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Someone walk me through e-fuel

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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 09:34 PM
  #1  
southtexasidi's Avatar
southtexasidi
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Someone walk me through e-fuel

Well my mechanical fuel pump is only showing 3.5 psi...this is the 3rd weak pump iv had in the last year. It's getting really old having to replace crappy fuel pumps. Iv been reading about e-fuel conversions lately and have been planning on it for a while, but iv read so many different opinions and ideas I'm confused. SO, if anyone has any opinions on the best way to do it share them please

Today I put a 33 gallon bronco fuel tank in my truck, I wanted I do that to do away with the fuel selector and all the extra lines. More stuff I don't want to deal with...so my idea is to run a good electric fuel pump under the truck, then to a fuel filter setup also under the truck. I want to eleminate the filter housing from under the good for when I install an intercooler. I need help on choosing a good fuel pump and filter setup. Anyone have any opinions on which pump is best and where I can get one from?? I figure ill use a dual fuel filter set up from a piece of equipment...iv been eyeballin some stuff at work lol
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 10:15 PM
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Step 1 buy it, step 2 install, step 3 drive it

haha, Mine is like racins and NMB2, in fact mine is NMB2's. just need a couple of filter heads a pump, regulator and some fuel line. Mine is a quick fuel regulator with a SD fuel pump. Dont use stainless fuel line, stuff is so hard you cant flare it.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 10:50 PM
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I just finished my e-pump install a couple of days ago. I got a pump form a member here named Genlightning. Quality pump for a great price. Mine is also mounted on the frame rail underneath my van and I ran new fuel line up to the filter housing. I haven't really looked at it, but is there a reason why you couldn't mount the stock filter housing to the frame rail under the truck? Then you just need 12 volt relay. Pull power from a constant 12 volt power source. I used the post on my starter with a fusible link. Then a 12 volt key on/run source to close the relay. I used a source in my fuse panel, but many use the FSS. Pretty simple over all. If you have any specific questions shoot me a PM.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 12:14 AM
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Im in the process of doing mine currently. I am using the carter p4070, frame mounted it just past the fuel selector valve. Wired up a relay and plan to run a fuel pressure gauge to monitor it.
the carter pump is set for 6psi and 72gph free flow. should be good for most application
Rob
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 12:47 AM
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Ya wiring it up is the hardest part. I knew i was going to be adding some goodies to it so i installed a aux. fusebox from a 90 sploder, long and slim so its easy to fit in next to the original, just have to "massage" the cruise control bracket a bit.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 01:38 AM
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Seems like I remember there were some pretty strong opinions about the best brand/model of pump to use... But thread searching via phone is a pain and I can't find it. Is that carter model "the one" everybody's using? What about the two filters, what micron rating are they?

I don't mean to hijack, but how does e-fuel compare dependability wise to a mechanical pump? I tend to shy away from electronic "upgrades" but I am considering an exception here if the dependability is comparable.

southtexasidi, what fuel sender are you using with your bronco tank? I got one (a bronco tank) but it's out of an 87 so the fuel gage in my Gen 7 truck won't work right. My tank has the smaller sending unit opening... just wondering what year/style of bronco sending unit you have and if its working correctly with your Gen 7 fuel gage. Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 01:43 AM
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My two filter are a 30mic water seperator and a 2 micron secondary. Compared to the junk replacement mech pump for once im actually siding with electric... even though i hate the stupid things. I opted for the super duty pump since its an OE piece and you dont seem to ever hear about problems with them.

"the one" is the facet duralift you speak of... just my .02 but i would run the Mr.Gasket green before the duralift.

The carter pump is a universal inline pump afaik, good for gas and diesel.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 02:02 AM
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Ford F834's Avatar
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Hmmmm, I dunno then... one of my co-workers has a 6.0L SD, and the e-fuel pump is the one thing that has crapped on him... twice. Why the bias against the facet duralift? Either way this is one of those things where I just don't think I'll be happy unless I carry a spare under the seat. I go to some pretty remote destinations and the thought of loosing an E-pump out there does not thrill me... at all.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 05:54 AM
  #9  
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That is why I would use the mechanical original one. It never brakes sudenly and inside is only rubber diaphragm that can be changed, on european cars of course never seen the idi one. What it can do is leaking diesel in the oil when broken. And u find it our when checking oil, raising gradually, thinning the oil. Guys u have all mechanical IDI and u are wiring more electric stuff, all electric things are more likely to stop working suddenly and u are f.... Use the power of mechanics, if everything else correctly works, or at least mine works on cars 60 years old still original ones. They dont like staying dry, so when fuel in it works and works. My opinion.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 08:42 AM
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Sorry OP, I wasn't trying to turn this into a " whether or not to e-fuel" thread. I am looking at doing it for a lot of the same reasons, IC pipe clearance better filtration... but what is the performance symptom of low lift pressure? If 3.5 is weak, what is ideal? One of my co-workers put a high output (120 gph?) mechanical pump on his 429 gasser, with a pressure regulator. Would be nice if we had such an option, or could mod one. But like I said, I will probably end up with 2 e-pumps... One by the tank and one under the seat NIB.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:18 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
"the one" is the facet duralift you speak of... just my .02 but i would run the Mr.Gasket green before the duralift.
Why is this? Just wondering because I have always heard good things about the Facet pump as far as performance and durability. Mine is basically this pump, just a different brand I got from GenLightning on here.
On the Mr Gasket I have hear nothing but bad things.

As far as it going out, that is a possibility. With mine mounted on the frame rail I can easily access it and change it out in about 15 minutes if needed. I found the mechanical pump to be more difficult to get at and change. The mechanical is a little less expensive, but then you are also more susceptible to air intrusions etc.

I may think about getting an extra one to have on hand.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:21 AM
  #12  
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F834, the tank I used was for a 80-91 I think, and the sender is for a 88 bronco. I'm going to check the empty/full ohms today and buy an isspro fuel gauge for it. I'm already doing a custom gauge cluster with all isspro ev2's anyway so I figured now would be a good time to put the tank in.

Thanks for the input guys, so far I like the idea I the SD fuel pump, sply so I can go o any parts house and buy one. Question though, iv read about guys doing a regulated return...is this nessecary?? And what's the point? I was confused about that.

And I understand the argument between e-fuel and mechanical...I would just like to get away from them, my expirence with mech pumps isn't good lol that and like stated above, there are a few other reasons...the performance aspect of e-fuel, and the relocation of the filter assembly. And I think it would be cool to be able to adjust fuel pressure with the regulator, to fine tune my engine if that makes sense
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:11 PM
  #13  
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i did run a mr gasket before i ran a duralift.........it uh....was junk lol

Originally Posted by jayro88
Why is this? Just wondering because I have always heard good things about the Facet pump as far as performance and durability. Mine is basically this pump, just a different brand I got from GenLightning on here.
On the Mr Gasket I have hear nothing but bad things.

As far as it going out, that is a possibility. With mine mounted on the frame rail I can easily access it and change it out in about 15 minutes if needed. I found the mechanical pump to be more difficult to get at and change. The mechanical is a little less expensive, but then you are also more susceptible to air intrusions etc.

I may think about getting an extra one to have on hand.
don't bother buying an extra.that dura lift you installed will be running like new still and taken off before you scrap the truck years down the road.it'll provide more than enough fuel to your ip than you could ever think of burning with your idi.
them mr gaskets don't last.iv been there done that.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:19 PM
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The duralift is fine for durability im sure, problem is it barely moves more fuel than the stock mechanical. Plenty of reports of guys with 0psi with 90cc pumps. Ive also heard the pressure falls off pretty bad as you demand more fuel. For instance, its rated at 30 or 35gph i believe. So at 0gph it is at 7psi at 10gph its at 5 at 20gph its at 3 at 30gph its at 1.

When i talked to the guy at the parts store about the superduty pump (99-03 7.3) he said hes never sold one before, works for me. Its a Bosch roller-vane pump so as long as the fuel going in is clean it should last forever.

More on the mech pump-- The originals seem to last 100-250k, problem is the replacements are pure ****. The original on my 92 died at 230k its replacement at 240k I installed guages at 245k and the mech pump was bouncing between 1-3.5 psi would read 0 at 3/4 throttle with a stock pump. That is why i went e-fuel, not to mention that is the only way to get the fuel i need for the IP im getting.

Optimum fuel pressure is 6psi i have heard from a couple sources.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 01:16 AM
  #15  
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Carter p4070, Relayed and prefiltered..... I got 8 psi at idle and 5 at wot, Been on for a couple years never a problem... You'll have a hard time finding anyone reporting failures of these.
 
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