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i've looked here and still don't think i've got it right.. i'm being told my tk body is really a '48 with '51 front end..
VIN= 98RD#######.
I'M finding this info (9 = 1949, 1950 & 1951 continue the 1949 number)
the continue the '49 is confusing me big time..
what i've found is the 9= a '51, 8R is the engine, D is F2 model. i haven't a clue if this is correct.. its titled as a '51 and want to sell it but i sure don't want to pass on a problem to a new owner.
bill
I've looked here and still don't think I've got it right.. i'm being told my tk body is really a '48 with '51 front end..
VIN= 98RD#######.
It's titled as a '51 and want to sell it but i sure don't want to pass on a problem to a new owner.
bill
I can't decipher the VINs earlier than 51, but your truck has a 51 or 52 front end with 52 hood trim. And your VIN is before 51, so 48-50.
The 51 VIN starts with the model "F4 H1 RH 12345" for example.
The 98RD is a 49 or 50 Flathead 8 F2. Your cab is a 48-50, and your doghouse appears to be a 51. I would start by (which I would have done BEFORE I bought the truck) checking the serial number stamped in the frame.
Several bits of information are missing for us to be able to answer your question fully.
First, we need to know the entire vin, as I'm guessing it doesn't really end with ######. Trust me, we're not going to steal your truck's identity. Knowing the consecutive unit number will tell us several things and complete the vin puzzle.
Second, where do you see this number? Title? Frame? Firewall or glove box tag? Someplace else?
Third, you said you were told you have a 48 body with a 51 nose? Why do you believe this? What back window and dash style do you have? Early or late?
Have you verified any of the numbers with those from the other locations I mentioned? Is there any other details about the truck you want to share with us that will be helpful?
the vin on the tk is 98RD201578
the gage bezzle is one piece with square on right side and rounded on the left side.. speedo on left and the 4 gages to the right of it. the vin is on the passenger side firewall. the frame has heavy coat of bed liner coating so seeing that ain't gonna happen. i had it for sale on ebay and a fella that has a '51 told me the body is wrong for the yr.. he mentioned its a '48 body with '51 front sheet metal.. i know someone at dmv headquarters and have sent him an email to assistance on this... i will say one thing, once this gets sorted out i'm going back to st rods... mod's are the norm
the vin on the tk is 98RD201578
the gage bezzle is one piece with square on right side and rounded on the left side.. speedo on left and the 4 gages to the right of it. the vin is on the passenger side firewall. the frame has heavy coat of bed liner coating so seeing that ain't gonna happen. i had it for sale on ebay and a fella that has a '51 told me the body is wrong for the yr.. he mentioned its a '48 body with '51 front sheet metal.. i know someone at dmv headquarters and have sent him an email to assistance on this... i will say one thing, once this gets sorted out i'm going back to st rods... mod's are the norm
That serial number is a 1950. As Wayne pointed out, you will have to scrape the bed liner coating off the frame on the passenger side next to the radiator. That serial number location is the ONLY number that counts Legally. That plate on the firewall is the 'data plate', there should also be an 'ID' plate on the inside of the glove box door, but they all have to match the number stamped in the frame.
... i will say one thing, once this gets sorted out i'm going back to st rods... mod's are the norm
I don't understand what you mean. There's nothing wrong with what was done to create your truck, it's just a matter of using the correct serial number for titling purposes. The same rules apply to ALL vehicles, it's not unique to old trucks.
From my understanding, the changeover from 49 to 50 occurred around the 300,000 mark, so a 201,000 consecutive unit number should be a 1949 vintage. My guess it's a 49 F2 that someone put a 52 nose on at some point. Either from collision damage or because a po liked manure spreaders better than monkey faces. Either way it's not the end of the world. Let sleeping dogs lay and don't worry about it. Enjoy it or send it off to a better home. That's your choice.
From my understanding, the changeover from 49 to 50 occurred around the 300,000 mark, so a 201,000 consecutive unit number should be a 1949 vintage. My guess it's a 49 F2 that someone put a 52 nose on at some point. Either from collision damage or because a po liked manure spreaders better than monkey faces. Either way it's not the end of the world. Let sleeping dogs lay and don't worry about it. Enjoy it or send it off to a better home. That's your choice.
Wayne, you are correct, I was thinking it was 150,000 but that is wrong it was actually somewhere around 275,000, so I agree that it would be a '49.
As far as letting sleeping dogs lay, he is looking to sell the truck and is concerned about making sure everything is correct before hand to avoid problems later.
As far as letting sleeping dogs lay, he is looking to sell the truck and is concerned about making sure everything is correct before hand to avoid problems later.[/QUOTE]
that is correct joe, when i build my st rods i keep a ton of documentation to prove what i tell DMV police theft unit. then i get an assigned vin number. this my first step into the antique market, and so far i'm stepping in poop. i'll get it sorted out.. i guess what i really need is a definitive and provable info to give to dmv that states... yes as u can see the vin really states it's a 49. as far a cleaning off the frame to get to other vin.. thats gonna be a major pain. most likely gotta pull the rad (again). i fear leaning on the fender and damage the paint one of these times.. when the guy came to pick up my Tbucket and i handed him the booklet his jaw dropped. he'd never seen this much info on a build.. its called bad memory and wright it down !!!!
tks for all the help. bill
If you pull the right front wheel, and remove the starter access panel from the inner fender, you should be right about where the serial number is, it will still be a little forward but you should be able to reach the area.
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