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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

352 Engine issues when hot

Old Sep 12, 2013 | 03:26 PM
  #1  
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352 Engine issues when hot

Im banging my head against a wall... the PO doesn't know what the hell he did.

its a 1965 f100 with a 352 fe motor

it was gone through and has a new cam and new crank, the PO changed the carb to a 4 barrel with a steel intake.

Ive had radiator issues which I have resolved along with the crank case vent/ road draft tube.

It starts up awesome.

After about 10-15 minutes of driving I pull over and go inside the store for maybe 30 seconds. Truck wont start... just turns over. so I give it 20 minutes...still nothing. finally I try to crank it for about 30 seconds and it starts up.

I get home which is about 1 mile away and pop the hood and trying to figure out why.. everything seams fine..the only thing out of the ordinary is the radiator hoses are just hard as a rock...feels like fluid in them but man hard as a rock and cant squeeze them.


Do you think these is a relation between the hard radiator hoses and the truck not starting?


any ideas

 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 05:21 PM
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You may need to add a non metal gasket or spacer between the intake and carb. Sounds like the gas is being boiled out of the carb.

I added an alum intake, that was doing the same thing, & a 1" phenolic spacer stopped it.


John
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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Sounds like that might be a strong possibility.

What would cause the pressure on the hoses to make them so tough? Just that hot or maybe a upside down thermostat?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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Are the radiator hoses hard all the time or just when it is hot? You should have 2 1/2 inches of expansion space in the radiator, if the cap is super high pressure or stuck it could be over pressurizing the system. A higher pressure can allow the temperature to get a lot higher in a closed saturated steam system. This may be your problem but.......

I would carry a voltage meter, a remote switch and a restuarant ketchup bottle half filled with gas and when it happens again, test for voltage at the coil (note, there will be no voltage if the points are closed and you may have to turn the engine to open the points), then hook up the remote start, pull a plug wire, have your wife hold it, and check for spark to rule out ignition problem, the higher she jumps, the hotter the spark, then squirt gas into the carb to rule out gas problem.

Just going by an uneducated guess, I suspect an ignition problem that takes a while to cool enough to clear a short or reset an open circuit. If you are not getting spark, work backward to the distributor and coil, be sure to check for a short inside the dist. just where the wire enters. I have had that problem several times in the past on tractors because the insulation breaks down at that entrance and become an evil intermittent problem, hard to islolate and test for on the side of the road.

Good luck.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 4 rings
What would cause the pressure on the hoses to make them so tough? Just that hot or maybe a upside down thermostat?
Hardened up radiator hoses are old, old, old! Time to replace them. The factory installed lower hose contained a coil spring to prevent it from collapsing.

T/stat installed bassackwards will cause the temp gauge to read hot PDQ. 1965/66's use 2 1/2" diameter t/stats, while 1967 and later use 2 1/4" diameter t/stats.

The original radiator cap is 13 lbs.

I owned a 1965 F100 for 44 years, never had an overheating problem, cuz I believe in preventive maintenance.

Do not, repeat do not pour anti-freeze into an engine that contains rust and scale. It acts like a rust inhibitor, will soon pull the rust/scale from the engine, plug up the radiator.

Flushing will not remove all the rust/scale no matter how many times you do it, the block has to be boiled out by an engine machine shop.
 
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