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I know this has been discussed before but i am asking as it pertains to my truck. Its a 79 engine but as far as the markings go its the same as my 76. There are markings in the timing chain cover on drivers side as well as markings on the passenger side. Also there are 2 sets of marks on the balancer. My obvious question is what marks do I use. Now i understand that the marks on the balancer could be wrong since its old and may have changed but I want to try it the right way. I have tried using a vacuum gauge but it just didnt sound right and the markings on the balancer were way off on both sets of markings on the truck but the balancer markings were within reach of the ones on the pass side. It ran the smoothest that way but when i hooked up the vacuum advance back up it ran like crap. A step by step process and any tricks would be helpful....thanks.
First thing I would do is simply see if your balancer is straight. Remove the #1 spark plug and rotate the engine until you can visually see the piston peak out at the very top. It doesn't matter if it's on the compression or exhaust stroke.
Next, look at the timing mark and see if it's on 0. It's okay if it's not exact (like 1 - 2 off) since it's not exactly a precise science on knowing if the piston is at the TOP top. But, if it's way off (mine wasn't even on the same side of the balancer when it was bad), you know you'll need a new balancer.
As for the driver's side and passenger side, both completely work. You can use whichever you'd like. When it's at TDC, one mark should line up with the 0 on the passenger side, and one mark with the driver's side.
Personally, I prefer the driver's side Timing Cover marks, since they allow me to rotate the distributor and watch the timing marks at the same time.
Thanks AB. I will try it again. I use a screw driver to make sure when the piston is up completely but didnt know the mark should be on both sides. Its running pretty smooth right now but at about 1500 to 1800 (no tach) it has a miss in it. I am gonna change cap and rotor and wires to see if that takes care of it. Its almost like it is grounding out somewhere. I had a boat that did that, arching from the plug wire to the block. Had a nice light show at night. What made me start all this is that when I hit the throttle it bogs down on me so I am searching as to why. First thing first right.
AB, just wanted to let you know that I did what you said and it seems to be running a little smoother. Still having the issue with the carb bogging down when I hit the gas hard. Any ideas??
If the accelerator pump is defective, it causes a bog when the accelerator is depressed. Take your air filter housing off [with engine off] and look down the throat of the carburetor. Open the throttle and see if you can see a steady strong stream of gasoline.
Glad it's running smoother, but I'm not sure what I told you to do besides how to check for a slipped harmonic balancer.
I agree with 1986, when was the last time the carb was rebuilt? Also, when was the last time the spark plugs were changed? I remember tracing a horrible bogging problem in my friend's vehicle. It drove great until you stepped on the gas. Finally turned out he hadn't changed the spark plugs in 100,000 miles....
Well the carb was rebuilt when I got the truck in november. I just put another engine in so it has new plugs in it. I do need to change the cap and rotor and wires since they are the ones that came with the engine.