Tips on body work
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
Tips on body work
I've decided to prep/paint my truck this summer. The problem is that I don't have a garage to do the body work in. My plan was to do the minor sanding on the front fenders and hood, and then take it to my brothers shop to get sprayed. The box has a few very small rust holes and dents to work out. The bed needs cutting and rewelded around each bolt. And the front cab mounts need to be replaced. I can by the cab mount sections and the bed grating pieces, but I also need inner fenders, the piece behind the front bumper, and some sport custom chrome trim pieces. I think I can get everything from ***, but the prices are overwhelming for shipping to canada.
Has anyone did any body work lately on their trucks? I need some tips and possibly some motivation.
Has anyone did any body work lately on their trucks? I need some tips and possibly some motivation.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Tips on body work
1) Tip #1
Rust is your #1 enemy. Make sure you deal with it correctly and completely.
4) Tip #2
If you don't remove all the rust, it will reappear in the future.
2) Tip #3
Surface rust is just a minor inconvenience. Sand it off, treat with some rust converter, and spray on a medium coat of epoxy primer.
3) Tip #4
Pinhole rust probably means there is hidden rust. Once you remove all the crud and paint that is in the area, you'll probably find other pinholes.
4) Tip #5
IF you have complete rust-thrus, the only proper way to treat it is to remove it. That means patching in a new panel.
5) Tip #6
Rattle can primer is not waterproof.
6) Tip #7
I don't see bodywork as work. It should be called bodyfun. Working with your hands and being able to say, "I did it myself" brings pride into your life. Especially if it is your vehicle, you are working on.
Rust is your #1 enemy. Make sure you deal with it correctly and completely.
4) Tip #2
If you don't remove all the rust, it will reappear in the future.
2) Tip #3
Surface rust is just a minor inconvenience. Sand it off, treat with some rust converter, and spray on a medium coat of epoxy primer.
3) Tip #4
Pinhole rust probably means there is hidden rust. Once you remove all the crud and paint that is in the area, you'll probably find other pinholes.
4) Tip #5
IF you have complete rust-thrus, the only proper way to treat it is to remove it. That means patching in a new panel.
5) Tip #6
Rattle can primer is not waterproof.
6) Tip #7
I don't see bodywork as work. It should be called bodyfun. Working with your hands and being able to say, "I did it myself" brings pride into your life. Especially if it is your vehicle, you are working on.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
Tips on body work
Hey, thanks for the tips! I've decided to dedicate this summer to finally getting it done. Just can't keep putting it off. I'll just do small sections at a time and spray with rust proofing, until I get one complete section, and take it in to epoxy prime it.
The chrome trim is going to take some work. There's so much chrome trim on the truck, it would cost over $1000 to replace it all. Only missing 3 sections so I'll just straighten out the bad ones the best I can.
Aekisu, question on your picture gallery. Is that a nodular 9" or just extra webbing? And what do the dimples mean?
The chrome trim is going to take some work. There's so much chrome trim on the truck, it would cost over $1000 to replace it all. Only missing 3 sections so I'll just straighten out the bad ones the best I can.
Aekisu, question on your picture gallery. Is that a nodular 9" or just extra webbing? And what do the dimples mean?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Tips on body work
The rearend is still open for discussion. People are saying it is an older 9" but that's not confirmed. It is on a 56 F100 frame but I'm sure it's not stock.
I asked about it on the diff forum and posted the pictures. There was some discussion about the dimples so I pointed them out on the photo.
The ID tag had the following info:
C1?? 4001 K 101
3.89 Date 0M
The C1?? may be C1111 but I can't tell for sure. If you have any insight I sure would appreciate it.
I asked about it on the diff forum and posted the pictures. There was some discussion about the dimples so I pointed them out on the photo.
The ID tag had the following info:
C1?? 4001 K 101
3.89 Date 0M
The C1?? may be C1111 but I can't tell for sure. If you have any insight I sure would appreciate it.
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