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With all due respect, can't ya get in there to count and measure?
I believe they are 1.5 inches. PLEASE VERIFY.
There are expanding rubber plugs in the market but they aren't intended as a permanent fix... only to get you by until a proper repair.
$14 from Jeg's. Use brass, not steel.
At this time I cannot. Just had a medical procedure done and I am unable to get underneath the truck. I used one of those extenda mirror with a light and saw the plug seeping.
No sweat though, I appreciate the response, did not know they made brass ones.
At this time I cannot. Just had a medical procedure done and I am unable to get underneath the truck. I used one of those extenda mirror with a light and saw the plug seeping.
No sweat though, I appreciate the response, did not know they made brass ones.
Thanks for the clarification on your condition. Be well on your road to recovery.
Like it was said above , the rubber plugs are not to be permanent . I have had them to pop out in three different engines, the first two i caught in time the last one i never. It was in the 73 i bought about a year ago and came out about 1/2 of an hour after i paid for the truck . The guy i bought it from was following me home with it and it came out . By the time he knew it the engine was gone, that's one of the reasons i have a 302 in it now instead of the 360 . He did offer to return my money but i turned him down , it was not his fault , crap happens.
I had the same plug leaking on my '78. Was easy enough to get it out but there is not enough room to get the new one seated properly. I ended up installing one of the rubber ones. It's been in for about two months with no problems. I know it's not a permanent fix or ideal but it's getting me by for now.
Once one starts leaking you are better advised to get them replaced as soon as you can. IMO its easier to pull the moter and just tap, rotate 180, and remove. Its a simple tap in of the new set.
Once one starts leaking you are better advised to get them replaced as soon as you can. IMO its easier to pull the moter and just tap, rotate 180, and remove. Its a simple tap in of the new set.
x3 on the sealer and brass.
NOW I know about a brass option.....
Yeah, if one is leaking, you know the others aren't far behind.
But, pull the engine! WOW! I am hoping the time it will take to pull the eng. I can have the plugs replaced.
I found a tool that helps drives the plugs in.
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The drivers screw on to the collar, cups the plug it rides on a ball which give you some flexibility and angle of install.
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When the time comes, I think I will leave the engine in it and prepare to have coolant go down my sleeves and use a big hammer and permatex.
Neat looking tool , i could use one it would be better than banging on one of my sockets . I would still pull the engine though . With my luck if i start swinging a hammer with the engine in i will miss and hit my hand.
Some folks are overwhelmed by the thought of pulling a motor to work on it. I was that way for a long time, then a FTE buddy showed me the secrete.
Pull the front clip and set on the tire and it is real easy, the front clip is held on by 14 bolts. I can get that off in less than a hour.
I will never lean over a fender/coresupport or set on a inner fenderwell for any big hard tasks anymore.
Freeze plugs are rather important and insuring they are installed absolutely correctly is a big one in my book. Now that I see there is a tool available I have a new route to go.
We put in a new set when we replaced ol reds eng, along with timing set, water and oil pump, clutch package, checked all the lower end clearances, and new rear main and pan seal.
At least there are many ways to do things, and we are learning them on here and that is all that matters.
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