This is how we learn

 

The factory used a special resistance wire made into the original harness. They call for a 1.05 to 1.15 ohm resistance. I have nevered measured one, but I keep telling people to go to the store and buy one of those large white resistors made for a Chrysler and hook it up, and it seems to work for everyone. You would need to mount this on the firewall somewhere, and run your coil + to this first, and then run out of the other end of the resistor to the coil +.

They do bypass this resistor during cranking, and if you have a starter solenoid with two small terminals on it, you can run a wire from the "I" terminal on the solenoid, to the terminal on the resistor that goes directly to the coil +. This will give you 12v during cranking, and then after it starts, the power for the coil will go through the resistor.

 

Yes its definatly been a steep learning curb but some far I have enjoyed it, and ok ill be headed too the parts store here soon and ask them for it, any particular name or description for the ceramic resistor

 

Autozone sells an adjustable ballast resistor made by Mallory for $24.99. And they will have to order it. It's part number 700.

 

I just picked up the resistor at advance, all I said was ignition resistor for and old crystler and hey knew exactly what I needed.I didnt get too do much today due too weather here we just had a big cold front come down and dumped a pile of rain one us. However tommorow ill have the axle parts and hopefully be able to pick up my axle the same day. Also ill make sure I put the resistor in and see if it cools that red with green stripe wire going up too my steering column down. By the way whats the purpose off supplying 12v to your coil on start up and then switching too 6-9v with the resistor under normal running conditions?

 

Full battery voltage makes starting easier; reduced voltage lowers the temperature & load and keeps it from burning out prematurely.

 

ok so far I have gotten the axle back from the shop and it will be going in today, with a little more care this time so I don't mess up the second brand new seal. The red and green wire under the dash is still extremely hot and I measured the voltage coming out of it and even without the resistor inline the voltage is around 6-7 vdc. I have read in a post(I've forgotten where) but that ford used a special resistance wire for the coil is it possible that the wire is suppose to get as hot as it is getting??? no thermometer but I would guess 130*F/150*F. And valve lash is still getting me I have tried several ways to measure the depth of my pushrod into the hydraulic adjuster, but I am unable to bleed it down. I have tried running it and letting it cool down and even letting is sit for a couple days(4).

 

I thought I read in one of these posts that you re-wired this truck? That's why I thought you may have lost the original resistance wire Ford used. But if you are using the stock harness, then you should still have the resistance wire in the harness. The Chrysler type resistors get hot enough to smoke, so I would guess the resistance wire would get hot also.

On your valve lash, all you have to do it turn the engine over till it's on TDC #1 cylinder. Loosen the bolts for the rockers on #1, grab the pushrod and move it up and down with your hand while slowly turning the bolt down. When you just get all the play out of the pushrod stop. Look at your ratchet, and then turn it around counting the turns till the bolt stops. You should get 3/4 to 1 turn out of it before it stops. This is the amount you are pushing the lifter plunger down into the lifter. If it's much over 1 turn, then you are pushing the plunger down too far, and you can use a shim under the rocker pedestal.

If it's less than 3/4 or you never get the slop out before the bolt stops, then you are not pushing the plunger down in the lifter far enough, and you need a longer pushrod.

Turn the engine around till the next cylinder in the firing order comes up, and you can then check that cylinder and it's two valves.