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1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

speedo cable

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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 09:11 AM
  #16  
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NumberDummy is right. The non-factory 4wd is an issue for some parts. The front end is from a '64-'65. I know that, but I don't know the year for every part on the truck unless its an obvious '58 part. I know I have to be patient, ask questions, and take the time to learn.


Yes, I am going all the way back to the transfer case.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 07:43 PM
  #17  
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The CA3004 is only 84 inches. The 109 inch cable is sure to work.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by vntgtrk
Not trying to hijack but a related question. With these screw on ends at the trans, which pulse gen will I need if I elect to go with an electronic speedo? Is it the same size as the GM?
Hey Vntgtrk, I had the same issue with my three-on-the-tree when I purchased a Shark electronic speedo. They sent me the GM transducer. A good local speedometer shop made me an adapter to my specs, the Ford speedo gear that bolted into the three speed with the GM fitting about a foot off of that, which I mounted to the frame on a bracket. Worked perfectly.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 12:43 PM
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For a speedo cable you might try Napa part #615-1607 That one is 100 inches. They also have 120 and 140 inch cables as well as 80, and shorter. They are not in the computer. They were in an older book.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 10:14 AM
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The 100 inch cable fit well, but did not fix the problem. I could get the speedo needle to move with just the instrument end installed.

So, I guess the gear in the transfer case is the problem?
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 11:07 AM
  #21  
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Jason what is your tire size and differential gear.
When you remove the cable from the transfer case, below that is the part that threads in to the case and holds the driven gear in. You can pull this pretty easily. Then confirm all the teeth are intact. If that gear is good then you'll need to check the drive gear which is on the output shaft. My book from what I can tell, shows all drive gears to be 7 tooth (B9C-17285-A). And driven gears range from 18-22 teeth depending on tire size. (for the 4.56 diff.). Now with that said my book covers 4X4'S from 59-63, and I don't know how long the transfer case stayed the same.
Good luck in your quest!
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 11:21 AM
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I don't remember the tire size. They are whatever the PO (a rancher) found that were on rims that would bolt on. They don't even match. I have a friend who is going to give me a set of rims. They won't be era correct, but will at least match.

The 9 inch rear has 3.89's and the front has 3.92's. That will be addressed in the coming months. The transfer case is a Spicer 24.

I'll crawl under the truck this evening between work and Bible study and pull the drive gears.



My understanding is that Ford did not do a factory 4wd until 1959. Until then you could order a kit as a dealer addon. They used companies like NAPCO and MH. I do not have the NAPCO kit. I'm not sure what I have. My front end is from a '64 or '65 so it could be something a PO just put together.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 11:39 AM
  #23  
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In 59 the F100 came with 3.89 rear and 3.92 front. The F250 came with 4,56 rear and 4.55 front. Both came with Spicer 24 transfer case. If you know what dia. tire you will eventually have I can tell you what driven gear you may need.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 11:48 AM
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I thought gear ratio's were supposed to match?




The reason I was thinking the front end was from a 64 or 65 is because of the tag data on the front diff. I don't remember what the data was, I just remember the results after spending some time searching online.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 01:07 PM
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I thought gear ratio's were supposed to match?
My thought is that back in the day, it was not anticipated that you would use four wheel drive unless you were on loose unstable ground, so finale drive ratio's didn't need to match exactly. But I can say that when you are on solid ground my transfer case has enough bind on it to make it difficult to disengage the front drive. Some time I have to backup as I disengage. It may have to do with the straight cut gears also.
Just my thoughts/rambling.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 01:21 PM
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So, the wise thing for me to do would be to make them match? This will be a daily driver when it's ready for it and I'd like to cruise about 65-70 on the highway.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 02:04 PM
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Thats not necessary unless you are going to cruise in four wheel drive. Mine is a daily driver, the only time its locked in (do you have locking hubs) is when I'm off road and four wheeling.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 02:13 PM
  #28  
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Yes, I have locking hubs. They are Warn hubs. I would only be using it in snowy or icy conditions.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 01:20 PM
  #29  
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My driven gear has 24 teeth. They look to be intact but it might have some cupping in the middle of the splines. Does that make sense?

Called 4 places so far with no luck. The game is afoot.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by theodore/teddy
Jason what is your tire size and differential gear.
When you remove the cable from the transfer case, below that is the part that threads in to the case and holds the driven gear in. You can pull this pretty easily. Then confirm all the teeth are intact. If that gear is good then you'll need to check the drive gear which is on the output shaft. My book from what I can tell, shows all drive gears to be 7 tooth (B9C-17285-A). And driven gears range from 18-22 teeth depending on tire size. (for the 4.56 diff.). Now with that said my book covers 4X4'S from 59-63, and I don't know how long the transfer case stayed the same.
Good luck in your quest!
Is that just in the xfer cases or is that the same with the 4 sp trans?
 
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