What did we do without YouTube? I just watched how to change the oil on the 6.0, it is strange to see an oil filter on top of the engine. I will purchase a Motorcraft oil filter and new cap from the local stealership and complete this task probably before the weekend. I am planning to use the Rotella T6 full synthetic oil, is this only good for 5K miles or should I be able to go to at least 7K before the next change?

I read were some people were using Royal Purple in the transfer case and differentials, any thoughts on this?

This weekend all the fluids will be changed, Transmission, transfer case, engine oil, maybe even the radiator coolant. Any and all recommendations to the type of fluid replacement will be appreciated. I will look for other threads for instructions and guidance, but that is also appreciated.

Jeff

 

If the fuel bowl is anything like a 7.3 then you wont get sprayed cause there is no fuel pressure on the system. Drain the fuel bowl first before loosening the cap to prevent fuel from spilling on top of the eng. The fuel bowl should purge the air when you crank it up. Now im writing all this thinking its the same type of function the 7.3 has. Someone will chime in and correct me if im wrong since I dont own a 6.0

 

eh, if yer changing at 5k..you can save a fortune and use the regular rotellaT triple

autozone carries it for 65 bucks for a 5gallon jug, with their usual 2% off coupons, its just over 50 or so.

 

still looks exactly like mine...with the 35/36/whatever mm bolt molded into the top of it.

had a motorcraft filter inside it (it clips to the top, vs being permanent)...and it swapped in and out for a new one just fine.

yes it feels plastic to me.

 

I just watched a YouTube video on EGR delete and Oil Cooler replacement, it was a lot more involved than I anticipated. I guess I will wait till it cools off a little around here and complete this portion. For now, I will just stick with the routine maintenance and non-engine repairs, unless I absolutely have to.

Jeff

 

It's for sure plastic. Yours must be different than my 2005. I'm only mentioning it because that is what the previous owner of my Ex had done. The stock cap is not as tall, and is a bit thicker plastic. I thought I was good to go until I noticed the difference in hight in some of the pics on this forum. Hopefully you don't have to buy a new cap, they cost $26!! The ford filter will fit under the aftermarket cap, but doesn't seal, and the oil will bypass the filter element.

 

eh, it clipped in "snugly" as did the one I took out when replacing it just last week.

looks just like this

2003-2007 Ford F250 Super Duty Oil Filter Housing Cap - Engine Mechanical - Dorman 03-07 F250 Super Duty Oil Filter Housing Cap - 5341-07017426 - PartsGeek

 

ok now I think I see what you guys are saying looks different....with the oem one there are flat sides right above the thread where it screws into the engine (like if you were going to put a large oil filter wrench on it).

vs the aftermarket one that is completely smooth on the sides all the way down to the threads.

yall must have some crazy good eyes...as I cant tell from the pics he posted if it has those lugs on it or not.

 

The stock oil cap is just a lot shorter.

 

Do a lot of reading about the torqshift transmission that comes with the 6.0l PSD before you flush and evaluate if you really want to do it yourself. As you read, be really careful to make sure you're not reading about the V10 gasoline transmission. They are totally different and the fluid change instructions for the V10 do not apply to the diesel transmission. In a nutshell, if you just drain the fluid, you'll get something like half of it drained. The rest will stay in various parts of the system. There are some really complicated and messy DIY ways of getting all the fluid out of the torqshift transmission (bizarre and slightly dangerous things like putting the new fluid in the oven first to heat it up!) but the only way to truly flush 100% of the fluid out of the transmission is with a heated fluid flush (it has to heated). I'm pretty sure the dealer is the only entity that can do something like that.

For me, I think I'm going to drain what I can, measure how much drained, top it off with new fluid, and do that same procedure in about 15k miles. The idea is that after a number of these you'll end up with pretty good fluid in the transmission.

Or if your wallet can handle it, go and pay the dealer a few hundred to flush it for you.

 

Yep you're right. Do the fuel filter under the car along the driver's side frame rail first, curse a lot at all the diesel running all down the frame rail and dripping out at various points, mostly going down your sleeve and all over you. Stand up while it finishes draining and admire the diesel smell and stain on your driveway. Wonder for a bit how Ford could ever have designed it this way. Then get back under the car, of course now LAYING in more diesel and put in the new filter. Then marvel at how easy the one under the hood is to replace.

 

i remember when mine looked that clean ... ( damn kids)

 

Glad I'm not the only one, I thought I may have been doing it wrong. Sounds like I did it just right, based on your write up!

 

Hint to replace the lower fuel filter:
Use heavy duty ramps, one on front and the other on rear driver's side tires. Get the upgraded hfcm brass knurled plug (just googgle it) makes it easy to remove using your fingers and you won't strip the hex hole

Get an empty mayo or peanut butter clear plastic "jar" to drain into. Lets you see any water or dirt you had, since water sinks in diesel.

On the oil and fuel caps
Use a big wrench or 36mm socket! Do NOT use the 1/2 drive square hole! It is there only so you crack your cap and must buy another!

Welcome to fte and the excursion club.

 

Ok, I was able to get a stock replacement oil filter cap, this one is much shorter than the one currently in place.

This weekend I will be changing all of the fluids except the coolant and transmission. I will be an EGR delete later this fall and will replace the coolant at that time. I will be installing a coolant filter this weekend so I am not completely neglecting it. I am taking the X to the dealership in the next two weeks to have them completely flush the transmission and replace the filter. I did purchase nothing but Motorcraft filters so no worries there. I will be using Rotella 5W-40 T6 motor oil, Royal Purple synthetic ATF for the power steering pump and transfer case, Royal Purple 75W-140 synthetic for the rear diff and will replace the front diff when I repair the front axle leak.

I was going to purchase a new air filter but it was listed at $75 and it was the plastic case and filter. Is this the only way to get this item or can I buy just the filter?

Thanks,
Jeff