Fox Valley Timing tool?
Logistics Pro
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From: Iron, MN
When I removed my IP and resealed it I just put the timing back to where the previous setting was, which I marked. 
I'm getting 18.8 mpg on the highway but she is a pig on hills ***SO*** now that I have been reading some on the dangers of ear timing diesels I think that I am going to spring for the newer model < $200. Even with the illuminating type it seems like some guess work and I don't know if my timing is correct, so it seems like too much to risk. 
Does the 1986 6.9 take the 1/4" line clamp or the 6 or 6.5mm line clamp?
I'm getting 18.8 mpg on the highway but she is a pig on hills ***SO*** now that I have been reading some on the dangers of ear timing diesels I think that I am going to spring for the newer model < $200. Even with the illuminating type it seems like some guess work and I don't know if my timing is correct, so it seems like too much to risk. Does the 1986 6.9 take the 1/4" line clamp or the 6 or 6.5mm line clamp?
Right now I'm getting roughly 12mpg >_> Which, is precisely why I'm trying to time it XD Doesn't help that I've got 4.1 in the rear end... but, I should still be getting close to 18 from what I've read....
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From: Iron, MN
Alrighty! I got my Fox Valley Timing Adapter in the mail yesterday, and went to time my truck today!
The good news... Tool works great! It's much easier to hook up than I was afraid. As usual, the most complicated thing is removing my air cleaner.... I've really got to do something in an alternative to the stock Banks turbo cleaner.... It went on, it works magnificently! And just as Macrobb said, setting the advance up 20 degrees seems to make it work just like the Ferret one. And, yeah... my timing is waaay the hell off....
The bad news: Another one of my injector lines is cracked and needs replacement :/ I noticed it spraying diesel all over the top of my engine... I hate those lines, they're fricking expensive to get new ones for just being tubes of steel X_X
Bad news continued: My injection pump doesn't have that square on the front of it for the 2nd turnbuckle... Well, maybe not bad news I guess, but it's unusual... I wonder if my pump isn't factory... Will just make setting it a little more tricky, I can manage.
The possibly very bad, and also weird news.... So, I set the throttle turnbuckle on there to dink with it a bit... and my throttle response gets really weird O_o While tightening it up, it got up to about 1500 RPM's, then another half turn of the turn buckle and it suddenly shoots up to almost 3000 RPM's O_o What the hell? Is it just that my timing is that badly retarded? Or is there something drastically wrong?
The good news... Tool works great!
It's much easier to hook up than I was afraid. As usual, the most complicated thing is removing my air cleaner.... I've really got to do something in an alternative to the stock Banks turbo cleaner.... It went on, it works magnificently! And just as Macrobb said, setting the advance up 20 degrees seems to make it work just like the Ferret one. And, yeah... my timing is waaay the hell off....The bad news: Another one of my injector lines is cracked and needs replacement :/ I noticed it spraying diesel all over the top of my engine... I hate those lines, they're fricking expensive to get new ones for just being tubes of steel X_X
Bad news continued: My injection pump doesn't have that square on the front of it for the 2nd turnbuckle... Well, maybe not bad news I guess, but it's unusual... I wonder if my pump isn't factory... Will just make setting it a little more tricky, I can manage.
The possibly very bad, and also weird news.... So, I set the throttle turnbuckle on there to dink with it a bit... and my throttle response gets really weird O_o While tightening it up, it got up to about 1500 RPM's, then another half turn of the turn buckle and it suddenly shoots up to almost 3000 RPM's O_o What the hell? Is it just that my timing is that badly retarded? Or is there something drastically wrong?
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From: Iron, MN
There we go, new line is in, and truck is timed... I am waiting on a new set of olives before I take it out on the road for a test run, but, I've got the timing set, and there isn't fuel spraying around under my hood anymore :P
All in all? I love the Fox Valley tool Glad I didn't blow the money on the expensive one. It's just as easy to use, pulling that one glowplug is effortless...
Still got that weird throttle response thing going though.... I'll sit and turn the turnbuckle a 16th of a turn or so, and it gets to 1910, even if I let go of the turn buckle, after a few seconds the RPM's ramp up to 2400. And, if I unscrew the turnbuckle very slowly, it gets to about 2110, then drops down to 1500 RPM's.... weird... So, I checked the timing at the two closest points, 1900, and 2120, and both points agree with eachother... Should be close enough :P
All in all? I love the Fox Valley tool
Glad I didn't blow the money on the expensive one. It's just as easy to use, pulling that one glowplug is effortless...Still got that weird throttle response thing going though.... I'll sit and turn the turnbuckle a 16th of a turn or so, and it gets to 1910, even if I let go of the turn buckle, after a few seconds the RPM's ramp up to 2400. And, if I unscrew the turnbuckle very slowly, it gets to about 2110, then drops down to 1500 RPM's.... weird... So, I checked the timing at the two closest points, 1900, and 2120, and both points agree with eachother... Should be close enough :P
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Virginia
Could the IP throttle-shaft face-cam and rocker lever be out of adjustment? When I sealed my IP, my throttle shaft face-cam was badly worn. These move the servo advance plunger and piston.
Last edited by Dieselamour; Oct 21, 2013 at 02:21 PM. Reason: who cares
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From: Iron, MN
Haha, okay, I know what all of those words mean individually, but I have no idea what you just said! XD
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Virginia
Ha, ha...., I am not sure either. It has to do with the advance of the IP according to throttle position. Someone on here said "do not mess with that it requires specific calibration". , lol. I had to and put the new cam right back where it was. At least you can check to see if yours is worn or damaged.
Throttle Shaft face Cam # 8
Lever # 13
Advance Servo Plunger # 23
Advance Servo Assembly # 33
, lol. I had to and put the new cam right back where it was. At least you can check to see if yours is worn or damaged.Throttle Shaft face Cam # 8
Lever # 13
Advance Servo Plunger # 23
Advance Servo Assembly # 33
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From: Iron, MN
Hmmmmm..... Well, I went out and tinkered with my truck a bit more today, and took a look at the parts in that diagram.... Except... my pump doesn't look quite like the one in that diagram....
There is what looks to be a vacuum actuated cylinder on the opposite end of the throttle shaft from the cable. I'm guessing this is related to the cruise control? Either way, my pump doesn't quite look the same either....
I think I might have a different from factory pump on my truck... Because it doesn't have the square notch on it that was mentioned in the timing videos either... (I just hooked the turnbuckle around the fuel line when I did mine instead)
There is what looks to be a vacuum actuated cylinder on the opposite end of the throttle shaft from the cable. I'm guessing this is related to the cruise control? Either way, my pump doesn't quite look the same either....
I think I might have a different from factory pump on my truck... Because it doesn't have the square notch on it that was mentioned in the timing videos either... (I just hooked the turnbuckle around the fuel line when I did mine instead)
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Vancouver Island, BC
Can you please post info on what timing light you used with it successfully?
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From: Iron, MN
I bought the cheapest advance timing light I could find, that also had a built in tach... Which happened to be this one:
The same timing light akaMacgyver used in his Ferrit video. Though, I imagine any advance timing light with tach will work just as well...
Then I just did as Macrobb said, I pushed the up arrow on the advance until it read 27 degrees (I set mine to 28, since I have a turbo... haven't taken it on the road yet, I'm waiting for a few more parts before I put my air box on) And then adjusted the pump per the method set in akaMacgyver's video until the timing mark was in line with the upper edge of the timing plate.
I'm fairly sure this is an accurate system, as I knew my timing was well retarded, and when I did the initial check, it was about 3.5 degrees off of where it should be. The engine sounds better having advanced it.
It was all really simple, once everything was assembled
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I adjusted things to 27 degrees on the timing light @ 2000 RPM, and that seems perfect for an IDI.
I found out that 28 is on the advanced side, 26 on the retarded side of things.
I still think this method is more accurate than the pulse method, due to differences in when the fuel actually goes boom.
I found out that 28 is on the advanced side, 26 on the retarded side of things.
I still think this method is more accurate than the pulse method, due to differences in when the fuel actually goes boom.
If your pickup is 20 degrees out to (TDC), isn't 26 really 6 deg ATDC and 28 is 8 deg ATDC, making 26 more advanced than 28?
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From: Iron, MN
I just want to clarify because I am thinking in the opposite direction here. You are pulling a glow plug, so you are timing via the lumi method and specs. As far as I know, the only real specs shown for this are between 3 and 7 degrees ATDC at 1400 RPM.
If your pickup is 20 degrees out to (TDC), isn't 26 really 6 deg ATDC and 28 is 8 deg ATDC, making 26 more advanced than 28?
If your pickup is 20 degrees out to (TDC), isn't 26 really 6 deg ATDC and 28 is 8 deg ATDC, making 26 more advanced than 28?
But, I know that turning it from where it was, to 28 is advancing it, because I turned my pump towards the passenger side which is advance on these engines, no? I turned it too far the first time, and I had to move the advance to 29 to get it to line up with the mark. Then I turned the pump back towards the drivers side a smidge, and got it down to 28... So.... the higher the number, the more advanced...
Plus, we're not using the factory timing mark here... IIRC, there was a special magnetic sensor built for these trucks that was used for setting the timing. Since I'm not using that sensor, and am instead using the top edge of the plate it goes into, the numbers would have to be offset just a bit more when used with a timing light.... right? o.o I think we might be switching over to BTDC, instead of ATDC...
The technical aspects of this are above my head I guess... It just works XD