Engine bolts
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From: Graham, WA
Engine bolts
Hi everyone, I'm trying to pull a 351W from a 1983 F250. I don't know what size bolts to use for the block to attach to the hoist. I've read they need to be galvanized but that's about the extent of what I know, it's my first time pulling an engine so forgive me if this is already posted. I just don't know exactly what to search for. Hopefully this post makes sense to someone.
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Algona,WA
I'm not quite sure what you mean what size bolts to use to attach to the engine hoist. You mean what size bolts should you find on the engine to use to attach the engine hoist to the block? I'd say probably un bolt a couple of intake manifold bolts and attach some sort of bracket to each corner of the engine and tighten the bolts back down. Then use that. Sorry if that doesn't make complete sense but it's 3:42 AM. I've seen quite a few engines with factory engine hoist brackets on the intakes and such before. Or if you don't feel comfortable using intake bolts, cylinder head bolts would be better.
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From: Graham, WA
Yes, what size bolts I would find on the engine to attach the hoist to the block. Exactly.So I just take several bolts off the intake manifold to use on the block? That would be easy enough, unless I'm not getting you completely. It's 4am so I'm quite a dullard right now.
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Covington VA
You dont always want to use a engine bolt. Just make sure to use a grade 5 or 8 (8preferable) bolt.
I have always used a chain bolted to the front exh manifold bolt hole in one head and the rear exh manifold bolt hole on the opposite side. They sell plates you can bolt down where the carb goes to lift from there. Snap on has a cable one with a wheel that will self center.
Again just grab a couple of the heaviest grade bolts you can to be on the safe side.
I have always used a chain bolted to the front exh manifold bolt hole in one head and the rear exh manifold bolt hole on the opposite side. They sell plates you can bolt down where the carb goes to lift from there. Snap on has a cable one with a wheel that will self center.
Again just grab a couple of the heaviest grade bolts you can to be on the safe side.
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
The intake bolts are 5/16" 18 TPI and the exhaust manifolds are 3/8" 16 TPI. It doesn't make any difference if they are galvanized or not. Galvanizing just prevents rust and corrosion in case they are used in an application where they are exposed to the weather. A lot of grade 8 bolts are hot dipped galvanized. The grade such 5 or 8 is how hard they are . Grade 5 is acceptable for automotive use and grade 8 is even harder. You want o get some long enough to thread all the way in the hole you are using and still have enough sticking out to get a chain and a couple of washers on it too.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Agree with all the above. BUT, you want the bolt to be short enough that it almost traps the chain against the engine. The reason is that a loooong bolt may allow the chain to move out away from the engine, and that puts a lot of leverage on the bolt and may bend it.
I actually like to bolt in where the accessory holes are in the front and back of the heads.
I actually like to bolt in where the accessory holes are in the front and back of the heads.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
And the accessory bolts are 7/16" 14 TPI unless you are going into an open thermactor port in the head and they are 5/8" 11 TPI. Yes you do want the bolt to tighten down and trap the chain too.
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