ignition problems
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ignition problems
Hello all I am having trouble determining why I cannot get spark to the distributor. it is a 1976 F-100 it has sat for about 6 months and now it will not get spark. The module is good the coil is good and the distributor is good. I have checked everything with a voltmeter and have gotten the specified readings. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Hello all I am having trouble determining why I cannot get spark to the distributor. it is a 1976 F-100 it has sat for about 6 months and now it will not get spark. The module is good the coil is good and the distributor is good. I have checked everything with a voltmeter and have gotten the specified readings. Any help would be much appreciated.
That's a pretty ambiguous statement. I don't know where to look if I'm supposed to look "everywhere." The ignition system references one signal ground point, which is in the distributor. Many folks on the forum throw out "ground" in reference to ignition or lighting problems without making it clear as to why, other than to say that ground problems lead to weird issues. While that's true, it's ultimately not entirely helpful.
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hello cali I do have a good ground I think. I could have over looked something. FMC 400 I used this link to do some trouble shooting 1975-79 DISTRIBUTORS & IGNITION all of the results are as desired still no spark.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
You can replace the pickup by pulling off the veined armature without removing the distributor itself.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Rockport, IN
You will need a special tool to replace the pickup coil. Any auto parts store should have it in stock. Be very careful. If you drop a screw into the distributor you will have to take the distributor out.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/8...ule-wrench.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/8...ule-wrench.jpg
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MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Connect a test light from the negative terminal of the coil (TACH TEST) to clean, unpainted metal on the engine (ground). Crank the engine over with the key, and the light should BLINK. Report your results.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
That means the coil is not getting switched, either because the module isn't getting power, it's not getting a trigger, or it's bad.
Disconnect the 2-terminal connector at the ignition module. The RED with BLUE stripe wire coming from the TRUCK (would go to the WHITE wire of the module) should be hot with the key in START. The other wire (WHITE) coming from the TRUCK (would go to the RED wire of the module) should be hot with the key in RUN.
If you have 12 volts in both cases, then disconnect the 4-terminal connector. There should be 400 to 700 ohms between the ORANGE and PURPLE wires coming from the TRUCK. The BLACK wire coming from the TRUCK should have continuity with ground (no more resistance than that of your meter leads).
Since these are FEMALE connectors you're probing, you may need some help with a small wire inserted into each terminal. Use caution not to damage the terminals. If all that checks out fine, then the ignition module may be bad, or the connectors to the module could be corroded.
Disconnect the 2-terminal connector at the ignition module. The RED with BLUE stripe wire coming from the TRUCK (would go to the WHITE wire of the module) should be hot with the key in START. The other wire (WHITE) coming from the TRUCK (would go to the RED wire of the module) should be hot with the key in RUN.
If you have 12 volts in both cases, then disconnect the 4-terminal connector. There should be 400 to 700 ohms between the ORANGE and PURPLE wires coming from the TRUCK. The BLACK wire coming from the TRUCK should have continuity with ground (no more resistance than that of your meter leads).
Since these are FEMALE connectors you're probing, you may need some help with a small wire inserted into each terminal. Use caution not to damage the terminals. If all that checks out fine, then the ignition module may be bad, or the connectors to the module could be corroded.