hard hot start problem----> bad voltage regulator?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: New Oxford, PA
hard hot start problem----> bad voltage regulator?
I have trouble starting my truck when the engine is hot. Had the same issue with the old engine.
I rebuilt the carb a few months ago and that didn't fix the problem. (it did however make the engine run a LOT better) This problem is irritating. I can't turn my truck off to get gas, because it won't start if i do, so I'm constantly filling my two 5 gallon gas tanks and filling the truck at home.
So I've got a rebuilt carb, new spark plugs and wires, new battery and cables, new starter, new alternator, new cap and rotor. (i know some of those things wouldn't be the problem, but i replaced them when i put the different engine in)
Guy at work says most likely my voltage regulator is going out- he says when it heats up it doesn't like to work properly and is what's giving me trouble with starting. That sound right to you guys?
I would also like to replace my coil and solenoid here soon.
Dang- i hope i can get this hot engine problem fixed- it makes driving my truck a pain in the butt!
I rebuilt the carb a few months ago and that didn't fix the problem. (it did however make the engine run a LOT better) This problem is irritating. I can't turn my truck off to get gas, because it won't start if i do, so I'm constantly filling my two 5 gallon gas tanks and filling the truck at home.
So I've got a rebuilt carb, new spark plugs and wires, new battery and cables, new starter, new alternator, new cap and rotor. (i know some of those things wouldn't be the problem, but i replaced them when i put the different engine in)
Guy at work says most likely my voltage regulator is going out- he says when it heats up it doesn't like to work properly and is what's giving me trouble with starting. That sound right to you guys?
I would also like to replace my coil and solenoid here soon.
Dang- i hope i can get this hot engine problem fixed- it makes driving my truck a pain in the butt!
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: New Oxford, PA
OH- would also like to say---
Earlier last week I was driving down the road, going 45 mph steady. And outta nowhere my truck just shut off. I tried starting it right away, and it just cranked. 5 minutes later i tried again and it started right up. Weird.
Sound like the coil to you?
Earlier last week I was driving down the road, going 45 mph steady. And outta nowhere my truck just shut off. I tried starting it right away, and it just cranked. 5 minutes later i tried again and it started right up. Weird.
Sound like the coil to you?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
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From: Austin, TX
I don't agree with your friend's assessment that the voltage regulator is the problem. I also don't agree with your assessment that the coil is the problem. Only until you take objective measurements to find out what's going on, can you find out what's going on. I hate spending money on parts only to find that the original part was just fine. 
The next time you're in a no-start situation, connect a test light from the TACH TEST (negative) terminal of the coil, to clean unpainted metal on the engine (ground). Keep the coil connected for this test. Jump in the cab and crank the engine with the key - the light should BLINK. Report your results and go from there.
Also verify that you have fuel in the no-start situation, and that the choke is OPEN.
This is under the assumption that the engine cranks over just fine, but won't start. Is this assumption correct?
The next time you're in a no-start situation, connect a test light from the TACH TEST (negative) terminal of the coil, to clean unpainted metal on the engine (ground). Keep the coil connected for this test. Jump in the cab and crank the engine with the key - the light should BLINK. Report your results and go from there.
Also verify that you have fuel in the no-start situation, and that the choke is OPEN.
This is under the assumption that the engine cranks over just fine, but won't start. Is this assumption correct?
New User
Joined: Sep 2010
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no start suggestion
while driving down the road and it shuts off you can check a few things by yourself.. check that the carb has fuel spraying when linkage is worked.. next check with a inline spark tester to a plug wire to see if you are getting fire.. new models like 80's and up are known to have stator problems in the distributor you may find something similar there with your truck also i have seen bad ignition switches do the same on older models. would check for fire and fuel first though
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Southaven,Ms
was thinking that myself, but if he follows fmc400's advice should confirm or rule that out
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Northern Indiana
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: New Oxford, PA
Fmc400- I didn't think it was the voltage regulator myself. I'll see if my dad has a test light. And yes- choke is open. Think maybe the fuel is vaporizing? Engine does crank- and will even start (sometimes) after 5-8 seconds of cranking and eventually with a light tap of gas.
Pullnyou- I didn't use the same dizzy. I used the one that came on the engine. Call me dumb- but where is the ignition switch....? I'll see if my grandfather has a spark tester.
I'm not much of a mechanic, but I learned a lot over the last year. I put this engine in myself last year and had a blast. Been fixing minor problem after another over the last year. I've done a lot by myself, things I thought I'd never do! I love this truck!
Pullnyou- I didn't use the same dizzy. I used the one that came on the engine. Call me dumb- but where is the ignition switch....? I'll see if my grandfather has a spark tester.
I'm not much of a mechanic, but I learned a lot over the last year. I put this engine in myself last year and had a blast. Been fixing minor problem after another over the last year. I've done a lot by myself, things I thought I'd never do! I love this truck!
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 388
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From: Northern Indiana
Control module is the box mounted to your driver side inner fender. Ignition swith is the thing you stick the key in and turn to start your truck.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: New Oxford, PA
WAIT- what me and my friend have been refering to as the "voltage regulator" is really the control module! The little gray box about the side of two packs of cigarettes?
At least I was right by guessing what the igntion switch is!
At least I was right by guessing what the igntion switch is!
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 911
Likes: 2
From: Northern Virginia, USA
Those ignition modules are known to go bad. Typical sign is a puddle of goo underneath it. I'd post a photo from my truck (which has a BIG puddle of goo), but I'm feeling lazy.
fmc400 will steer you right. If you have an actual tachometer installed, I'd imagine the needle wouldn't budge when cranking if there was an ignition problem.
fmc400 will steer you right. If you have an actual tachometer installed, I'd imagine the needle wouldn't budge when cranking if there was an ignition problem.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,157
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This is the ignition module. Yours may not have ribs on top.
FWIW, my truck is hard to start after it's run too. If I let it sit more than 10 minutes, it's takes about 5 - 7 seconds of cranking then catches and sputters a little bit. It's as if it's flooded or starving for gas.