12v Universal lock Actuators
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 249
From: Ringgold, Ga
12v Universal lock Actuators
These are the one's I found to use from Empiretc on this forum.
Much easier to do than the tinfoil fix I had prevousley done. Somehow a mechanic must of burned all mine up leaning on the switch. Anyway
Use test light to select the lock button operation direction on door harness. Joeyd61 gave me some nice wire splicer connectors. If I should have to replace any I just unplug the actuator.
Test direction before securing the splice, mine was backwards on the first one. U locked my door. LOL
I installed exactly like Empiretc's youtube video.
Another tip I used was hold the actuator outside to mark the lower hole to drill. The upper I used hole already there below the wire screw holder he speaks about. Grab a long nail to punch a mark. Match drill bit to screws given in actuator set.
The price of these with super fast shipping cant be beat.
QTY 4 Universal 12 Volt Power Door Lock Actuator Motor | eBay
Much easier to do than the tinfoil fix I had prevousley done. Somehow a mechanic must of burned all mine up leaning on the switch. Anyway
Use test light to select the lock button operation direction on door harness. Joeyd61 gave me some nice wire splicer connectors. If I should have to replace any I just unplug the actuator.
Test direction before securing the splice, mine was backwards on the first one. U locked my door. LOL
I installed exactly like Empiretc's youtube video.
Another tip I used was hold the actuator outside to mark the lower hole to drill. The upper I used hole already there below the wire screw holder he speaks about. Grab a long nail to punch a mark. Match drill bit to screws given in actuator set.
The price of these with super fast shipping cant be beat.
QTY 4 Universal 12 Volt Power Door Lock Actuator Motor | eBay
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,800
Likes: 52
From: Southern Colorado
I have installed universal actuators on two Super Duties and wouldn't do it any other way. I got to where I could remove the door panel and install and tune the actuator in about 15 minutes.
As for fixing the OEM actuators, I'm a pretty good wrench, but trying remove those factory actuators was pure evil. I left them in place and the aftermarket actuators easily overpower them.
As for fixing the OEM actuators, I'm a pretty good wrench, but trying remove those factory actuators was pure evil. I left them in place and the aftermarket actuators easily overpower them.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
I have aftermarket actuators installed on Motorbug. They came with the truck when i bought her. They would not even try to have enough oomph to do any good.
With them still installed i was able to get my factory actuators out and do the fix and put them back in in about 10-15 minutes each.
To date i have done the fix and reinstalled 26 factory actuators.
Only one of them kinda went awry and actuated backwards... (on twg1966's rig).
I just lost the actuator in the driver's door on Motorbug again... it has lasted over a year.
With them still installed i was able to get my factory actuators out and do the fix and put them back in in about 10-15 minutes each.
To date i have done the fix and reinstalled 26 factory actuators.
Only one of them kinda went awry and actuated backwards... (on twg1966's rig).
I just lost the actuator in the driver's door on Motorbug again... it has lasted over a year.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 790
Likes: 35
From: Austin
Thanks Petro! I did my locks this morning. Took about an hour.
Having previously done the penny fix on the factory actuators, I can say that adding the aftermarket actuators was easier and less time consuming.
On mine, the little yellow plastic clip with a loop that holds the door **** in place was no longer doing its job, it would pop out and not hold the rod in place. I just put a zip tie thru that hole and around the rod to snugly, but not tightly, hold the rod in place.
Also, there were 4 wires in the cable going to the factory actuator. The 2 pink/red ones I wired to the new actuator. The other wires were smaller diameter and I think they were black...what are those for? I did not leave the pink/red ones connected to the factory actuator, I cut them and they now only go the aftermarket actuator.
Having previously done the penny fix on the factory actuators, I can say that adding the aftermarket actuators was easier and less time consuming.
On mine, the little yellow plastic clip with a loop that holds the door **** in place was no longer doing its job, it would pop out and not hold the rod in place. I just put a zip tie thru that hole and around the rod to snugly, but not tightly, hold the rod in place.
Also, there were 4 wires in the cable going to the factory actuator. The 2 pink/red ones I wired to the new actuator. The other wires were smaller diameter and I think they were black...what are those for? I did not leave the pink/red ones connected to the factory actuator, I cut them and they now only go the aftermarket actuator.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 249
From: Ringgold, Ga
Yes the bigger pink wires are what was in my 2000. Anyone doing this needs to check wires with test light.
That way you get the Lock an Unlock function the right way.
I went out on wife date last nite, my locks slam up/down with force. Very happy with my fix.
BigTex you prob did it easier by just cutting and connecting to actuators. I spent more time splicing inline with the factory actuator.
That way you get the Lock an Unlock function the right way.
I went out on wife date last nite, my locks slam up/down with force. Very happy with my fix.
BigTex you prob did it easier by just cutting and connecting to actuators. I spent more time splicing inline with the factory actuator.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 790
Likes: 35
From: Austin
Also, there were 4 wires in the cable going to the factory actuator. The 2 pink/red ones I wired to the new actuator. The other wires were smaller diameter and I think they were black...what are those for? I did not leave the pink/red ones connected to the factory actuator, I cut them and they now only go the aftermarket actuator.
Guess I'll have to splice those back together next time I have the doors off.
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 683
Likes: 1
From: cincinnati, oh.
dang gone, i should have done this 5 yrs. ago when they stopped working. now they snap up and down like a boss. 
the only advise someone may want from my install is... the actuator did not sit flat inside the door skin, where the metal turned back in, it interfered with the up motion. so i took a piece of 1/4 inch wood i had cut off the bottom of a door yesterday on the job and cut it down in length to about 1/2 longer than the mounting holes and placed that between the door and actuator. it gave it the clearance it needed and allowed it to mount flat. i also drilled both my own holes to keep everything in a straight line.
bought mine off the flea for ten bucks.
the only advise someone may want from my install is... the actuator did not sit flat inside the door skin, where the metal turned back in, it interfered with the up motion. so i took a piece of 1/4 inch wood i had cut off the bottom of a door yesterday on the job and cut it down in length to about 1/2 longer than the mounting holes and placed that between the door and actuator. it gave it the clearance it needed and allowed it to mount flat. i also drilled both my own holes to keep everything in a straight line.
bought mine off the flea for ten bucks.
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