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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 09:02 AM
  #16  
MIKES 68 F100's Avatar
MIKES 68 F100
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From: Antelope Valley ,CA
missed that , sorry

ok which 3g the 80 amp or 130 amp (80 amp has 4 holes by pulley 130 has 2 holes )
 
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 10:10 AM
  #17  
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From: Eugene
Originally Posted by jowilker
I suspect here lies your issue.
It takes out the regulator since the 3G has one built in. I had the same issue before the alternator was changed.

It is the 130 Amp one with the 2 holes. Everything is charging good, I did remove the Amp gauge since it was going to melt down with all that extra amperage going through it. I didn't need a dash fire.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 01:18 PM
  #18  
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From: Eugene
I am not familiar with how the wiring for the coil works. I do know that mine still has the pink resistor wire under the dash. I also know I hooked up the same wire to the Blaster Coil that was on the original coil from when I purchased the truck. I am confused on how during start up it uses one circuit to get power to the coil but after start up uses another circuit. At least that is what I have found out from research online.

I have looked at a wiring diagram but am still not clear. Anybody that could explain in layman's terms would be great. I didn't grow up working on cars and am learning as I go from online sources such as here.

Have not been able to duplicate the problem since last weekend. I have not changed anything since it happened either, other than checking the wiring and connections but I did not find any that seemed lose or wires with bad insulation.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 01:53 PM
  #19  
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9d4
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From: Washington State
I don't know much about the dizzy s, I have the msd box and the dist but I had the same problem, and had everyone scratching their heads. after hours of trouble shooting and replacing parts. I figured out it was the magnetic pickup in the dist. replaced that and all is good
 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 02:15 PM
  #20  
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hiball3985
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From: tujunga, calif
Originally Posted by limpysmalls
I am not familiar with how the wiring for the coil works. I do know that mine still has the pink resistor wire under the dash. I also know I hooked up the same wire to the Blaster Coil that was on the original coil from when I purchased the truck. I am confused on how during start up it uses one circuit to get power to the coil but after start up uses another circuit. At least that is what I have found out from research online.

I have looked at a wiring diagram but am still not clear. Anybody that could explain in layman's terms would be great. I didn't grow up working on cars and am learning as I go from online sources such as here.

Have not been able to duplicate the problem since last weekend. I have not changed anything since it happened either, other than checking the wiring and connections but I did not find any that seemed lose or wires with bad insulation.
The circuit is simple. When you turn the key to the start position it activates the solenoid, one of the small wires on the solenoid sends 12v into the wire going to the coil, they are spliced together in the harness and bypasses the pink wire so you get a full 12V to the coil. In the start position the only thing getting power is the starter and coil. When the key goes back to the run position the power is routed through the resistor wire .
 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 03:04 PM
  #21  
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From: Eugene
Thank you hiball3985. I understand that part now. So there are 2 wires coming out of the ignition switch, one for start and the other for on. the one for on runs through the pink wire and is supposed to limit the volts to the coil to around 8. So when my truck is running and I am reading 12 volts at the coil might the ignition switch be bad since it is not switching to the pink wire 8 volt. Under the dash I did not find any spliced wires from the ones coming out of the ignition switch. I am hoping not to have to un-tape the harness under the dash if I can help it to sort this one.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 03:44 PM
  #22  
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From: tujunga, calif
Originally Posted by limpysmalls
Thank you hiball3985. I understand that part now. So there are 2 wires coming out of the ignition switch, one for start and the other for on. the one for on runs through the pink wire and is supposed to limit the volts to the coil to around 8. So when my truck is running and I am reading 12 volts at the coil might the ignition switch be bad since it is not switching to the pink wire 8 volt. Under the dash I did not find any spliced wires from the ones coming out of the ignition switch. I am hoping not to have to un-tape the harness under the dash if I can help it to sort this one.
The splice isn't under the dash, it's in the harness on the firewall side. I don't think the switch is the problem but the resistor wire might be. You need to find out what voltage is required for that blaster coil, it may not need the lower voltage..
 
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