Richard (Darkstarmedia) said that Mercedes had some great soundproofing. I don't understand the 'capture' stuff but I'm all ears, Thanks!!

I've never had it like you do but a couple of summers ago my ac quit. With the windows down it was really loud, especially when you go by a cement bridge and get the echo back at you.


My wife is really sensitive to sound and she wears ear muffs from a sports outlet store. Sometimes ear plugs under that!!

 

That is almost exactly what prompted me to put the stock exhaust back on mine. Towing a camper home last summer the A/C wasn't working, a truck full of family in the summer with the windows down and that straight pipe droning away in the back passenger side window. Yup. I like it loud too, but that was just too much.

If you do crawl under there to look at it, look for soot stains at the junction between, the up pies and the manifold and where they meet the turbo collector. You may have a tough time getting back there to see that junction (you'll have to see that from the top side) and you may have to use a mirror, but that's a pretty common place for them to leak. I doubt you're leaking a whole lot though with the mileage you're seeing.

Why, yes! Yes they do! They run about $150.

Riffraff Diesel: Garrett TP-38 Blank/Deleted Pedestal 94-97

The rod you're looking at can be just left alone or cut off. The linkage you want to wire up is the arm on the bottom of the butterfly valve shaft on the turbo outlet. I'll try and snap a picture of mine tonight. The PO of my new truck had this one wired open.

 

The EBPV is what needs gutted, not the actuator. The EBPV is in the "3-bolt-flange-pipe-housing" that bolts to the turbine housing.

 

Nate, I definitely have soot stains on the firewall and can smell exhaust coming through the vents when idling. The soot stain is pretty big and it covers the trans dipstick. I cleaned it once with de-greaser and a hose, but after 2 weeks it was the same. I need to replace up-pipe gaskets!! So, have a shop do it or do it myself? I am thinking that a shop near me that I trust implicitly is the way to go? Unless it is fairly easy to get to myself....looks tight though.

 

It isn't a fun job at all, after doing mine the first time they still leaked. I went out and spent the big bucks on bellow up pipes. If you hire someone to do it, it will probably cost as much as a good set of bellows.

 

It IS tight. Whether you do it yourself or take it somewhere is up to you and depends on how mechanically savvy you are and how much time you have to spend on it. I know what I would do, but what you choose to do about it is up to you.

 

my up pipes only have a little black rite where they bolt together, not blowing it any where yet. think I will wait to tackle that project later. lol

my boy had to take the truck out of town for work a few days so I cant look at the ebpv thing until tmw.

starting to get chilly in the mornings so I have to get after the glow plugs.
I saw a test on one of the web sites of three glow plugs side by side. showed them put power to them n how they worked. side the rx was best.
rx, ngk and beru I think were the 3. any comments on which one.

rosewood diesel is where I saw the test comparison.

 

I saw that too. I've always have used beru though.

 

Other GPs may heat quicker, but may swell over time and get stuck in the head which is not cool. I think the rx plugs are relatively new. They might be OK, but its hard to say for sure. I would only use Ford/Beru GP since they are known good plugs.

 

Good deal. Savvy and ability isn't as much of a question as is time to do it, what happens if I break a bolt, etc. I talked to my diesel guy and he said 275 for the pipes and 400 labor to do the work. I figured that isn't too bad considering I now know what the job entails. I am just wondering if I should just go ahead and do the bellowed or not? I am still getting to know this stuff about this truck. After this, I should be good for a little while as I get $$ and other plans together.

 

That's not a bad deal at all in my opinion. As for the bellowed up-pipes, I would say not to waste your time and money with it unless you intend never to change the turbo out for something aftermarket (T3 or T4 frame) or you can build them yourself. They are SPENDY! If you do an aftermarket turbo, you'll likely end up replacing them anyway.

 

That's good advice Nate!

 

Nate, I really appreciate the input. That answers my question for me. I don't intend to change out the turbo anytime soon, I just more wanna get my truck really tight and buttoned up. Longevity with minor performance is my goal, so it looks like I'll just be doing stock pipes for now. I'd rather put the money towards e-fuel and that sort of thing. Thanks again!













Sorry!! Back on topic!

 

No problem here, I enjoy reading all this stuff. every thing I read about there trucks helps me too.

just got my truck back tonite so I can tinker some more this weekend. going to check this ebpv thing out some more also try and figure out if I have an after market down pipe or not. I can feel a wrinkle in the bend. are the after market ones wrinkle free??

anyone use the tymar intake? is it the same filter as the 6637? just different brackets n tubes. like the looks of it, but 60 bucks more.

 

Aftermarket downpipes are round going down after the turbo. The stocker is flat and pancaked.

A few have used the tymar intake. I don't think its any better, and iirc its the same filter. I had a tymar downpipe, 3" on top to 4" on the bottom. It is a very good piece. It has since been modified and combined with the downpipe that came with my S366.