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This is my first rebuild of this engine and I was wondering if there is a sequence that I need to use to put the head bolts, rocker shaft, and intake bolts?
That way it seals correctly with the gaskets.
Welcome to FTE. Since you have never rebuilt an FE engine before, you definitely need some tech data to go by. Most Ford truck vendors have the factory workshop manual that Schoo mentioned available, either in book form or on CD-ROM for a lot less money. A lot of people also like [U]How To Rebuild Big Block Ford Engines[U] by Steve Christ, or there's another book by Barry Rabotnick who runs Survival Motorsports, another FE expert. Vendors usually carry one or both of these books also. These engines are pretty finicky to assemble without leaks, even when you're following the directions closely. I would recommend you get one or more of these sources and check them out before starting your assembly. Better to do it once, slowly, but correctly, than to be in a hurry, have it go wrong, and have to pull the engine out of the truck again, or even just have to hoist the intake manifold (especially the factory non-aluminum one) out of the engine bay. For what it's worth (i.e., nothing), I got my Christ book from National Parts Depot. It would take too long to try to explain the order of torquing and three step procedure for the heads here. Same for the manifold. If you put the wrong rocker stand bolt in the wrong place you can cut off the oil to the rockers. Get the tech data and read it before you start. Good luck!
Welcome to FTE. Since you have never rebuilt an FE engine before, you definitely need some tech data to go by. Most Ford truck vendors have the factory workshop manual that Schoo mentioned available, either in book form or on CD-ROM for a lot less money. A lot of people also like [u]How To Rebuild Big Block Ford Engines[u] by Steve Christ, or there's another book by Barry Rabotnick who runs Survival Motorsports, another FE expert. Vendors usually carry one or both of these books also. These engines are pretty finicky to assemble without leaks, even when you're following the directions closely. I would recommend you get one or more of these sources and check them out before starting your assembly. Better to do it once, slowly, but correctly, than to be in a hurry, have it go wrong, and have to pull the engine out of the truck again, or even just have to hoist the intake manifold (especially the factory non-aluminum one) out of the engine bay. For what it's worth (i.e., nothing), I got my Christ book from National Parts Depot. It would take too long to try to explain the order of torquing and three step procedure for the heads here. Same for the manifold. If you put the wrong rocker stand bolt in the wrong place you can cut off the oil to the rockers. Get the tech data and read it before you start. Good luck!
I found online that you torque that head bolts down to 70lbs. then to 80lbs. then to 90lbs. But I was wondering if the bolts go in a certain way to. (i.e. outer, outer, outer, outer, in, in, in, in.)
Thanks for the advice. And I did put the wrong bolt in once already it snapped off and i had to get it machined out and that is why i need to get the heads back on again.
The cylinder head torque pattern is essentially top then bottom, starting in the center and working your way outboard equally, using the three step process you found. The intake manifold is as follows (as viewed from the front): Right center, Left center, Left front, Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Right rear inboard, Left front inboard, Right front inboard, Left rear inboard. Snug all bolts then torque to 32-35 foot pounds. Make any sense? Hope this helps.
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