problems removing turbo
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2013
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problems removing turbo
So i went out today to remove my turbo so i could do a EBPV delete and got everything off but couldnt get the two clamps off that hold the downpipe and the up pipes on....got them all the way loose but couldn't get them to come apart like they were seased to the metel,even with a hammer and a screwdriver i couldnt get them apart. Anyone ever had this problem before? Only thing i could think to do is to order the two clamps and cut them off with a cut off wheel.....its a 2000 f350 dually with 247 thousand miles on it and i know none of the parts have ever been off the truck befor. ..was ccompletely stock when i got the truck and in great shape and never beat on so i had to buy it, hot it for only $5000....any help would be great thanks guys
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 368
Likes: 3
From: Longview Tx
I fill your pain brother soak them in penatrating oil and let soak for a while. Then tap them with a hammer where ever you can get the hammer on them may have to reaply penatrating oil and usually they will come off. Sometimes those can be a real bear to get off. I would probably get the new clamps but I wouldn't be so quick to cut on the old ones as they may still be stuck after all the hard work. Good luck
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Greenville, PA
Yea penetrating oil is your friend... when I did it I was able to get a chisel under one edge and a tap caused the one to pop, the other one took a long time and frustration. I feel your pain.
Even cutting part of the clamp, they can still be seized on so wont release
Even cutting part of the clamp, they can still be seized on so wont release
stinson 108-1
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,015
Likes: 7
From: south jersey
X2 what was said above. If you cut them, the cutoff wheel may cut slots into the flanges causing a leak. They will come off. New ones might be a good idea any way if you bend them. Consider bellowed up pipes to. You may find sooting around the collector when you get it off, even though none is visable now. Its worth the extra bucks and a few more hours work. You'll be doing it anyway sooner rather than later with 247k. Mine had small leaks begining at about 90k.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
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From: Arizona
penetrating oil like the others said and another trick I used is to take a very small screwdriver and work it in longways into one of the ends right by the separation at the clamp. You can't really see it, just have to feel around for it while laying on the engine or top side creeper.
stinson 108-1
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,015
Likes: 7
From: south jersey
Jim.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 1
From: Montana
my clamps had three V sections that are attached to the strap clamp part.
so you dont have just get one that is pinching the joint together. you might have three. (hope that makes sense)
I had to buy two new ones cause the bolt broke or stripped taking them off.
and yes they are a pain. I had trouble even with sitting behind the motor with them right in front of me. (i have a van)
I just used a hammer and screw driver. although I did have a hard reach on the one from the turbo going fwd cause its a reach as you are feeling with your back ones.
so you dont have just get one that is pinching the joint together. you might have three. (hope that makes sense)
I had to buy two new ones cause the bolt broke or stripped taking them off.
and yes they are a pain. I had trouble even with sitting behind the motor with them right in front of me. (i have a van)
I just used a hammer and screw driver. although I did have a hard reach on the one from the turbo going fwd cause its a reach as you are feeling with your back ones.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 9,359
Likes: 1
From: Hampstead, NC
As far as the clamps go, a combo of long pry bars/screwdrivers and hammer work wonders. I have also used a slide hammer with a hook attachment to help with removal of the clamp at the back of the turbo.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 3
From: West of Chicago
When CrewCabTurbo and I did my EBPV delete it took us almost 2 hours to get the clamp off! I have since ordered new clamps for when I re-build my turbo. Just give everything a good soak and they will come off.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 134
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[quote=Ford79;13445496]IMO, I would just buy the Dorman up pipes and be done with it. They are less than half the cost of the International version and work just as well. Again, this is my opinion as someone who has installed both versions.
Sorry to hijack the thread but how is the quality of the Dorman up pipes vs the International ones? Any real difference in fit or quality?
Sorry to hijack the thread but how is the quality of the Dorman up pipes vs the International ones? Any real difference in fit or quality?
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
I have the Dorman's. No issues with mine after install. Working great....during install, make sure to assemble the up pipes to the collector and run the bolts all the way in (4 of them). The Chinese ladies sometimes fail to tap the collector deep enough and the bolts won't seat all the way. 2 minutes on the grinder shortening the bolts, and the problem is solved. I had to shorten one of mine. Well worth the $200+ savings.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
[QUOTE=Andy's Beast;13446046]
There is a very obvious difference in quality. The casting on the set I have here looks like swiss cheese compared to Int'l or Ford quality. I chose not to put them on, but I'd make you a good deal on them if I've waited to long to send them back!
With the T4 set-up, I never have to fool with the PITA 'babies butt' again!!!
Cost for T4/S366 comparable to 'good', coated bellowed up-pipes and a 38R - but the options for future turbo upgrades are unlimited (and the S366 is rebuildable, not 'disposable' like 38R...
You may have more success replacing the stock up-pipes and donuts at the same time. The old pipes are fatigued where the donuts seal and often folks have leaks again shortly after just replacing donuts (even the bigger GM option). They aren't expensive and could last as long as what ya have now lasted!
2001 FORD F-250 SUPER DUTY Parts - AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake Parts (previously Tousley Ford Parts)
With the T4 set-up, I never have to fool with the PITA 'babies butt' again!!!
Cost for T4/S366 comparable to 'good', coated bellowed up-pipes and a 38R - but the options for future turbo upgrades are unlimited (and the S366 is rebuildable, not 'disposable' like 38R...You may have more success replacing the stock up-pipes and donuts at the same time. The old pipes are fatigued where the donuts seal and often folks have leaks again shortly after just replacing donuts (even the bigger GM option). They aren't expensive and could last as long as what ya have now lasted!
2001 FORD F-250 SUPER DUTY Parts - AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake Parts (previously Tousley Ford Parts)
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 9,359
Likes: 1
From: Hampstead, NC
[QUOTE=Andy's Beast;13446046]
I didn't notice any difference, other than price. They fit great and haven't leaked yet. The Dorman pipes were installed on a customer vehicle, they weren't an option when I did mine.
I just trimmed all 4 bolts a 1/4 inch shorter, no issues with installation after that.
IMO, I would just buy the Dorman up pipes and be done with it. They are less than half the cost of the International version and work just as well. Again, this is my opinion as someone who has installed both versions.
Sorry to hijack the thread but how is the quality of the Dorman up pipes vs the International ones? Any real difference in fit or quality?
Sorry to hijack the thread but how is the quality of the Dorman up pipes vs the International ones? Any real difference in fit or quality?
I have the Dorman's. No issues with mine after install. Working great....during install, make sure to assemble the up pipes to the collector and run the bolts all the way in (4 of them). The Chinese ladies sometimes fail to tap the collector deep enough and the bolts won't seat all the way. 2 minutes on the grinder shortening the bolts, and the problem is solved. I had to shorten one of mine. Well worth the $200+ savings.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
I have now seen 3 sets of IH pipes and installed them.
In my honest opinion...
The Dorman pipes were easier to work with.
I had seen a few sets before the set that i just put on TXtinct...
As a machinist... where quality control & metal are my job... i have no issues with casting quality. Look at the machined faces... no pitting.
The bolts fit perfectly on the set i just put in. Maybe the lady at the tap station on the line got enough complaints from yankee round eye?
Oh and thats Bush's fault too...
In my honest opinion...
The Dorman pipes were easier to work with.
I had seen a few sets before the set that i just put on TXtinct...
As a machinist... where quality control & metal are my job... i have no issues with casting quality. Look at the machined faces... no pitting.
The bolts fit perfectly on the set i just put in. Maybe the lady at the tap station on the line got enough complaints from yankee round eye?
Oh and thats Bush's fault too...