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hey everyone, I'm rebuilding/fortifying a 360 for my friend; right now it's disassembled on the engine stand, and will be for a few more days, but I am starting to consider how to install it back in the truck, and was wondering what the best way to lift would be?
When we pulled it, we removed the front and rear intake bolts on each side and bolted a chain in each one of those locations, which gave us a stable lift using large bolts that I trust to hold the engine.
What I've been thinking though is when I install the new Edelbrock intake and torque it down to spec, I don't want to remove four of the bolts and lift the engine at those points for fear that something might get tweaked and my intake wouldn't seal, so I was thinking about one of those carburetor flange lifting plates, but worry that it might not be strong enough.... I know the FE is a heavy engine.... seems to me like I remember reading somewhere that it is the heaviest series of Ford V8.
What do you guys think? And what would you suggest? And, out of curiosity, what do you think an assembled 360 without accessories would weigh?
I'd still use the 2 or 4bolts that go through the manifold and into the steel heads. I'd be a little concerned using the smaller carb bolts and the aluminum intake.
Funny to mention this. I just rebuilt my 390 and put it in the bay last weekend. I used a carb plate and I was surprised how strong it is. Everyone at the machine shop had told me it would be find but I was very sceptical. Turns out it was fine. I had no problems and I was told it could have held the stock weight of the motor as well.
If you use the carb plate, I wouldn't worry a bit.
I also used a carb plate. A friend at work cut on out of an I-beam using a carb gasket as a pattern and it worked great except to motor tiled abit to the rear and was cumbersom when I needed it to be level for bolt installations. Be sure and cinch your bolts very snug and use lockwashers to be on the safe side.
There is much more to using those carb plate hoisting gizmos. The strength of the carb studs and nuts are questionable. I am sure they aren't even close to a grade five. The use of those studs and nuts isn't very safe in my opinion because the threads on them are not made to withstand the weight of an engine. Swap out the stock carb studs with some grade eight studs and use full nuts or double nuts and I wouldn't be afraid to use it with a cast iron intake.
It is absolutely a bad idea to use the carb plate hoisting with an aluminum intake manifold. I wonder if the company actually tested it enough before they marketed it. There are some very heavy engines such as the FE and it has the same type of carb studs and nuts as a 302.
Ford made hoisting brackets and mounted them in a way that there is a shear force applied to the bolts holding them on. I am sure this was done for a reason. Isn't the shear strength of bolts much better than the strength of threads and heads of them?
the FE isn't as heavy as most people think, with aluminum head and intake it's as heavy as a 351W, it's a good 100lbs lighter than the 460 and some people have used carb lift plates on an aluminum intake with the FE, I prefer to use the accesory head bolts on the front and back of opposing heads since you get a lower grip on the engine and can raise it higher to clear the radiator just use a piece of heater hose over the chain so you dont mar the intake and your set
I use the same bolt holes that FE427TP uses.
The engine tend's to want to tist but you can deal with it . .
These engines and any other engine are heavy so please be careful !
I put the engine in without the manifold then installed the al. manifold later....no worries that way. A carb plate into an al. manifold scares the hell outta me.
Use the accessory holes on the heads and borrow or rent a leveler. I put a 390 with the tranny, brackets up front, and the intake in by myself in and hour using a leveler. I was a little worried about the size and depth of these holes but they held fine.
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