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Using washers on intake bolts + engine install question
Hi All,
Any reason a person shouldn't use washers on intake bolts? I know the cast one didn't use any but after installing and removing my aluminum intake the bolts have chewed into the aluminum a little. I'm thinking of using thin flat washers when I assemble it this time around.
Thoughts?
Also, is it safe to lift the motor/tranny with intake bolts with an aluminum intake? I would use the ones on the heads, but I would like to attach at 4 points in order to use my engine leveler and install the engine/tranny as a combo and it needs to go in at a 45 degree angle. I'm afraid if I only use 2 mounting points the motor might want to roll. BUT I also don't want to crack my intake attaching to it.
Thin flat washers would be a good idea with an aluminum intake; and use a little sealer on both sides of the washer.
I have used the 4 carburetor mount holes on my Edelbrock Performer to lift the engine in & out with a steel plate, but it worried me a little. I don't think I would try lifting both engine and transmision with it though. I am not a big fan of the strength properties of cast aluminum.
I would warn against lifting an engine and trans from an aluminum intake. You won't crack the Manifold, but you can pull the threads out, and drop the whole works on the shop floor. I have heard of this happening with small blocks, so I would not even think about picking up an FE in this manner. Good luck to you. -Kevin
If I were to lift using the bolts that bolt the intake to the heads those threads are in the heads, so they would be pretty strong, but the idea still worries me.
I would really like to install them together, but maybe it would just be safer to install the motor and tranny seperatly.
Anyone know if my theory of using the front/rear of the heads would make the engine roll when angled up? I'm not positive this would happen, just figured it would.
This is surely the strongest way to lift a complete motor.
I've never used a leveler, just set my angle by trial and error. One thing I did bank on, all that weight on one ******-point makes it hard to shift your load around. If I'm close, I'll work against gravity a little and swing things where I want them.
Just an Idea; why not use studs at your desired ****** points? Use a washer and nut against the manifold, a second nut to lift against. When it's done, the first nut stays. I'm thinking this should take much strain off the manifold.
For years on aluminum intakes I machined the OD down on .040" thick stainless steel washers, marine supply. Used sealer on both sides, removed the excess sealer after installing, no leaks for years.
I pulled a couple of 390's using the holes in the head ends. I used a leveler as well with no issues. The shear strenght of a bolt, that is it's ability to take tanagential or side loads, is much higher then its straight pull strength when fully "seated". That being said it is super important that the bolt is tight against whatever you are holding, not threaded part way in and hanging out in space, which would allow the bolt to bend. Like using a shouldered eye bolt without pulling it down against it's shoulder. I wouldn't dance the Samba on the engine in the air but you will do fine.
Well my question towards using the head bolts wasn't about strenght, but about attaching to the motor at 2 points, diagonally, then cranking the leveler to tilt the motor to a 45 degree angle. This would move the pivot point towards the front right corner (if you're looking at it from front), and in theory that should also rock the motor to one side because the pivot point is not longer centered from side to side.
With a four point setup it would just tilt the motor front to back at a 45 and not tilt from side to side.