Hot engine, won't start stalls when slowing
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: South Jersey
Hot engine, won't start stalls when slowing
My fe 352 has been hard to start after it has been run a couple hours and allowed to sit. When it eventially starts it will stall if allowed to heat up again. Vapor locked? Here's the thing, when this happened I could still see fuel squirting in the carb. I also took the top of the carb off and the bowl was full. Is it possible the coil is overheating? The thing is its a new coil with electronic ignition. Interesting thing, the carb has a spacer which is intended to be connected to the cooling system. Is it possible the carb is overheating?
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Junior User
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From: South Jersey
Thanks for the reply. Timing and tuning are right. I already went down that road and the truck runs great except for this hot issue. I'm thinking the coil is getting to hot and then I loose spark. Unfortunately this is actually my sons truck and I am never present when this happens, so I've never been able to check for spark.
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Junior User
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From: South Jersey
I am running an autolite 2100 2bl. Carb is new (rebuilt). I've recently replaced the timing chain, plugs, wires, coil, points with electronic ignition. The new accel coil I installed requires 12 volts so the resistor has been bypassed. Does anyone use the coolant ports on the spacer plate? If so how are they suppose to connect to the system?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
What you described often happens when an alum. intake is installed. The heat transfer is much greater and gas is boiled out of the carb requiring a phenolic spacer under the carb.
The spacer you describe was to heat the carb. That idea has passed long ago.
John
The spacer you describe was to heat the carb. That idea has passed long ago.
John
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Junior User
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From: South Jersey
Thanks John. I do remember hearing that about the aluminum intake. Mine is iron, but I still wonder if I might be seeing the same thing. I'll try to locate a spacer and give it a try, my plans are also to insulate the coil from the manifold.
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Junior User
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From: South Jersey
If I use a phenolic spacer, what do I do about the PCV valve? It doesn't look like any of the thermally resistive spacers provide a PCV port.
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Just a thought, but if that electronic ignition box gets too hot, it will wig out and stop sending spark too.
My grandfather had a truck that the box was too close to the engine and his truck died driving down the road. He got out and poured a bottle of water on it and it fired up and got us home.
Now I'm not suggesting you pour water on it, but you might consider it and move it like he did to as far as you can from the engine. It did remedy his problem.
My grandfather had a truck that the box was too close to the engine and his truck died driving down the road. He got out and poured a bottle of water on it and it fired up and got us home.
Now I'm not suggesting you pour water on it, but you might consider it and move it like he did to as far as you can from the engine. It did remedy his problem.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: South Jersey
Just a thought, but if that electronic ignition box gets too hot, it will wig out and stop sending spark too.
My grandfather had a truck that the box was too close to the engine and his truck died driving down the road. He got out and poured a bottle of water on it and it fired up and got us home.
Now I'm not suggesting you pour water on it, but you might consider it and move it like he did to as far as you can from the engine. It did remedy his problem.
My grandfather had a truck that the box was too close to the engine and his truck died driving down the road. He got out and poured a bottle of water on it and it fired up and got us home.
Now I'm not suggesting you pour water on it, but you might consider it and move it like he did to as far as you can from the engine. It did remedy his problem.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Highlands Ranch CO.
I am running an autolite 2100 2bl. Carb is new (rebuilt). I've recently replaced the timing chain, plugs, wires, coil, points with electronic ignition. The new accel coil I installed requires 12 volts so the resistor has been bypassed. Does anyone use the coolant ports on the spacer plate? If so how are they suppose to connect to the system?
Yes, I've read that something like this could cause my issue. I am using an accel module which resides where the points were. I have no control box. The module connects directly to the coil via wires out of the module within the distributor. Maybe I should go back to points.
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From: South Jersey
Unfortunately, many things have been changed within the last couple months. So I doubt I will be able to say that this starting happening after I did something. Also we have only started using the truck for extended periods of time, so I doubt I would have ever seen this problem as it takes a good 45 minutes of driving before it crops up. My goal was to pass NJ emissions and eliminate a stall on acceleration problem. I accomplished this by chaning the timing chain, sprockets, carb, points to accel ignintion, accel coil, wires and plugs. I'll post a picture of my spacer plate later but it is a the standard spacer plate for the autolite 2100 carb. It is 1 inch high and has three ports. One port is for the pcv hose, One port is heater hose supply and one port is heater hose exit.
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Junior User
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From: South Jersey
Sorry I can't attach pictures, but the ebay link below shows the spacer I have. As John said its intended to heat the carb.
1967 FORD & FAIRLANE 390 2V CARBURETOR SPACER: eBay Motors (item 390202517703 end time Sep-26-10 14:08:03 PDT)
1967 FORD & FAIRLANE 390 2V CARBURETOR SPACER: eBay Motors (item 390202517703 end time Sep-26-10 14:08:03 PDT)
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Junior User
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From: South Jersey
It's the new coil! I think
Here's where I'm at. The truck runs good for about 30 minutes and dies. I think its the coil as the spark looks weak and the coil shows signs of stress cracks on the lid, in spite of the fact it's new. Here's why I think it went bad. I used an Accel 8140 coil with the accel points eliminator kit. It suggested I did not need a ballast resistor with this setup. While at first I thought the overheated coil was due to ballast resistor problems, I now believe it is that I mounted the Accel coil (oil filled) in the factory horizontal possition on the manifold. I have read that an oil filled coil should be mounted vertically or they will overheat. Is this true? Now for a stupid question. Where do I mount the coil vertically and if I do how long can the coil to distributor wire be?