Hello Everybody,

I purchased my Excursion about 10 days ago and this weekend I will be changing most of the fluids and all of the filters. Below is a list of what I plan to go with and intervals that I have seen for the changes. If anybody has any better ideas please let me know.

Engine Rotella 5W-40 T6
5000 miles

Power Steering Mercon/Dextron III
As needed

Transfer case Mercon/Dextron III or synthetic. Replace every 100K or as needed. If using 4x4 often then every 30K-60K.

Front Differential synthetic 80W-90

Rear Differential 75W-140 Synthetic with friction fighter or add a friction fighter additive.
Every 100K

Top and bottom fuel filter

I am not planning to change the engine coolant just yet, I am ordering an EGR Delete and will be draining the fluid for this install so I will change the coolant then.

I have seen many different threads talking about the EGR Delete and oil cooler change, why do I need to change the cooler inside the engine, wouldn't it be better to add an external cooler in front of the radiator?

Thanks,
Jeff

 

Your notes on fluids look just like mine . So if your wrong, I'm wrong too!

The oil cooler needs replaced only if it is clogging up. Not really a "while your in there" type of repair for most of us. To determine if it's clogging, monitor engine oil temp and coolant temp with an OBDII monitor of your choice. If oil temp doesn't exceed coolant by 15*f it is serviceable.


EOT/ECT check
TSB 09-8-3
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...3&d=1318287140

NOTE: many people substitute crusing unloaded at 65mph with ECT over 190* instead of the full throttle test described in the TSB above.

The external coolers are a nice piece and a few members here have (and like) them. They are pricy however and for most of us a properly working factory cooler does the job nicely.

 

Might be time to retire that TSB if Ford diesel techs like Juggernaut use this:

THE CORRECT PROCEEDURE FOR CHECKING DELTAS!
NOTE: Verify that no accessories are in use (engine block or oil heaters).
Clear all the DTCs.

Cold soak the vehicle at ambient temperature for a minimum of 10 hours.

Ignition ON, engine OFF.

Access the PCM and monitor the ECT (TEMP) PID.

Access the PCM and monitor the EOT (TEMP) PID.

Access the PCM and monitor the RPM (RPM) PID.

Access the PCM and monitor the MFDES (MASS) PID.

Record the ECT and EOT sensor temperature values.

Drive the vehicle at an engine speed greater than 1,800 RPM and 15 mg/stroke MFDES for at least 15 minutes. Select the appropriate gear to achieve the operating conditions.

Does the ECT PID and EOT PID temperature values change by a minimum of 6ºC (10ºF) from when the ignition ON, engine OFF valves were recorded?

IF Yes
INSTALL a new oil cooler kit.

IF NO
INSTALL a new ECT sensor or EOT sensor in question.

CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

Now.....

1800 RPM is 65 mph in my truck in OD. Kind of a funny coincidence 'eh?

Josh

 

I'm using Royal Purple Max ATF Synthetic Oil for the power steering pump, Royal Purple Max Gear with friction modifier additive 75W-140 for the rear diff and will change the front diff when I fix the front axle leak. I was able to get the factory oil filter cap so that will get replaced.

This diesel is getting expensive and I just started.

 

So you would need to do 66 or more mph, or drop to a lower gear right?

 

Motorcraft brand filters only for fuel, oil and transmission and while you are at it, I would drain the tranny pan. You will need to drain and add 7.5 quarts of Mercon LV Transmission Fluid. It sells for $5.99 per quart at O'Reilly's Auto Parts around here. If you can find it cheaper, go for it. Then in about 100 miles, do it again, and another 100, do it again. The experts will correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what I did. Shifts much better now and the fluid looks great!

 

Yes, Motorcraft filters all the way around, both fuel filters and oil filter. I am not changing the tranny fluid this weekend but will be taking the X to the dealership in the next couple of weeks for a heated flush. I will have them install a new tranny filter while they are at it.

I thinking about painting the rear diff cover hot pink, just to be different and because my wife has a thing for hot pink. Maybe I will paint the front cover the same when I do that one.

 

When I went through my motor I changed to Mobil 1 turbo diesel truck 5w40 and am very happy with it.

 

Many people here on the forums have gone for a 'heated' flush and found out the dealer doesn't have the equipment. Ask them over the phone or in person how the 'heated' flush works. It's a myth... I have found absolutely NO dealerships within 100 miles of me that does the proper flush. Many dealerships say they have never even heard of it. They ask me what it is.

 

My dealer has the heated flush machine. Westland ford in Ogden, Utah

 

I use Mock Ford in Grants Pass, OR. They have a heated flush machine.

 

Use Dexron V synthetic for the P.S. and install a Magnefine #R038M filter in the return line. Go to diesel filters online and get Racor filters for the oil and fuel filters. Much cheaper and Racor makes them for Motorcraft. On the external tranny filter get NTZ made for Motorcraft once again. The internal tranny filter doesn't need changing. For the air filter use only Donaldson with the blue media for moisture protection.