ARP head stud questions
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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ARP head stud questions
I have just recently purchased my first Super Duty. A 2006 F350 SRW crew cab with the 6.0 and an automatic trans. The truck only has 51,000 miles on so far with no issues but I have been thinking of doing some preventative maintenance. I want to add a coolant filter, complete an egr delete, and have been thinking of head studs. My question is if I do the studs do I need to change the head gaskets, even if there are not any problems? Can I just replace a bolt at a time with a stud? I have also heard of some removing the cab to get access. Is this mandatory? Lastly I want to do a turbo back exhaust, perhaps a mbrp, or do you have any recommendations?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2006
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I keep hearing people wanting to do this, but why? If your head studs are holding up, why replace them. I'd like to know. I have 174,430 miles on my truck now. Stock everything. Just wondering why anyone recommends replacing before there is an issue.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 355
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From: Spring Hill, FL
Why spend $500 for nothing? Especially with only 50k on it. Buy a coolant filter, do a flush and a scan gauge and drive it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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A lot of times people have coolant puking and when they have the engine torn down they find that they have fairly heavy corrosion on the head and block surfaces. That indicates that they have had a small leak for quite some time before the issue got big enough to puke, etc.
I would want to watch the degas bottle pressure, and also to monitor the temperature differential (EOT-ECT) on the oil cooler, before making a decision on head stids being installed one-at-a-time. These are no guarantees. but doing head studs one-at-a-time is taking a risk (so is adding hp, but clearly it is worth it to many of us!). No doubt people have done it and have apparently had success, but not too many people have posted up their "miles driven" after a one-at-a-time install.
Like others above - what is your goal here? More hp? More reliability?
I would want to watch the degas bottle pressure, and also to monitor the temperature differential (EOT-ECT) on the oil cooler, before making a decision on head stids being installed one-at-a-time. These are no guarantees. but doing head studs one-at-a-time is taking a risk (so is adding hp, but clearly it is worth it to many of us!). No doubt people have done it and have apparently had success, but not too many people have posted up their "miles driven" after a one-at-a-time install.
Like others above - what is your goal here? More hp? More reliability?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,369
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
I don't have the tensile strength for the TTY bolts but I know that the ARP's is something like 210,000. I also know the ARP's are reusable.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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A couple of good articles
Nuts About Bolts: Engine Builder
http://www.acl.co.nz/Tech/Torque%20T...0Headbolts.pdf
Nuts About Bolts: Engine Builder
http://www.acl.co.nz/Tech/Torque%20T...0Headbolts.pdf
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From: Other side of the sunrise
A lot of times people have coolant puking and when they have the engine torn down they find that they have fairly heavy corrosion on the head and block surfaces. That indicates that they have had a small leak for quite some time before the issue got big enough to puke, etc.
I would want to watch the degas bottle pressure, and also to monitor the temperature differential (EOT-ECT) on the oil cooler, before making a decision on head stids being installed one-at-a-time. These are no guarantees. but doing head studs one-at-a-time is taking a risk (so is adding hp, but clearly it is worth it to many of us!). No doubt people have done it and have apparently had success, but not too many people have posted up their "miles driven" after a one-at-a-time install.
Like others above - what is your goal here? More hp? More reliability?
I would want to watch the degas bottle pressure, and also to monitor the temperature differential (EOT-ECT) on the oil cooler, before making a decision on head stids being installed one-at-a-time. These are no guarantees. but doing head studs one-at-a-time is taking a risk (so is adding hp, but clearly it is worth it to many of us!). No doubt people have done it and have apparently had success, but not too many people have posted up their "miles driven" after a one-at-a-time install.
Like others above - what is your goal here? More hp? More reliability?
Personally, (if keeping stock) I think I'd run the truck as is and keep money in the bank account for the possible gasket/stud job, just in case it becomes necessary. If the gaskets hold up for as long as you own the truck, then you'll still have the money for something cool for the garage. But as Bismic mentioned, that would also depend on what you plan on doing with the truck. If you are upping HP/TQ, then you may want to get studs in there to hold against higher cylinder pressures.
Wiser by FTE
Joined: Jan 2010
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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It sounds like it might be best to wait on the studs until a problem is suspected. I do not really plan on adding anymore power at this time as this truck pulls the race truck well as is, especially when compared too my previous gas powered truck. I think I may still do the egr delete and coolant filter, as well as add a scan gauge as reliability on long trips is my main concern. I would also like to add a larger exhaust. I was thinking about the mbrp 5 inch but was up for hearing suggestions from you guys.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,723
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From: Roseburg, OR
That sounds like a good plan. I heard somewhere that there is no advantage running 5" over the 4". I believe that you just get a deeper sound. MBRP makes a quality product. I was thinking about going with the Diamond Eye myself. Just because it would support my local area.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 904
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plastic deformation occurs, and the bolts cannot be reused.
you won't get the clamping on a re torque.