Hey everyone new to the forum here for posting, however I've been reading your threads for the past couple years and have been amazed at the wealth of knowledge carried. I have a 82 f150 that I purchased under the assumption that it was in decent shape, new rebuilt engine, transmition, bla bla bla. well to make a short story long that's the last time I ever believe a used car salesman, and 6 months later another new enging transmition 9in rear end and rebuilt ttb im here. but ive got a couple quirks and I figured id give yall a shot. first of I installed a 268h comp cam I belive lit is .468ish and duration around 180 degrees. since the installation I have horrible valve lash and I cant get rid of it, I have torqed each stud on tdc of each cylinder to no prevail and have done it to 17,20, and 25ft lbs. secondly is my blinker, it works very slow and dim even though my headlights are bright but as soon as I turn on my headlights the quit. third is my ttb I need to drop it 2 in but I am unable to find 2 in brackets 4 and 6 all day but no 2. and fourth I have rebuilt the rear end and the driver side axle seal leaks new seals and bearings and everythings national. And again thankyou for any advice I really appreciate being able to come somewhere reliable for good advice.

 

The valvetrains on most Ford engines are not adjustable. Tightening the bolt is not going to do you any good as you have found out. You first need to determine are the rockers too loose or too tight? I am assuming too loose, because if a bunch of them where too tight it probably would not run.
You can buy longer pushrods. There may be some other ways to get there also, short of screw-in studs and guidplates. If they are too tight you can sometimes put a shim under the rocker pedestal.

You have a bad ground at one of your sockets. Take the bulbs out of the 4 corners of the truck and clean the connections on the bulbs and the sockets and then try it.

The ride height is very difficult to change on a ttb and keep the tire wear in check. If you are going to lift it, and spend all the money on the brackets and everything else. people just go ahead and do 4 inches, 2inches is not worth it I guess. No one wants to keep a 2 inch lift on the shelf, they would never sell it, 4 and 6 are more popular.

Look at the block where the brake line goes down to the rearend. Unbolt this block, the bolt should be hollow and a hose hooks to it. This the breather and if the hole is clogged, the rearend will build pressure when the oil gets warm and push oil beyond the seals.

 

Thanks I figured the pushrods are going to be too short I have not had time to measure the clearance but I will after work today, I believe its .125 o .175 with the lifter bled all the way out.
And with the blinks its all rewired on the chassi, and new 6 conductor deutch plugs to replace oem. And the ground behind the taillight has been cleaned well. my volt meter doesn't respond fast enough to really read the voltage on the plug but it seems to only be 3-4 volts not much at all, and that's without any load.

 

sorry compute frose and I accidently sent it, but anyways the indicator light behind your wiper/light **** blinks in sync with the blinker. and with the lights on the blinker indicators on the dash become illuminated. I have a feeling this is going to end up with m taking the dash back off a chasing wires. the lift im really wanting to keep at two I don't wanna go much higher I've got 250 spring in the back and a spacer up front. do you know of anyone that might have fabed a bracket on their own. I have heard of putting 2 in steel tube under the oem bracket. axle seal, im at a loss it leaks sitting and ive installed it to spec 4 times and I cant get the cup to seal on the axle.

 

I know you don't believe me, but you have a grounding problem on this truck. If you have the lights grounded well to the frame, is the frame grounded? Is the cab grounded?

The factory ran the large ground wire from the battery, down to the frame where they stripped some of the insulation off and put a metal clamp around it going to the frame. It then continued on to the engine block.

They then ran a ground strap from one of the bellhousing bolts up and bolted it to the firewall to ground the cab sheetmetal. Also some of the trucks had a ground strap bolted to the frame on the pass side near the front cab mount, and then it ran around and was bolted to the floorboard.

If you have grounded the lights to the bed, then I would run a wire from the bed to the frame after you make sure the frame is grounded.

 

well I would figure 1/0 ga wire from the batter to the frame, 1/0 ga from the battry to the block, and 6 ga from the block to the cab would be sufficient but ill try another 6 ga wire to the bed and frame and see if that might help.

 

sorry 4 ga from the block to the cab so ill do another 4 ga from the bed to the frame tonight

 

I would not add more wires. I would do some checking first. Get a long scrap piece of wire and hook it to the battery negative. Pull the lense out of the front of the truck, twist the socket out that holds the bulb.

Turn the lights on and then the blinker on that side, and while it's messing up, take your scrap piece of wire that is hooked to the battery neg, and jamb the end down in beside the bulb as it sits in the socket. See if that cures the problem as long as the wire is making contact with the outside of the bulb.

 

ok ill try that im still mid restoration one the truck, and the ground is making sense now that I actually think about it ncaa not only is surface area for the ground reduced by the steel body lift I also coated the frame in a marine epoxy with a color coat one top off that im home now so as soon as I finish measuring valve clearence ill begin the hrounding issue.......gunna be a long night. And thanks for keeping up one the post I appteciate the input

 

Ok just tried passenger side in engine bay the ground was close enough no jumper was needed you nailed it man just a simple ground lumens picked up, signal speed rose, and they stayed on when I turned one my headlights.

 

Ok some I have re grounded the chassis and the lights are brighter but the left blinker doesn't work. When I turn one the lights the light indicator bulb comes one and the blinker indicator comes on, and when I turned the blinkers on without turning on the lights the blinker indicator and light indicator blink together. I pulled apart the dash again and checked the printed circut and theres no short one it or where the plus plgs in.the only mod I have done too the dash is hard wire in a tach and its too the main power, main ground and the green for the pulse. Any ideas one where too look, possibly the light switch?

 

It stills sounds like a ground problem in the left front socket. That would be the connection from the bulb to the socket, the connection from the socket to the wire, or the connection of the wire to a proper ground.

You can do the experiment again on that bulb to verify it. But it still sounds like a ground.

You have two different circuits feeding this bulb. One is the turn flasher circuit, and the other is the running lights. When you turn on the running lights with a bad ground, the power runs down to the bulb on the brown wire, runs through the bulb, and is supposed to go out the common ground wire for both circuits. But there is no ground, so the voltage from the brown wire runs backwards up the turnsignal wire, sees the bulb in the dash, and runs backwards through the bulb in the dash and finally finds a ground up there somewhere. That's why the dash indicator is lighting up.

Then when headlights and the turnsignals are working together with a bad ground, the two voltages just bump heads at the bulb and usually nothing works, since both of them have no ground, or usually something weird happens with the lights.

 

Ok well im not really sure I under stand how but you were 100% correctly grounding issues were the culprit. Screwed them all in too cleaner metal and it works great now. Also the axle issue im paying a shop too pull off the brand new bearings I put on( man that hurts I spent 4 hours beating the retaners rings and.new seals on) and put another new set along with another new seal, hopefully I wont marr the new one up but I wont have it till monday. I still have the overheating wire in the dash though its red with a green stripe and it only overheats when I turned the key to the on position and plug in the ds2 module. Granted I can plug in the module without the hot wire on the coil and it doesnt overheat but as soon as I put a hot wire too it it heats up fast. I dont know if it matters but its a mallory coil.

 

We have got a thread going on here debating aftermarket coils on the DS2 system. I don't recommend it.

Also, if you rewired everything, did you include a resistor in the red/green going to the coil. It's supposed to have one to control the current in this wire in the run position.

 

No I did not I wasnt aware off that any particular ohms or is it something I need too get ahold off the manufacturer about. And yes ive been reading it and given them the issues ive had as a deterant for an upgraded coil, however when I began this rebuild my body was off the frame bc I was in the middle of sandblasting the frame and I was ordering parts I thought I wanted or needed. most everything is going together well but some things like this I just didnt have the time or forethought too do the appropriate research.