RF wheel speed sensor C160-2, circuit 516 (YE/BK), harness side and RF wheel speed sensor C160-2, component side. Connect the automotive meter between RF wheel speed sensor C160-1, circuit 514 (YE/RD), harness side and LF wheel speed sensor C160-1, component side.
  • Ignition ON.
  • Measure the current while slowly spinning the wheel.
  • Does the automotive meter switch between 6 mA and 14 mA?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
GO to E6 .

No
INSTALL a new affected wheel speed sensor, REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) or Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Four Wheel Drive (4WD) in this section. CLEAR the DTC. REPEAT the self-test. </td></tr> <tr> <td> E6 CHECK THE REAR AXLE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR OUTPUT </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • Ignition OFF.
  • Disconnect: Rear Axle Wheel Speed Sensor C455.
  • Connect a fused (5A) jumper wire between rear axle wheel speed sensor, C455-2, circuit 523 (RD/PK), harness side and rear wheel speed sensor C455-2, component side. Connect the automotive meter between rear wheel speed sensor C455-1, circuit 519 (LG/BK), harness side and rear wheel speed sensor C455-1, component side.

  • Ignition ON.
  • Measure the current while slowly spinning the wheel.
  • Does the automotive meter switch between approximately 6 mA and 14 mA?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
GO to E9 .

No
INSTALL a new rear axle wheel speed sensor. REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Rear in this section. CLEAR the DTC. REPEAT the self-test. </td></tr> <tr> <td> E7 CHECK FOR CORRECT ABS MODULE CONFIGURATION </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • NOTE: DTC C1222 indicates that there is a problem with the axle configuration in the ABS module.
  • Carry out the ABS module configuration. Verify that the vehicle data matches the vehicle options. Refer to Section 418-01 to continue diagnosis.
  • Clear the DTC and carry out the self-test.
  • Is DTC C1222 still present?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
GO to E9 .

No
The system is operating correctly at this time. CLEAR the DTC. REPEAT the self-test. </td></tr> <tr> <td> E8 MONITOR THE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR PID </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • Enter the following diagnostic mode on the scan tool: ABS Module Wheel Speed Sensor PIDs.
  • Drive the vehicle at various speeds above 10 km/h (6 mph) while monitoring the PIDs.
  • Do all of the PIDs match?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
GO to E9 .

No
INSTALL a new wheel speed sensor. REFER to Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) or Wheel Speed Sensor — Front, Four Wheel Drive (4WD) in this section. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. </td></tr> <tr> <td> E9 CHECK FOR CORRECT ABS MODULE OPERATION </td> <td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
</td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
  • Disconnect the ABS connector.
  • Check for:
    • corrosion.
    • pushed-out pins.
  • Connect the ABS connector and make sure that it is seated correctly.
  • Operate the system and verify the concern is still present.
  • Is the concern still present?
</td> <td style="BORDER-TOP: medium none">Yes
INSPECT the wheel speed sensor tone ring for damage and looseness. INSTALL new components as necessary. If the tone ring is OK, INSTALL a new ABS module. REFER to Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module in this section. CLEAR the DTC. REPEAT the self-test.

No
The system is operating correctly at this time. The concern may have been caused by a loose or corroded connector. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. </td></tr></tbody></table>
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 12:20 PM
  #26  
ryanf77's Avatar
ryanf77
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 34
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From: Banning, California
Originally Posted by m-chan68
Where are you taking your mesurements? What I mean by that question is where are each end of the leads on the meter are placing them to achieve that reading? I will assume that you are placing one end of the lead on the ABS connector, and the other end to the corresponding wheel speed sensor connector (on the harness end) correct? If both are reading less than 5 ohms, and assuming the sensor is good, that leaves the ABS module has the only possibility.
BUT.............

....... I would NOT jump the gun to replace it until I connected IDS (or equivalent scan tool) and monitored all three wheel speeds while driving, to confirm your R/FRONT is in fact offline, or not reading. I would also try to load test both circuits by wiring in a large sealed beam type headlight bulb one, and the power source on the other end (a 12 volt battery).
HOPEFULLY, I fixed it!!!
Here's what I did. We hooked My Truck to a Scan Tool that monitors wheel speeds. Reset the Codes and then drove it. As soon as the ABS light came on the Wheel Speed for the Front Right dropped to Zero.

In order to eliminate the possibility of it being the ABS Module I removed the Plug into the ABS, and swapped the right and left hub wires. We then drove the truck again and the codes changed to the front left hub now! So, the ABS Module is reading correctly.

I then swapped the wires back to their original spots. I then cut the wires for the front right hub a couple inches from the ABS Module Plug and a couple inches after the Plug that is in the Fender Well. I then spliced in a 16 Ga. Automotive Wire from the 2 cut ends. Reset the Codes. I have now driven over 30 Miles and no ABS Light Yet! - When I checked the ohms of the wires the other day they measured good. I am guessing that the problem was in the Plug where it connected in the Wheel Well. I'm keeping My fingers crossed that it does not come back on!

Thanks Again for all the Help Guys...
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 12:24 PM
  #27  
Money-Pit's Avatar
Money-Pit
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,169
Likes: 3
From: SW Florida
Originally Posted by ryanf77
HOPEFULLY, I fixed it!!!
Here's what I did. We hooked My Truck to a Scan Tool that monitors wheel speeds. Reset the Codes and then drove it. As soon as the ABS light came on the Wheel Speed for the Front Right dropped to Zero.

In order to eliminate the possibility of it being the ABS Module I removed the Plug into the ABS, and swapped the right and left hub wires. We then drove the truck again and the codes changed to the front left hub now! So, the ABS Module is reading correctly.

I then swapped the wires back to their original spots. I then cut the wires for the front right hub a couple inches from the ABS Module Plug and a couple inches after the Plug that is in the Fender Well. I then spliced in a 16 Ga. Automotive Wire from the 2 cut ends. Reset the Codes. I have now driven over 30 Miles and no ABS Light Yet! - When I checked the ohms of the wires the other day they measured good. I am guessing that the problem was in the Plug where it connected in the Wheel Well. I'm keeping My fingers crossed that it does not come back on!

Thanks Again for all the Help Guys...
Now THAT's the proper way to trouble shoot and repair the problem! Use the muscles in your skull before using the ones in your arms. Good job.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 12:34 PM
  #28  
99ExpyProblems's Avatar
99ExpyProblems
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by ryanf77
I then cut the wires for the front right hub a couple inches from the ABS Module Plug and a couple inches after the Plug that is in the Fender Well. I then spliced in a 16 Ga. Automotive Wire from the 2 cut ends. Reset the Codes.
Not how I would have wanted to repair it but to each their own... *fingers crossed* it works!
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 04:44 PM
  #29  
ryanf77's Avatar
ryanf77
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Banning, California
Originally Posted by 99ExpyProblems
Not how I would have wanted to repair it but to each their own... *fingers crossed* it works!
Yeah, It seems a bit Hoakie to Me too! Any suggestions for a Permanent Repair? I Guess I could try to find the Connectors and Plugs at an Electronics Supply Website and then replace it all?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 05:02 PM
  #30  
Yahiko's Avatar
Yahiko
Fleet Owner
10 Year Member
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Community Favorite
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Here is the pigtail catalog

http://static.ibsrv.net/FordTrucks/P...ationKit_1.pdf
http://static.ibsrv.net/FordTrucks/P...ationKit_2.pdf

Sean
 
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