Clutch cylinder question
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Elder User
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From: Smokey Mountains TN
Clutch cylinder question
I have been looking at a replacement slave cylinder as mine is worn a bit . Also my master is worn. I did notice there are am flywheel and dmf sets available at rock auto . They also have heavy duty sets. Is there realy a difference between the sm and the dmf setup?
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Smokey Mountains TN
im looking at replacing both.. but again, im just curious, why there is advertising for heavy duty, smf and dmf ? also the “heavy duty" is advertised with a “heavy duty” line.. i thought its steel. 
.maybe heavy duty steel 
.maybe heavy duty steel
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Smokey Mountains TN
just out of curiosity. Anybody used this kind before ?
More Information for ACDELCO 386400
would be a nice change, while doing the clutch one day
More Information for ACDELCO 386400
would be a nice change, while doing the clutch one day
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Smokey Mountains TN
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
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From: Madison, WI
First link is for an internal slave, for a completely different type of transmission. Internal-slave clutch systems are a PITA; in many cases, you have to pull the tranny to remove the slave. Thank the stars, we don't have to worry about that.
We're running that Rhinopac product (second link) on our ECLB, 20,000-ish miles and no problems so far. One suggestion - ditch the craptastic plastic bushing where the pedal arm stud enters the pushrod eyelet. Replace with a short piece of brass tubing, 7/16"ID x 1/2"OD. Assemble, and then put a 7/16" drill stop collar on the part of the stud that sticks through, and tighten. It'll hold better and last a lot longer than that stooopid plastic thing.
Don't forget to use the latest 5% discount code, if you're going with RockAuto.
We're running that Rhinopac product (second link) on our ECLB, 20,000-ish miles and no problems so far. One suggestion - ditch the craptastic plastic bushing where the pedal arm stud enters the pushrod eyelet. Replace with a short piece of brass tubing, 7/16"ID x 1/2"OD. Assemble, and then put a 7/16" drill stop collar on the part of the stud that sticks through, and tighten. It'll hold better and last a lot longer than that stooopid plastic thing.
Don't forget to use the latest 5% discount code, if you're going with RockAuto.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Smokey Mountains TN
thanks for the info , especially about the coupon 
(btw where do i get it ?)
As for that bushing.. already got rid of it.
one of the reasons to change the cylinders is, that when i installed them, i noticed the slave cylinder had some restrictions and got stuck a couple times half way in.. was hoping, if i go with the heavy duty, maybe my pressure on the pedal is a little less, as i do not know the condition of both cylinders
(btw where do i get it ?)As for that bushing.. already got rid of it.
one of the reasons to change the cylinders is, that when i installed them, i noticed the slave cylinder had some restrictions and got stuck a couple times half way in.. was hoping, if i go with the heavy duty, maybe my pressure on the pedal is a little less, as i do not know the condition of both cylinders
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From: Smokey Mountains TN
Question : I took my slave cylinder out to grease the fork and the shaft the bearing rides on . I did not remove the line from the cylinders . While installing, I had to push the rod a little into the slave . Now I have to pump up pressure every time the truck sits for more that an hr ? Any suggestions ? Fluid is full.
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